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Just bought a 96 940 - First Jobs

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Old Sep 22nd, 2019, 11:33   #11
baggy798
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Also on full lock there is a ‘bouncing’ back and forth of the steering wheel and a noise...
They all tend to do that. It's normal.
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Old Sep 22nd, 2019, 13:30   #12
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Really? I might not mention it to the garage then and see how she is after a service. My dad thought it might be the power steering pump as he had the same issue on his 240 years ago.
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Old Sep 22nd, 2019, 13:37   #13
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If it does it turning one way but not the other it is because the rack is not tracked to the centre. If it does it going both ways it can be down to bushes or top mounts. It is a common issue and can take a lot of trial and error to sort.
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Old Sep 22nd, 2019, 13:44   #14
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Really? I might not mention it to the garage then and see how she is after a service. My dad thought it might be the power steering pump as he had the same issue on his 240 years ago.
The 240s and 140s do it too.
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Old Sep 22nd, 2019, 15:33   #15
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I have never had a 140 do it that I remember. The 140 suspension system is far superior with the double wishbone.
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Old Sep 22nd, 2019, 16:12   #16
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I have never had a 140 do it that I remember. The 140 suspension system is far superior with the double wishbone.
Maybe the tracking was a smidge out on my 144 then, was a long time ago now.
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Old Sep 23rd, 2019, 10:06   #17
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Could have been.

140's with original wheels have mega lock
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Old Sep 23rd, 2019, 18:27   #18
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Don't worry about it. On extreme lock it is usual. There are technical reasons why and possibly all the front end components although satisfactory age comes into 'play'. If you search on here there have been several in-depth threads on the subject. Find something else to worry about. Bob .
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Old Oct 6th, 2019, 19:59   #19
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*snip*
Find the flame-trap. Preferably renew it but if not, remove it and clean it internally (it clips together) with carb cleaner. Follow the hoses from it and ensure the manifold stub is clear and clean with the carb cleaner.Also give a good spray into the oil separator. Renew or clean the oil filler cap by removing and spraying carb cleaner into the top stub.

Note that both the flame trap and oil filler cap are service items so shouldn't be too bad if it's been serviced properly. Checking their condition will give you an idea whether it's had proper servicing or just the basics.

Also check the air filter for cleanliness and renew if needed.

Finally after doing all this, remove fuse #1 for a minimum of 30 seconds then refit.

Congrats on your purchase and enjoy!
I changed the seal on my oil filler cap and now it's no longer blowing oil it's smoking badly which I believe is a clogged breather problem. Trouble is I have no idea how to find the elusive flame trap. A friend said it's a 2 minute job to remove it but I cannot for the life of me work out where it is. Do I need to jack/ramp the car? If anyone has a pic that would be lovely. I have searched older posts but the pics seem to have expired.
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Old Oct 6th, 2019, 20:32   #20
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I changed the seal on my oil filler cap and now it's no longer blowing oil it's smoking badly which I believe is a clogged breather problem. Trouble is I have no idea how to find the elusive flame trap. A friend said it's a 2 minute job to remove it but I cannot for the life of me work out where it is. Do I need to jack/ramp the car? If anyone has a pic that would be lovely. I have searched older posts but the pics seem to have expired.
Which model and engine have you got, also what year?
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