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200 Series General Forum for the Volvo 240 and 260 cars |
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shock absorber replacementViews : 613 Replies : 10Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Aug 2nd, 2020, 15:42 | #1 |
scruffy240SE
Last Online: Sep 24th, 2020 15:08
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: London
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shock absorber replacement
Hi all, the front shocks on my '93 245SE need replacing and I'm planning to do it myself. I don't recall if they have ever been replaced, I bought it from new Do any of you folks have any useful advice for me? I expect to replace the top strut mounts/bearings at the same time. Should I anticipate any more replacements while I'm at it? Any more special tools other than a spring compressor? Will I need a special tool to loosen the shock absorber retaining nut? I'll be doing this job in the street .
Any advice, gratefully received. Ian |
Aug 3rd, 2020, 08:36 | #2 |
Not an expert but ...
Last Online: Yesterday 16:29
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Boncath
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A few tips from experience:
You don't have to remove the whole strut to replace a shock absorber. You can lower the suspension after undoing the three securing nuts holding the top mounting and swing the strut outwards so it clears the wing lip, so you have space to extract the shock absorber. Loosen the suspension bolts to let the bushes rotate freely. Uncouple the anti-roll bar drop link. Loosen the big nut on top first. Lower the strut and then compress the spring enough so you can remove the top pivot plate plus bearing. (For security of mind bind the compressors so they can't slip off) You don't need a special tool to undo the nut. Use a cold chisel or a big stillson wrench. If you do want to remove the whole strut, use the slots cut in the brake pipe securing brackets on the strut to release the brake pipes. You can then wind the strut up through the coiled pipes, leaving the brakes entirely untouched. No need to drain or bleed fluid. (If there are no slots, cut them carefully - brake-pipe thickness) Don't forget to retighten all the suspension bolts after the car is back standing on its wheels. Mark the position of the top plate before dismantling, so you retain the camber setting. |
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Aug 3rd, 2020, 09:47 | #3 |
scruffy240SE
Last Online: Sep 24th, 2020 15:08
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: London
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Thank you Clifford for your sound advice. I'll be sure to act on it. I was quoted £700 to change the shocks, top strut mount and springs so thought might have a go, money being short 'an all.
The springs are intact. How can I tell if they need to be replaced? The car does bounce around when I sit on the front end but it sits level. |
Aug 3rd, 2020, 14:57 | #4 |
scruffy240SE
Last Online: Sep 24th, 2020 15:08
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: London
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The green book states torque values for some joints. Should I buy a torque wrench or just give it a good tighten?
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Aug 4th, 2020, 00:58 | #5 |
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Aug 4th, 2020, 07:40 | #6 |
Not an expert but ...
Last Online: Yesterday 16:29
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Boncath
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I've hardly ever bothered with the torque wrench, apart from on really critical things like cylinder heads. I read once that the size of a normal spanner gives a good enough guide to how tight a nut should be. Applying normal but not gorilla force, a big spanner = very tight, a small spanner = gently. Most nuts are over-tightened, by amateurs because they think very tight is best: by garages because they use air tools and can't be bothered adjusting the setting.
The most useful thing I use mine for is applying leverage to undo really tight nuts. It's long, has a good tight grip on the socket, and unlike a breaker bar the line of the lever is very close to the nut, so you don't waste force having to hold the thing straight. |
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Aug 4th, 2020, 08:02 | #7 | |
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Quote:
My background is more with bikes than cars (so more aluminium parts, generally smaller fasteners ...). I may be tainted by that, but my view is that the manufacturer's torque settings are there for a reason (most often to stop things being over-tightened, sometimes to ensure they are done up enough). We will have to agree to disagree, my advice to the OP would be to buy a torque wrench for at least the larger fasteners (something like a 20-200 Nm range - costs less than £20) and use it whenever there is a setting stated. Being a biker I also find it useful to have another wrench that works at a lower range (mine is marked in lbf.in, but there is an easy linear conversion); on a car this is less important as long as one has some feeling for what lower torques (less than about 20 N.m) feel like. I'd still advise the OP to get a torque wrench and use it on the suspension components. :-) Last edited by Othen; Aug 4th, 2020 at 08:05. Reason: Spelling error. |
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Aug 4th, 2020, 10:12 | #9 |
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Aug 4th, 2020, 12:05 | #10 |
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Location: London and Cambridge
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Hi,
I helped a friend replace his springs and shocks recently, without removing/undoing the brake system. You’ll need to undo the top nut on the strut before you jack the car up- the easiest way is to undo it using an impact wrench and then do it back up and leave it finger tight. If you don’t have an impact wrench check you’ll need a combination of tools to allow you to undo it- you’ll need a deep ring spanner and something to hold the shock centre whilst you turn it- the top will be a hex shape for a small socket or an Allen head perhaps. We needed to undo the bottom ball joint (3 19mm bolts holding the strut to the suspension arm) and then the bracket holding the brake line unions onto the front subframe (one 10 or 13mm, can’t remember) to get enough clearance to manoeuvre it out from under the wing to be able to work on it. I don’t think you’ll be able to do it this way on your own- you’ll need help holding the strut still whilst undoing the big nut that holds the shock insert in and again doing it up, as well as help manoeuvring the strut out of the wheel arch without dropping it and then manoeuvring it back into place and getting the strut top nuts started. That said it isn’t hard particularly, just takes a bit of time. You’ll need a set of spring compressors, along with spanners, socket sets etc. Cheers |
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