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PV, 120 (Amazon), 1800 General Forum for the Volvo PV, 120 and 1800 cars |
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Volvo PV444 wins 1957 Petit Lemans at Lime Rock!Views : 86281 Replies : 281Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Jun 17th, 2020, 17:45 | #191 |
arcturus
Last Online: Yesterday 07:31
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Location: Sagres Portugal
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If you keep the car in a garage get one of these,after you have sorted the problem.
https://www.waveinn.com/loja-nautica...E&gclsrc=aw.ds
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Jun 22nd, 2020, 22:37 | #192 |
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Very nice summer weather, so I've driven the Volvo to work a few days during the past two weeks. It is only 3/4 of a mile - and the way to work is almost completely downhill, so mostly at idle.
I've noticed that the car doesn't want start after a few trips; and I've needed to resort to charging the battery. At first, I thought the control box / regulator needed adjustment, but that doesn't look to be a DIY. Then I thought that maybe I should change the size of the pulley on the generator so that it spins faster at slow speed - and that may still be an option. But then I thought the battery might be old and not holding a charge. I found a receipt indicating that the battery is only 13 years old, so just getting broken in. And by multi-meter, it seems to hold a charge over several days, anyway. Today, I drove for 4 miles to put the car in storage. After parking for a few minutes, to move another car, I was unable to start the Volvo. Weak crank. Fortunately, I had a few tools and pulled the battery terminal connections and scraped with a screwdriver for some shiny surfaces. Made a significant difference and I was able to start the car and move on. Can it just be slightly dirty (more tarnish than dirt) terminals? I'll clean them better and see. |
Jun 23rd, 2020, 08:56 | #193 |
arcturus
Last Online: Yesterday 07:31
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Sagres Portugal
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Check terminal ground to chassis.At that age I think that the battery should be offered early retirement. Perhaps melted down and the lead given a new and useful life
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Jun 23rd, 2020, 22:21 | #194 |
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Join Date: May 2017
Location: New Milford, Connecticut
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I cleaned up the contacts on the engine to chassis ground wire several weeks ago.
The contacts weren't bad, and I may have cleaned them previously when I first bought the car. The chassis contact point, though, is a somewhat squarish protrusion that makes me think that the ground wire's end terminal should be U shaped to fit over the top and down the sides for a larger contact surface. I'm running an Optima Red Top maintenance free battery rated for 800 cold crank amps. It is an AGM (absorbent glass mat) battery, I think. While I may need to get a new battery, I'll first try cleaning the battery posts well and determining if that solves the problem. |
Jun 24th, 2020, 09:03 | #195 |
arcturus
Last Online: Yesterday 07:31
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Location: Sagres Portugal
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Are you talking about the ground connection on the bulkhead or the one on the underside of chassis?Is yours a six or twelve volt?
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Jun 24th, 2020, 12:46 | #196 |
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Last Online: Apr 23rd, 2024 15:48
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I'm referring to the one on the "frame". The ground at bulkhead is also clean. I'm running a 6 volt system.
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Jun 24th, 2020, 13:27 | #197 |
arcturus
Last Online: Yesterday 07:31
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Location: Sagres Portugal
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That should just be a metal earth strap from bellhouse/starter to a flat captured nut on frame. Check also the ground from dynamo to regulator. If all else fails I have spare 6V reg's since I converted to 12V
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Jun 25th, 2020, 14:16 | #198 |
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Thank you for the offer. Might be a bit of trouble shipping to the U.S. of A. though.
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Jun 25th, 2020, 15:33 | #199 |
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Last Online: Today 01:20
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Location: Connecticut, USA
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bo90;
Poor cranking is due to less than optimum voltage being available at Starter...and if Battery condition is good (Charged AND low internal resistance meaning Voltage does not collapse under high current drawn- on old Bats with sulfated plates, high internal R causes collapse of V under high load), then voltage drop is occurring elsewhere in the high current path...this can be ANY of the big cables involved, including Chassis Strap. To check, measure VBat under cranking load and compare to VSol...if there is more than 0.5V drop, locate with voltmeter and correct. If Battery V itself collapses, charge overnight from a line powered charger, and retry or have an automotive elec shop perform a load test. Good Hunting! |
Jul 23rd, 2020, 17:57 | #200 |
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The PV 444 got pushed to the back of the garage for the last few months.
In the interim, I've been on a quest for speed. I had the S2000 out to Watkins Glen last week and hope to be racing the MGA this weekend. Then in September, hope to do a couple of drives with the PV444. Here I'm at the Glen in the S2000 trying to keep up with some Spec Miatas. [YOUTUBE]https://youtu.be/tqCC3im2ysM [/YOUTUBE] |
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