Engine: D5: what could be draining my power?

[barrybritcher]

just a thought, have you got one of the wifi or bluetooth obd2 adapters?

I bought a cheap ELM27 for my sisters car and the thing was perm live so drained the battery lol

[totalguy]

right so im told that the car randomly drops to 10 volts

also the exhaust note changes a bit when idling and you hear a click


also im being asked about the heater if the final stage resistor for the heater works ok? i believe in some other cars its called a heater resistor pack in fords anyway.

being a bmw specialist they gave me ths link there has been similar issues on bmw https://l.facebook.com/l.php?u=https...30yUWUcD15-HNo


can anyone help out here? i said id ask for information and pass it on if i got any

also being asked how long until the car sleeps after locking? i get different answers everywhere but in my testing it was 10 mins

also its got a constant draw of 2.5 amps not sure if that is running or not

so at the moment we need to investigate the ccm and associated parts anything we can test? will vida or vdash do any tests? i know you can recalibrate the ccm but i dont think that will do anything for my problem and the climate worked as it should normally thats not to say its not the problem though is it.


can we leave the CCM unplugged for days see if that helps will the car run without it? also im told a ccm problem can cause a SRS error in the dim display but im not sure if thats related or not.


thanks in advance

[totalguy]

Originally Posted by barrybritcher

just a thought, have you got one of the wifi or bluetooth obd2 adapters?

I bought a cheap ELM27 for my sisters car and the thing was perm live so drained the battery lol

no i only use vida on mine i do have a pro scan generic adapter but you cant leave that plugged in its lit up constant if you do.

[totalguy]

Originally Posted by camturbo

Let's hope that the garage solves your issue and let us all know the results that the garage find. It may help someone else out with similar issues in the future.

have done not got to the bottom of it yet though

[petey]

I’ve just had to change the resistor pack on mine; it was obvious enough that something was wrong, the blower was running on after the ignition was turned off (due to the cold weather pack that’s fitted in Scandinavia, the blower fuse doesn’t turn off with the ignition switch.). If you leave the climate control set on face vents, in his weather it gets pretty cold pretty quick and is easily detected.

Use pull fuse number three; top left, third one down, a clear 30A device from the fuse box on the end of the dash, visible when the driver’s door is open. Easier than mucking about with modules etc.

[reggit]

Have you checked the engine earth strap? These often fail inside the sleeving at the starter motor terminal, other end is on the passengerside inner wing.

If it is intermittent, it will give intermittent starting problems and charging issues - the no charge warning doesn't come on (or it didn't on mine).

[totalguy]

Originally Posted by petey

I’ve just had to change the resistor pack on mine; it was obvious enough that something was wrong, the blower was running on after the ignition was turned off (due to the cold weather pack that’s fitted in Scandinavia, the blower fuse doesn’t turn off with the ignition switch.). If you leave the climate control set on face vents, in his weather it gets pretty cold pretty quick and is easily detected.

Use pull fuse number three; top left, third one down, a clear 30A device from the fuse box on the end of the dash, visible when the driver’s door is open. Easier than mucking about with modules etc.

where is it?are there how to's to change it?

also what do volvo call it probably some stupid name

[totalguy]

Originally Posted by reggit

Have you checked the engine earth strap? These often fail inside the sleeving at the starter motor terminal, other end is on the passengerside inner wing.

If it is intermittent, it will give intermittent starting problems and charging issues - the no charge warning doesn't come on (or it didn't on mine).

had a look at that checked the cable for resistance also cleaned the terminals it actually joins under the starter. it doesnt show any volts going through it on a clamp meter

[petey]

Originally Posted by totalguy

where is it?are there how to's to change it?

also what do volvo call it probably some stupid name

It's directly above the passenger's foot, but don't worry about that at the moment, take the fuse out as described and see if that makes a difference. Don't go firing off the "I wonder if it's this?" shotgun and changing dozens of things, isolate one thing at a time until you find the fault condition changes.

[cheshired5]

Originally Posted by totalguy

had a look at that checked the cable for resistance also cleaned the terminals it actually joins under the starter. it doesnt show any volts going through it on a clamp meter

You don't resistance test an earth cable and your voltage tests with a clamp meter are completely incorrect.

As I helpfully suggested nearly 2 weeks ago, you need to learn how to use your multimeter correctly and understand the tests you are doing or find someone who knows.
If you keep insisting that you've done this and that test correctly when you clearly haven't, you'll still be in the same position in another 2 weeks, months or years.

The fact that this thread has made no progress in 8 pages tells you its own story.