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200 Series General Forum for the Volvo 240 and 260 cars |
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New (to me) 1980 Volvo 244Views : 2026882 Replies : 4092Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Jan 21st, 2021, 17:42 | #2191 |
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Yes, indeed. Standards, along with expectations, have definitely changed dramatically in the last half-century or so. Tighter manufacturing tolerances, combined with improved lubricants, have resulted in vastly increased economy, performance and reliability from ever smaller engines, but at the expense of greater mechanical complexity and sophistication.
When I was running 1950's cars in the '60s, the need for a 'top' overhaul was not uncommon every 10 thousand miles, with a full one becoming necessary at 30. These were relatively simple affairs, but I would not want to do that on a 240 Alan, much less on a modern performance car such as your Porsche. Take the Fiat 500 that I spoke of earlier for example, little bigger than a motorcycle unit, it was what I called a 'kitchen table' engine - one that you could take out, strip down and rebuild - on the kitchen table, if necessary! Regards, John.
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Jan 21st, 2021, 18:03 | #2192 |
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At the moment the job doesn’t need doing (if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it) but I’m mindful that the motor is 40 years old, so it might one day. If that day ever comes it will be a judgement call between just changing the rings and big ends - and pulling the motor out (now I have a good hoist that would probably only take a couple of hours) and having the whole thing rebuilt, I use 20W50 mineral oil, I don’t mix ATF in it - the whole point being using a heavier grade oil on an older motor (and that seems to work absolutely perfectly). What I do though is take the plugs out every few months (a couple at a time) and give the cylinders 4-5 squirts of ATF (making sure that cylinders are at about 90/270 degree positions) - and leave it a couple of days before starting. That seems to be keeping the rings in good order. Alan
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Jan 21st, 2021, 18:15 | #2193 | |
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You may recall, I’m much more of a bike guy than a car chap - top end overhauls were very common indeed with bikes - particularly when we used to ride air cooled 2 strokes. Rings on performance 2 strokes such as MX bikes only lasted 20 hours run, but they were very cheap and could be changed in half an hour or less. As I just wrote to Dave, the RB doesn’t need any ring work at the moment (and had a rebuilt cylinder head last year that I bought for only £99), but I’m mindful that the motor is 40 years old and it may need some work one day. I wouldn’t be too worried about putting in new rings and big ends - there is so much room around the engine I think that would probably be a one day job without taking it out of the car. Anyway: if it ain’t broke don’t fix it Alan! I certainly would not attempt that job on my flat 6 double DOHC Porsche! :-)
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... another lovely day in paradise. Last edited by Othen; Jan 21st, 2021 at 18:17. Reason: Spelling error. |
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Jan 21st, 2021, 19:48 | #2194 | |
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I totally agree on the if it ain't broke don't fix it approach and had forgotten you'd switched to 20W50 mineral oil. You could if you wished still add the ATF to the oil to give a more diluted but longer cleaning effect and also give the seals the benefit of the "Seal-Swell" in the ATF to revive them while helping keep the engine clean. The ATF-U is 32 viscosity so is almost bang in the middle of 20W50 and only being about 10% by volume, won't effect the overall viscosity of the oil but should have many benefits. Knowing you change your oil fairly regularly, the main benefit of a synthetic or semi-synthetic oil will largley be wasted, that of extended service life of the oil. If the 20W50 works better for you than the 10W40 then keep using it!
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Jan 21st, 2021, 20:38 | #2195 |
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You're probably losing some oil out of the rear crank seal Alan, unless it has had the gearbox off for some reason in the last 40 years it might even be the original one!
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Jan 21st, 2021, 22:15 | #2196 | |
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Regards, John.
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Jan 22nd, 2021, 06:47 | #2197 | |
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When I first got the car I suspected so as there was often oil around that area, but the problem turned out to be the spacer between the block and the fuel pump. Someone has over-tightened it (years ago I should think) and split the nylon. It was a trivial job to swap the spacer for a new part (from a Volvo marine dealer - Volvo car dealers were useless). The oil had been dripping down the left side of the motor and so looked like it was coming from the rear seal. As soon as I fixed the spacer that dried up immediately - now there are no longer any rainbows under the car when it rains. I think the chances are the motor and gearbox have never been split - so it probably does still have aa the original 40 year old crank seal :-)
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Jan 22nd, 2021, 06:54 | #2198 | |
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I think you are right about a little oil use being considered healthy back in the day (and I suppose there is something to be said for the upper rings receiving a little lubrication - but not the unburnt motor oil making its way into the environment). I have read on the BRISKODA website that certain VAG motors regularly consume their very expensive synthetic oil at much the same rate as does the RB, and that the dealers consider this to be normal (well they would ..). Fortunately that has never afflicted my Skoda Superb (the VAG diesel engines are apparently not prone to using oil). :-)
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Jan 24th, 2021, 18:21 | #2199 |
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Winter Tyres
I knew those winter tyres would come in handy!
:-)
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Jan 24th, 2021, 19:31 | #2200 |
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Been trying to think of a "David Attenbrough-esque" commentary to add but the brain cell isn't working. Something along the lines of a Volvo in its natural habitat...........
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