New S60 owner - Page 2

Bonefishblues · Dec 29th, 2017, 15:58

Quote:

Originally Posted by izools

Are you sure that wasn't the 650?

Pretty sure yes. 650 was oe on sport and s specs.

Bonefishblues · Dec 29th, 2017, 19:48

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bonefishblues

Pretty sure yes. 650 was oe on sport and s specs.

ETA
Yes, completely sure, having checked now I'm back home:

https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/press/v...lprod_spec.pdf

You'll see that the 13-speaker system I mentioned was standard on SE Lux, and could be ordered as an upgrade on SE models, and came with a 75W amp vs the 850's 50W standard unit.

650 was standard on the other models - Sport and S

I have a mind that collects and stores ephemera, I'm afraid.

oragex · Dec 29th, 2017, 21:28

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dazza95

Things already on the to do list are a set of Michelin Cross Climates to replace the mixed junk on the car, I can never understand why people skimp on tyres!

That in my book reads poor maintenance and in particular cheap parts used. Not the best thing to hear. As others mentioned, if the timing belt was replaced along with the water pump, a very close inspection is needed. The D5 are also very prone to serpentine belt failure - usually due to a seized a/c compressor pulley which needs a new bearing - with the belt wrapping around the crank pulley and putting an end to the engine. Quite a few unlucky D5 owners got this.

Best tip with these cars is to always use the recommended brands when replacing parts.

But enjoy the new purchase and welcome to the forum!

Dazza95 · Dec 30th, 2017, 13:27

I've not long got back from picking it up; it was about a 60 mile drive so gave me a great opportunity to properly test the car. It was a lovely drive, very smooth and comfortable and I do like the noise of the engine. Oh and the tyres are Firestone so not 'mixed junk' as I said before (must have got confused with another vehicle I viewed on the same day), still not amazing on the wet country roads here though so I'll still be replacing them soon.

I am trying to get it booked in to a garage next week for a service and to check the items mentioned on this thread, I'm not one to skimp on maintenance so I will make sure any work that is required is completed promptly.

One last thing, I have access to Shell oils via a company fuel card, I have checked the manual but could I just check that Shell Helix Ultra 0w-30 A5/B5 is the right stuff to use?

https://www.shell.co.uk/motorist/oil...-b5-0w-30.html

Thanks all for the warm welcome

Georgeandkira · Dec 30th, 2017, 15:10

I believe that Shell oil selection is pretty near perfect.

There always will be some boutique oil which is better than anything you pick.
Sarcastic meanies like me refer to the magic oils freaks seek as "unicorn tears".

The ACEA A3,B3 rated oils were the "cat's meow" for turbocharged engines.

The A5,B5 oils do the job even better. They are suited for the longer diesel service intervals.

You chose wisely.

ADDITIONALLY: How much depth is left on those Firestones?

john493 · Dec 30th, 2017, 15:23

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dazza95

I've not long got back from picking it up; it was about a 60 mile drive so gave me a great opportunity to properly test the car. It was a lovely drive, very smooth and comfortable and I do like the noise of the engine. Oh and the tyres are Firestone so not 'mixed junk' as I said before (must have got confused with another vehicle I viewed on the same day), still not amazing on the wet country roads here though so I'll still be replacing them soon.

I am trying to get it booked in to a garage next week for a service and to check the items mentioned on this thread, I'm not one to skimp on maintenance so I will make sure any work that is required is completed promptly.

One last thing, I have access to Shell oils via a company fuel card, I have checked the manual but could I just check that Shell Helix Ultra 0w-30 A5/B5 is the right stuff to use?

https://www.shell.co.uk/motorist/oil...-b5-0w-30.html

Thanks all for the warm welcome

Be aware of the revised engine oil level on the euro 4 diesel - max is 5.7 litres not 6.2 litres as originally specified. That equals "three xxx" below the full mark on your dipstick. If it's been overfilled (as many have) suck it out through the dipstick hole.

Dazza95 · Jan 2nd, 2018, 17:26

Took the car to the garage today for a full service, a few items need attention so I have the left the car with them for the week to get the work completed.

The rear handbrake brake shoes are the incorrect type (apparently meant for the old V70) so are being replaced along with the discs, the top engine mount has a lot of play so that's being changed, the front wishbone arms and bushes are worn so are also being replaced, finally, a spring insulator has come away on a front spring so that will be changed and I have also asked for a new aux belt to be fitted. I have a complete new set of tyres being fitted next Saturday too.
I know this may seem like a lot of work but givent the age and mileage of the car and what I paid for it, I don't think it is unreasonable.

Looking forward to having it back to see if it feels any different!

Dazza95 · Jan 7th, 2018, 19:09

Got the car back yesterday; the handbrake certainly feels much better and the car doesn't seem to crank as much on starting which might just be because its had a full service with all filters changed. I expect the new rear brakes will need some time to properly bed in. I have some peace of mind now that the aux belt has been changed.

However, I have noticed another issue which I think is a faulty thermostat - driving yesterday when it was no more than 3ºc outside (first time its been this cold since getting the car), it took at least 10 miles at 70mph for the engine temperature to reach the halfway point on the gauge, as soon as I came off the dual carriageway into a 30mph zone, the temperature dropped to the mark just below half way and when idling it dropped even more.

Looking under the bonnet today to investigate, I noticed 3 things:

1. The top hose to the radiator becomes warm within a few minutes of starting
2. The cooling fan runs continuously even with the air conditioning switched off.
3. The coolant is pink, I understand the genuine Volvo stuff is green/blue?

The cabin heating works OK but only just, I know it should be able to get much hotter.

Anyway, clearly this needs sorting so I intend on carrying out a coolant flush and replacing the thermostat unit. Would anyone be able to confirm if this is the correct part please?

http://www.partsforvolvosonline.com/...84d69b9e216f97

I have watched this excellent video on Youtube for information on the coolant flush:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CMkRdCUAlks

A little nervous about removing the power steering pump to fit the new thermostat but I will give myself loads of time and take things slow.

Apologies if I should be starting a new thread but I thought I'd keep everything about my recent purchase on here as I work through the issues.

Georgeandkira · Jan 7th, 2018, 19:57

The new part (make sure you get the gasket with it) has a new sensor so you may remedy the "ever running fan".

I'm not an expert but pink coolant is found in some Volkswagens. It may be compatible. It may not be.
It's just good you're going to give the system a thorough flush. Use Volvo coolant.

On petrol models the power steering pump is held in place by bolts which are accessible through the pump's pulley. I don't believe you need to disconnect any hoses.

Coolant flushing and stat replacement is a calm, easy paced job. Have something like "Scotch-Brite" abrasive pads ready to clean the gasket surface. You don't want to gouge an aluminum mating surface with a steel tool.

As you see the coolant becoming clearer you may want to add a dose of cleaner. This will merely add a few rounds of rinsing. There may be crud in the heater core.

It'll feel good to get that job done.

People claim there aren't enough dissolved chemicals in most water supplies to warrant buying distilled. The well water so many of us use here is LOADED with chemicals. We call it "liquid rock".
When the coolant involved is Dex-Cool (bright orange) or pale blue Asian formula, hard water makes the final mixture cloudy. You don't want that after a day of rinsing and purging.
Distilled costs $0.88 to $1 per gallon here.

Volvo coolant might still be dark blue. A year ago the Volvo guy who topped me off said "they're going to green lately" (whatever that means) and the coolant in my car is a pale transparent green.
I had the thought that older Volvo blue coolant was mixed with G-05 (a common gold coolant) resulting in the green color I have.

Do resurrect this thread when you've finished and tell us what color YOUR NEW Volvo coolant is.

oragex · Jan 8th, 2018, 14:34

I beleve the thermostat for the D5 engine is sold separately on Ebay, the TH35991 (check for compatibility) so you don't need to remove the whole housing, just split yours open, place it correctly with the burping pin up and use a new gasket

Dec 30th, 2017, 15:10	#15
Georgeandkira Premier Member Last Online: Apr 25th, 2024 14:34 Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Hackensack	I believe that Shell oil selection is pretty near perfect. There always will be some boutique oil which is better than anything you pick. Sarcastic meanies like me refer to the magic oils freaks seek as "unicorn tears". The ACEA A3,B3 rated oils were the "cat's meow" for turbocharged engines. The A5,B5 oils do the job even better. They are suited for the longer diesel service intervals. You chose wisely. ADDITIONALLY: How much depth is left on those Firestones? Last edited by Georgeandkira; Dec 30th, 2017 at 15:13. Reason: removal of foul language

Jan 8th, 2018, 14:34	#20
oragex Premier Member Last Online: Jul 26th, 2021 21:24 Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Coldnada	I beleve the thermostat for the D5 engine is sold separately on Ebay, the TH35991 (check for compatibility) so you don't need to remove the whole housing, just split yours open, place it correctly with the burping pin up and use a new gasket __________________ Several Volvo Repair Videos https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...ECTts0FSVSOT_c

Dec 30th, 2017, 13:27	#14
Dazza95 Junior Member Last Online: Yesterday 09:29 Join Date: Dec 2017 Location: Shropshire	I've not long got back from picking it up; it was about a 60 mile drive so gave me a great opportunity to properly test the car. It was a lovely drive, very smooth and comfortable and I do like the noise of the engine. Oh and the tyres are Firestone so not 'mixed junk' as I said before (must have got confused with another vehicle I viewed on the same day), still not amazing on the wet country roads here though so I'll still be replacing them soon. I am trying to get it booked in to a garage next week for a service and to check the items mentioned on this thread, I'm not one to skimp on maintenance so I will make sure any work that is required is completed promptly. One last thing, I have access to Shell oils via a company fuel card, I have checked the manual but could I just check that Shell Helix Ultra 0w-30 A5/B5 is the right stuff to use? https://www.shell.co.uk/motorist/oil...-b5-0w-30.html Thanks all for the warm welcome

Jan 2nd, 2018, 17:26	#17
Dazza95 Junior Member Last Online: Yesterday 09:29 Join Date: Dec 2017 Location: Shropshire	Took the car to the garage today for a full service, a few items need attention so I have the left the car with them for the week to get the work completed. The rear handbrake brake shoes are the incorrect type (apparently meant for the old V70) so are being replaced along with the discs, the top engine mount has a lot of play so that's being changed, the front wishbone arms and bushes are worn so are also being replaced, finally, a spring insulator has come away on a front spring so that will be changed and I have also asked for a new aux belt to be fitted. I have a complete new set of tyres being fitted next Saturday too. I know this may seem like a lot of work but givent the age and mileage of the car and what I paid for it, I don't think it is unreasonable. Looking forward to having it back to see if it feels any different!

Jan 7th, 2018, 19:09	#18
Dazza95 Junior Member Last Online: Yesterday 09:29 Join Date: Dec 2017 Location: Shropshire	Got the car back yesterday; the handbrake certainly feels much better and the car doesn't seem to crank as much on starting which might just be because its had a full service with all filters changed. I expect the new rear brakes will need some time to properly bed in. I have some peace of mind now that the aux belt has been changed. However, I have noticed another issue which I think is a faulty thermostat - driving yesterday when it was no more than 3ºc outside (first time its been this cold since getting the car), it took at least 10 miles at 70mph for the engine temperature to reach the halfway point on the gauge, as soon as I came off the dual carriageway into a 30mph zone, the temperature dropped to the mark just below half way and when idling it dropped even more. Looking under the bonnet today to investigate, I noticed 3 things: 1. The top hose to the radiator becomes warm within a few minutes of starting 2. The cooling fan runs continuously even with the air conditioning switched off. 3. The coolant is pink, I understand the genuine Volvo stuff is green/blue? The cabin heating works OK but only just, I know it should be able to get much hotter. Anyway, clearly this needs sorting so I intend on carrying out a coolant flush and replacing the thermostat unit. Would anyone be able to confirm if this is the correct part please? http://www.partsforvolvosonline.com/...84d69b9e216f97 I have watched this excellent video on Youtube for information on the coolant flush: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CMkRdCUAlks A little nervous about removing the power steering pump to fit the new thermostat but I will give myself loads of time and take things slow. Apologies if I should be starting a new thread but I thought I'd keep everything about my recent purchase on here as I work through the issues.

Jan 7th, 2018, 19:57	#19
Georgeandkira Premier Member Last Online: Apr 25th, 2024 14:34 Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Hackensack	The new part (make sure you get the gasket with it) has a new sensor so you may remedy the "ever running fan". I'm not an expert but pink coolant is found in some Volkswagens. It may be compatible. It may not be. It's just good you're going to give the system a thorough flush. Use Volvo coolant. On petrol models the power steering pump is held in place by bolts which are accessible through the pump's pulley. I don't believe you need to disconnect any hoses. Coolant flushing and stat replacement is a calm, easy paced job. Have something like "Scotch-Brite" abrasive pads ready to clean the gasket surface. You don't want to gouge an aluminum mating surface with a steel tool. As you see the coolant becoming clearer you may want to add a dose of cleaner. This will merely add a few rounds of rinsing. There may be crud in the heater core. It'll feel good to get that job done. People claim there aren't enough dissolved chemicals in most water supplies to warrant buying distilled. The well water so many of us use here is LOADED with chemicals. We call it "liquid rock". When the coolant involved is Dex-Cool (bright orange) or pale blue Asian formula, hard water makes the final mixture cloudy. You don't want that after a day of rinsing and purging. Distilled costs $0.88 to $1 per gallon here. Volvo coolant might still be dark blue. A year ago the Volvo guy who topped me off said "they're going to green lately" (whatever that means) and the coolant in my car is a pale transparent green. I had the thought that older Volvo blue coolant was mixed with G-05 (a common gold coolant) resulting in the green color I have. Do resurrect this thread when you've finished and tell us what color YOUR NEW Volvo coolant is.

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