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PV, 120 (Amazon), 1800 General Forum for the Volvo PV, 120 and 1800 cars |
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Choke leverViews : 2767 Replies : 23Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Feb 1st, 2018, 17:17 | #11 | |
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Quote:
The clip is part 666622 and I've got one winging its way to me (Skandix sell them but I used the Classic Volvo Restoration site - had a few hard to find bits off them before and they provide a pretty good service). |
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Mar 9th, 2018, 17:48 | #12 |
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Finally found the diagram.
Needs an iron but hopefully helpful to someone! https://photos.app.goo.gl/0Gbjt5cV4jY7rT0w1 |
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Mar 11th, 2018, 15:31 | #13 |
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I’ve quickly ironed it for you.
The problem is that this also seems to be for a LHD car (as was Ron’s picture earlier on - post #2). No good if you’re trying to figure it out for a RHD car. |
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Oct 17th, 2022, 01:59 | #14 |
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Choke cable sheathing
The previous owner apparently cut the black sheathing a bit short on one of the two cables under the dash so the inner metal cable slips in the clamp. What is a good way to repair the missing sheathing or can i remove it from the other one so the clamp has equal pressure on both? This is a 1965 Amazon. I will barb the clamp as Ron Kwass described in the SW-EM posting. Thanks
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Oct 17th, 2022, 14:28 | #15 |
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Choke cable sheathing
The black sheathing is cut short of the clamp under the dash on my amazon and the metal tube is slipping. This is on one cable the other is sheathed and works fine. Is there a good method to add a sheathing to equalize the clamp’s grip on the cable missing the sheathing? Can i remove the sheathing from the other cable and expect the clamp to grip the inner metal tubing tight enough? I considered adding electrical heat shrink tubing to the bare metal tube to add a sheathing layer?? Thanks for any thoughts.
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Oct 17th, 2022, 18:48 | #16 |
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Michael;
Choke (and Heater) Bowden Cables are known for slipping when a bit of corrosion on the center cable and inside surface of sheath increases friction, even when the rubber sheath is present!...so I can easily expect this is even more so an issue without the sheath... If the sheathless area is not too long and can be cut away (typically the cables are not so short that loss of an inch or so cannot easily be endured), that's what I'd do first, then barb the sheath clamps to assure that slipping is much less possible, if at all...another option if sheathless area is too long (made that way for reasons I can't even imagine!) is to replace sheath with multiple layers of heat-shrink tubing... ...and reassemble, after lubing inside sheath (graphite!), and adjust. Good Hunting! |
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Oct 18th, 2022, 14:07 | #17 |
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When I installed a new cable, the lack of friction led to the choke lever easing back into retracted position under engine vibration. Found that a nylon washer tightened things up a bit while still preserving smooth operation.
Cheers from Ohio, Chris |
Oct 18th, 2022, 15:51 | #18 |
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Chris;
When you replaced cables, did you notice if they were the newer type with a plastic inner liner (which seem the common replacement now)? This keeps operating friction more constant over a long service life, and prevents the long-term surface corrosion from causing so much internal friction that lubing becomes necessary. Cheers |
Oct 18th, 2022, 18:42 | #19 | |
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Quote:
Can't say I paid too much attention to the construction config, but since I bought them about three years ago I suspect they'd be the "newer type" cable. All I know is that the choke operates nice and smoothly; once I snugged up the bellcrank friction a bit with the nylon washer, it's been perfect for the past three years. Chris |
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Oct 19th, 2022, 02:41 | #20 |
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Choke cables
Ron, thanks for the info. I was trying to find the least messy way that works to literally pour the thinned grease. It seems the inner piano like wire is such a tight fit in the wire tube. My missing black sheath is under the dash near the clamp on only one cable. To put shrink tube on I slit it and put three layers around the wire tube then put the clamp on and heated it. The wire tube/coil still slides. Do you think it would work to remove the sheathing on the other wire to have the clamp gripping the same size tube, even though it would be the metal tube on both cables? The only way to possibly do a better installation of the shrink tube would be to slide them from the carb end all the way to the inside clamp and it would have to be large enough to slide over the black sheathing to start. A lot of effort if not a good result! Just like this is a lot of typing for a problem of this sort!
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