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XC90 '02–'15 General Forum for the P2-platform XC90 model |
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Dreaded core plug failure D5 2003Views : 3833 Replies : 10Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Mar 6th, 2014, 20:40 | #1 |
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Dreaded core plug failure D5 2003
Just got back from a long trip and see the back door is covered in engine mist, so I am presuming that the dreaded core plug behind the flywheel may have come out. Very luckily there is still oil in the engine thank goodness.
Can I take the auto box out without taking the engine as well, or is it better to take both out together, but being a much bigger job? If I can just take the auto box off the engine in situ, would I have to take the bevel box off first, as I need to do the coupling as well. Any pointers would be gratefully received please John |
Mar 6th, 2014, 21:16 | #2 |
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Have a check elsewhere first. I'm pretty certain if it was core plug - it's all or nothing and you'd have dumped all your oil.
Check it's not from the turbo pipes or intercooler/oil coolers. BUT if it's not had the core plug done before anyway - I wouldn't leave it long either.. |
Mar 7th, 2014, 16:56 | #3 |
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Oil is coming from the drain hole in the clutch housing. So I'm presuming that its the dreaded plug, really don't know why its let go now, as I have more than 260,000km on.
I think I will take the engine out and leave the gearbox in situ. This way I don't have to dismantle all the suspension as well. I was wondering how much gap is needed to move the engine to the right side from the gearbox, how much does the flex plate enter into the flywheel, has anybody done an engine out job who could help me here, or a picture of the flex plate spigot that goes into the flywheel? John |
Mar 10th, 2014, 02:16 | #4 |
Lets take it to bits
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When I replaced the rubber plug that fell out on my V70 AWD D5 , I undid the prop and driveshafts , then took the whole lot out the top.
Not sure about XC90 , but my XC90 seemed to have more room than the V70 ,so worth look in to . I did not have to remove the sub frame or steering . Having got the whole lot out , it was not to bad to remove the gear box. Also the rate of oil loss was around 1.5L per hundred miles ,and yes the plug had fell out as it was ground down by the edge of the ring gear. Roger Last edited by rogerb; Mar 10th, 2014 at 02:19. |
Mar 10th, 2014, 08:27 | #5 |
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Thanks Roger
Do you remember how much you had to split the engine from the gearbox, just wondering if I can do this, in the car, as the timing cover is quite tight to the right side of the engine, it seemed at the time easier to take the engine out less the gearbox rather than taking the gearbox off the engine in situ. Will have another try again this week to get it out, and will take some pictures. John |
Mar 12th, 2014, 00:06 | #6 |
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Mine has the same oil leak from the drain hole, but with the front up on axle stands with the engine running and in gear (4wd disconnected) there is no noticeble oil leak.
It is only when I turn it off that it leaks quite badly. I thought it may be gearbox oil and leaking out when it depressurises, but I'm 80% convinced it's engine oil. I also have the telltale smoke from the dipstick, and have cleaned all tubles and the PCV system but can't clear it. I think I have too much pressure in the crankcase. Very interested on how you get on with this as I may need to do likewise. Good Luck |
Mar 14th, 2014, 21:47 | #7 |
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Well the engine is now finally out!
The biggest issue is that the bevel awd box has to come off as well, as it covers 2 bolts completely that go into the gearbox, which also means the the r/h wheel and drive shaft has to come out. I've had to take off bevel box anyway as needed to change the awd coupling. I left the rear engine mount, and the torque rod at the front. Placed a block of wood between the gearbox and the subframe just below where the starter is mounted. Lifted the engine more on the r/h side, so the sump would clear the subframe. the engine only needs about 2 and half inches to clear the torque converter, make sure that it stays on the gear box and doesn't come with the flywheel. I removed the crank sensor, it will need a clean anyway to get the metal filings off it and the EGR valve and the vacuum pump on the rear of the block, but the fuel pump can stay on. You have to disconnect the fuel pipes by the r/h wheel, the pressure line has a special sealing quick release joint, I made a tool to disconnect it with a piece of nylon, it was a cable clamp with a nail attached, ground back the nail holding part and ground a leading edge, it has a slot to fit over the tube. The alternator has to come off, and the air conditioning compressor, but no need to let the gas out. I took off the timing belt cover as well. Mine is a lefthand drive so not sure where the servo is on a r/h drive and where the abs valve is located as well I used a short chain between the 2 lifting points and didn't even have to remove the bonnet luckily. I can take some pictures if that may help. I just need to get the coupling off the gearbox for the awd somehow, I think I will grind some slots in there tomorrow. I still think its a better option than pulling the gearbox off the engine, and lowering the subframe, but there is just a lot of unbolting. I have borrowed an engine lifting crane. There are also some parts that will need 2 people! I have done this in my garden outside made use of these super dry last days, hope it stays dry for the refit! John |
Sep 15th, 2018, 11:32 | #8 |
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What is the procedure for the core plug itself. Is it a convex design that needs to be 'popped' to fit or a straight fit with an appropriate socket?
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Sep 16th, 2018, 22:17 | #10 |
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