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Front crossmember and or bitsViews : 810 Replies : 8Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Aug 14th, 2011, 11:15 | #1 |
Senior Member
Last Online: Mar 3rd, 2022 14:20
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Edinburgh
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Front crossmember and or bits
I'm want to buy a front crossmember in the UK to repair, repaint, re-bush, rebuild, re-whatever, and then swap with the existing one on my '68 Amazon daily driver. If you've got one squirrelled away for just-in-case, part-exchange it with me! Then when I've finished I can return my current one to you, in as good as (or better*) condition than your original.
I'm looking for the crossmember, arms and spindles but not necessarily all from the same person. * This steering box has been leaking for years so the crossmember's guaranteed to be at least 50% good Last edited by Colonel Froth; Aug 14th, 2011 at 11:23. |
Aug 14th, 2011, 12:33 | #2 |
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Last Online: Jul 14th, 2013 14:28
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: MK
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The crossmembers are shimmed to the car. If you replace it it ought to be re shimmed to get the caster right. It'll work without of course, but it won't be spot on.
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Aug 14th, 2011, 13:24 | #3 |
Senior Member
Last Online: Mar 3rd, 2022 14:20
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Edinburgh
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So every car-crossmember pair is unique, presumably due to manufacturing tolerances, and a new crossmember would necessitate a wee chassis tune-up? Thanks for the info.
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Aug 14th, 2011, 14:27 | #4 |
Bury me in my Volvo
Last Online: Oct 18th, 2017 23:16
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Calgary (again!)
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Hi - ahhhh, the cross-member. I won't repeat my story, but it is on here somewhere.
Be prepared for new lower control-arm bolts too, they are tough to get out sometimes (probably okay on the steering-box side.) Take all your shims out carefully, making note of where they came from, and that will make the front-end alignment easier too. When I did mine, I sandblasted, seam-sealed all the joints with putty, then primed the whole thing. On top, nice paint; on the bottom I coated it with truck-bed liner. Hmmmm, I also recall the shocks can and often do elongate the hole in the top, where they come through. Make sure you check that and get it fixed before painting. And one more thing - I'd advise you to soak the bolts which go straight up into the frame for a week or so before trying to get them loose - a high moisture area, and you don't want to break anything off. Cheerio! Jim |
Aug 14th, 2011, 15:32 | #5 |
Senior Member
Last Online: Mar 3rd, 2022 14:20
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Edinburgh
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Yeah I remember reading about the grief you went through, and Ron Kwas's Solution, if there was a smiley of a man tapping his head I'd use it and say "it's all up here". When I last changed my shock absorbers I didn't notice misshapen holes, how bad are your roads up there?
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Aug 31st, 2011, 06:31 | #6 |
Senior Member
Last Online: Oct 4th, 2023 06:43
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Banbury
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suspension bits
I think I can get together most front suspension bits,but cant help with a crossmember.Are you in a hurry?Dave
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Aug 31st, 2011, 07:49 | #7 |
Chief Bodger
Last Online: Yesterday 22:45
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Aberdeen
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I have a spare P1800 crossmember but I think they are different but if not you can have it...
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Aug 31st, 2011, 15:23 | #8 |
Senior Member
Last Online: Mar 3rd, 2022 14:20
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Location: Edinburgh
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PMs sent thanks.
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Aug 31st, 2011, 21:15 | #9 |
Pastry Engineer
Last Online: Mar 3rd, 2024 21:47
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Scappoose Oregon
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The 1800 cross members are different. They have different bolt up points to the body.
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