TF-80SC Fluid Change Done

[PeteB1]

I've just done the 3rd drain/fill round on mine which if my maths is correct leaves a dilution of about 70% new fluid/30% old. 2.4ltr came out each time and the total capacity is around 7ltr.

Just the proper level check to do now.

From now, I will probably do a single 2.4ltr drain/filll every 20k miles, if not every 40k miles.

[SourDiesel]

Sounds like a good job, did you remove the ECU and airfilter to access the fill plug? I'm always wary of unplugging stuff expensive and electrical...

[PeteB1]

Originally Posted by SourDiesel

Sounds like a good job, did you remove the ECU and airfilter to access the fill plug? I'm always wary of unplugging stuff expensive and electrical...

Yeah, unfortunately, it's a necessary part of the job. But, I try and make it a quick job, get myself prepared, quickly but carefully release the two main ECU connections, then remove them out of the way and move the air filter housing containing the ECU well out of the way to the back of the garage. I wish now I'd replaced the dipped headlamp bulb at the same time with a long life one. The air filter housing has to be removed even to do the N/S dipped headlamp bulb.

One of my other long term interests has been building/repairing computers and if one takes the same care as when removing memory sticks or main CPU's, one should be OK. Even then, the fewer times it's done the better which is why I was thinking of a single 2.4ltr drain/fill every 20 or 40k, i.e. when I'm changing the air filter.

[latman]

I have just acquired my first Volvo, a 2006 XC70 with the 6-speed geartronic (TF-80SC) and going through all the oils, filters and other service items. A procedure of getting acquainted...

Thank you kindly for this ATF change description, it seems staightforward enough with the right tools and ATF on hand, but I am still a little scared about attacking the air filter box with ECU mounted on top.

Is their separate description somewhere on removing it? (my search couldnt find it).

Peter

[PeteB1]

Originally Posted by latman

I have just acquired my first Volvo, a 2006 XC70 with the 6-speed geartronic (TF-80SC) and going through all the oils, filters and other service items. A procedure of getting acquainted...

Thank you kindly for this ATF change description, it seems staightforward enough with the right tools and ATF on hand, but I am still a little scared about attacking the air filter box with ECU mounted on top.

Is their separate description somewhere on removing it? (my search couldnt find it).

Peter

It's easy enough if care is taken. The ignition must be switched off obviously and presumably the battery should be disconnected too but that's apparently not the easy procedure it once was .

I've done it without, AFAIAA, this ECU is part of the injection system and therefore presumbly not powered with the ignition off/key removed.

As you've seen, there are 2 big connectors, the removable connector is the female end of the connector. Release the lock clips, study carefully how the clips release, then move the release clips across steadily and evenly. That will disconnect the plugs from the ECU in one steady movement, then move the released connectors out of the way. You will also need to release the MAF sensor but that's much easier. The air filter box can then be separated in the normal way, be carefull in handling the removed filter box top with the ECU on it. Also be careful that nothing can get into the exposed female connectors.

The TORX socket filler plug can then be accessed.

Replacement is the reverse of removal, on replacing the big connections, carefully line them up first push in firmly but carefully then move the lock clips back across until they lock. This action will also pull the connectors together. Finish the rest of the reinstallation and all should be OK.

I did wonder whether it might be easier to get the oil in via the top cooler pipe, I didn't try but it ought to be easier than removing the aif filter to get to the proper filler.

[v_matt_v]

Pete,

Your posts are very useful. Do you have a picture of the level check and drain plugs? Where are they located exactly?

Thanks,
Matt

[PeteB1]

Originally Posted by v_matt_v

Pete,

Do you have a picture of the level check and drain plugs? Where are they located exactly?

Thanks,
Matt

Some of the details I had then I can't now find but this document shows the combined drain/filler plugs in good detail. The 'special tool' for the drain plug socket is a generic 17 mm hexagon sump removal tool and can be obtained from Halfords etc.

A good description of the procedure and some other links are given in this post on the Matthews Volvo Site Forum.

HTH

[MartinK]

A HUGE THANKS to Pete for posting this, it's given me confidence to tackle my own 2009 XC70 gearbox.

However, there were a couple of differences and observations in my process...

1. When I loosened the level (T40) screw, about a cupful of oil came out straight away (engine off, lukewarm, level).
2. When I then removed the drain plug completely, 3 litres of fluid drained.
3. At 55k miles, my fluid was relatively clean, reddish colour, and not too dissimilar from the new 3309 fluid.
4. I checked (as best I could) the torque settings:
Drain Plug 45nm
Level Plug 8nm
Filler Plug 30nm
5. No need to move the ECU with a 2009 XC70 (see pic) - I don't know where it is on my car, but it's not under the airbox, so it's not disturbed on a 2009 xc70...
6. When I refilled (see pic), after 2 litres, some oil started coming out of the level plug. I refitted the level plug quickly, and continued to fill with 3 litres (the same amount as had drained).

Picture of my refill hole...I had removed the air filter box only:


A couple of thoughts:

i. Because the oil ran out of the level plug slightly after the 2nd litre was refilled, I'm now about an egg-cup-full less than original
ii. I ALWAYS select neutral when stationary, and do very little town driving, no towing, I wonder if that's why my fluid was still clean after 55k miles?
iii. The job was pretty quick on my vehicle, and would only add about 20 mins to the time needed to change the engine oil (just a case of moving the air filter box, and 3 extra screws once the splash plate's removed)
iv. The gearchange seems slightly improved since the fluid change.

A Question:

I wonder why mine drained 3 litres (not 2.4 litres like most other cars), is there a difference on my (2009, xc70) model? The fact that a cupful of fluid drained out when I initially removed the level plug (lukewarm engine after about a 2 mile run, and with engine off) suggests I need to do a level check by having the engine running (as per below VADIS process) when checking the level??? Any thoughs???

Future

I'll change the gearbox fluid with a fresh 3 litres every 20k miles I think - from what I have seen that will keep the fluid relatively fresh...

Next time, I'll add slightly more than the 3 litres (probably 3.2 litres), put the vehicle back together, and perform this level check (from VADIS apparently):

Checking the oil level
Start the engine.
Note! Leave the engine running during the entire check.
Note! The following measure must be carried out quickly to avoid overheating the fluid.
Run through all the positions between P and D on the gear selector. Stop at each position for at least 2 seconds. Perform this process twice.
Allow the transmission fluid to heat up to 50 ºC.
Place a lower drip shield on the floor under the vehicle.
While the engine is running, remove the integrated level plug (Torx 40).
Allow the excess fluid to run out.
When the fluid is between 50 ºC and 60 ºC, check that the transmission fluid has stopped running out and is only dropping from the level plug hole.
Caution! It is essential the temperature not exceed 60 ºC, as this can result in the transmission fluid level being too low.
Fit the integrated level plug (Torx 40).

I should expect that following this procedure, that around 200ml of fluid will run out of the level plug, and the level will be set correctly.

[PeteB1]

Originally Posted by MartinK

........There were a couple of differences and observations in my process...

1. When I loosened the level (T40) screw, about a cupful of oil came out straight away (engine off, lukewarm, level).
2. When I then removed the drain plug completely, 3 litres of fluid drained.
3. At 55k miles, my fluid was relatively clean, reddish colour, and not too dissimilar from the new 3309 fluid.
4. I checked (as best I could) the torque settings:
Drain Plug 45nm
Level Plug 8nm
Filler Plug 30nm
5. No need to move the ECU with a 2009 XC70 (see pic) - I don't know where it is on my car, but it's not under the airbox, so it's not disturbed on a 2009 xc70...
6. When I refilled, after 2 litres, some oil started coming out of the level plug. I refitted the level plug quickly, and continued to fill with 3 litres (the same amount as had drained).

Quoted post pic removed for space reason

A couple of thoughts:

i. Because the oil ran out of the level plug slightly after the 2nd litre was refilled, I'm now about an egg-cup-full less than original
ii. I ALWAYS select neutral when stationary, and do very little town driving, no towing, I wonder if that's why my fluid was still clean after 55k miles?
iii. The job was pretty quick on my vehicle, and would only add about 20 mins to the time needed to change the engine oil (just a case of moving the air filter box, and 3 extra screws once the splash plate's removed)
iv. The gearchange seems slightly improved since the fluid change.

A Question:

I wonder why mine drained 3 litres (not 2.4 litres like most other cars), is there a difference on my (2009, xc70) model? The fact that a cupful of fluid drained out when I initially removed the level plug (lukewarm engine after about a 2 mile run, and with engine off) suggests I need to do a level check by having the engine running (as per below VADIS process) when checking the level??? Any thoughs???

Future

I'll change the gearbox fluid with a fresh 3 litres every 20k miles I think - from what I have seen that will keep the fluid relatively fresh...

Next time, I'll add slightly more than the 3 litres (probably 3.2 litres), put the vehicle back together, and perform this level check (from VADIS apparently):

I should expect that following this procedure, that around 200ml of fluid will run out of the level plug, and the level will be set correctly.

Glad you got it sorted and thanks for posting the useful points on the differences you found between the Phase 2 V/XC 70 and your later Phase 3 version.

It looks somewhat easier for the later engine, getting access to the filler. There will always be some fluid comes out of the main drain plug when removing the level check plug with the engine not running as the correct level check process is with the engine running and the fluid being pumped around.

The difference in amount of fluid that drains out from one model to another may not be particularly relevant, as long as the right level is attained in any given box. Differences may occur due to slight outer gearbox case dimension variations for different car subframe/engine bay designs.

It's good that your fluid didn't look very degraded after 55k miles. As my earlier post indicated, mine was still red but very dark/opaque, at least in larger volume, compared to the 'new' fluid. Mine has a removable towbar so I've no idea what was done with it in its first 35k miles before I had it although the towball does not look very well used .

Thanks for the VIDA description of level checking, the exact level seems very precise for the 6 speed compared to the earlier 5 speed with it's dipstick. The 6 speed level has to be checked with the engine running, the gearbox primed and the fluid at the correct temperature. It would appear that to ensure a correct level for this box would be to slightly overfill from what drains out, give a short run to temperature, then let the excess drain out.

Like you, I've decided on a drain/fill every 20k miles after doing my first at 60k miles.

[hamilton65]

Old post but wanted to give my experience. Thanks MartinK for this write up! At 41k miles my fluid was dark/opaque in my 2012 XC70 T6 AWD. I drained 3.5 liters and refilled the same amount using Volvo 31256775 trans fluid. After refilling and test driving I noticed hard downshifts to 3rd and 2nd. That went away after a hour. I'm still experiencing (same as before oil change) a delayed downshift into 1st gear when pulling up to a stop sign. If I pull up to a stop sign quickly and give it gas right away it clunks/hard shifts into first gear. If I stop and wait a second it goes back to first with out issue. Sounds like maybe a software issue?