Just bought a 96 940 - First Jobs

[griston64]

Originally Posted by vickyg

I changed the seal on my oil filler cap and now it's no longer blowing oil it's smoking badly which I believe is a clogged breather problem. Trouble is I have no idea how to find the elusive flame trap. A friend said it's a 2 minute job to remove it but I cannot for the life of me work out where it is. Do I need to jack/ramp the car? If anyone has a pic that would be lovely. I have searched older posts but the pics seem to have expired.

If your car is a B230FK OR B230FT it only has a Y piece

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Very easy to clean that and breather hose. A bit more fiddly getting the box out but worthwhile if your cleaning PCV system

[griston64]

It's all accessible from above

[Jebus]

Also check and clean the stub on the inlet manifold the small hose from the elbow connects to it is prone to blocking.

[Rversteeg]

Excellent description:
https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=71672

With larger version of the attachments:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lamyc/3491170059
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lamyc/...n/photostream/

I did not take out the inlet manifold or disconnected the fuel system, but merely disconnected it from the cylinder head. Moving it sidewards gave me enough room to reach the flame trap, even though my manifold also has additional LPG injectors installed. The trap itself was quite clean, even after 400K miles. Get a new sealing ring before dismantling, because the old one will probably be brittle and leaking. And for the LPT: no flame trap.

[gpl1968]

Originally Posted by griston64

If your car is a B230FK OR B230FT it only has a Y piece


Very easy to clean that and breather hose. A bit more fiddly getting the box out but worthwhile if your cleaning PCV system

Apparently Volvo originally fitted the N/A honeycomb flame trap to the turbo engines (it is pictured that way in Vadis) but they kept clogging up, so the Y piece was substituted and, confusingly, is still called the flame trap if you need to order one. That said, the narrow branch tube can snap off as it gets old and brittle so it is a good idea to have a spare.

[vickyg]

Got the B200FT here. Thanks folks for the pics and great advice. The small hose was not even connected to the Y-piece just floating in space. Not blocked. I've taken off the breather hose with the Y attached. A bit cruddy but nothing blocked. The breather hose was barely connected and had pretty much fallen apart in the soft insulation sleeve. The end on the Y was held on with a cable tie. Where the hose attaches to the box the spigot from the box itself is a littel wobbly(?)

All a bit of a mess it seems to me. The small hose had no clips at all. The oil trap itself is a right mess of oil which has spray out over a long time I can only guess. I am really loathe to try and remove it as it does not seem very accessible at all. I'm wondering if I squirt in some carb cleaner and replace all the hoses properly connected, may even buy some new ones whether this could solve the issue. I have tried blowing down a house into the box itself and air flows. Then a much needed oil change and cambelt (the latter I am not doing!)

The car was for my father but he's not been well so I'm looking after it short term. The woman that sold it seemed to have no idea of these faults but I'm not so sure. She'd owned it less than 2 years so I suspect just drove it like this and clearly didn't care about it.

I've tried to add a pic but it just says 'upload failed'.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by vickyg

Got the B200FT here. Thanks folks for the pics and great advice. The small hose was not even connected to the Y-piece just floating in space. Not blocked. I've taken off the breather hose with the Y attached. A bit cruddy but nothing blocked. The breather hose was barely connected and had pretty much fallen apart in the soft insulation sleeve. The end on the Y was held on with a cable tie. Where the hose attaches to the box the spigot from the box itself is a littel wobbly(?)

All a bit of a mess it seems to me. The small hose had no clips at all. The oil trap itself is a right mess of oil which has spray out over a long time I can only guess. I am really loathe to try and remove it as it does not seem very accessible at all. I'm wondering if I squirt in some carb cleaner and replace all the hoses properly connected, may even buy some new ones whether this could solve the issue. I have tried blowing down a house into the box itself and air flows. Then a much needed oil change and cambelt (the latter I am not doing!)

The car was for my father but he's not been well so I'm looking after it short term. The woman that sold it seemed to have no idea of these faults but I'm not so sure. She'd owned it less than 2 years so I suspect just drove it like this and clearly didn't care about it.

I've tried to add a pic but it just says 'upload failed'.

Renew the hoses so they are good for several years to come, if you can use a longer one between the flame trap and the oil separator to raise the level of the flame trap above the inlet manifold (it's amazing how much cleaner the flame trap stays this way!) and extend the other hoses to suit.

Spray carb cleaner into the large bore hose from the flametrap to the oil separator, this will clean the oil separator and because it evaporates quickly, won't harm the oil.
Also use carb cleaner on the inlet manifold stub that gives a vacuum to the flame trap and if necessary, a drill bit to help clean it out.

Also clean the AICV with the carb cleaner - pull the hose off the inlet of it (air filter side of it) and give it a good squirt and replace the hose and let it soak. Start the car (from cold) a few minutes later, pull the hose off the AICV inlet and then give it another good squirt.
LIkewise remove the inlet trunking on the throttle body, a good squirt of carb cleaner, if it has a nozzle on it, give any drillings you can see in the throttle body a good squirt too.
Also renew the flametrap.

Before you do the oil and filter change, add 0.5L of Carlube ATF-U to the engine oil and run it like that for a couple of weeks. This will gently clean the engine internally and revive the oil seals etc. After the oil change, add 0.5L of the same then top up to level with 10W40 semi-synthetic.
Do this each time you do an oil/filter change and the oil will stay much cleaner between changes after it's cleaned the dirt out.

[vickyg]

Sound advice - I was hoping to raise the Y-piece with a longer pipe, just been measuring to find the right internal bore but I think the old hoses are too deformed to be reliable. I think I need 13mm internal diameter if the parts websites can be relied upon. Watch this space

[griston64]

Originally Posted by vickyg

Sound advice - I was hoping to raise the Y-piece with a longer pipe, just been measuring to find the right internal bore but I think the old hoses are too deformed to be reliable. I think I need 13mm internal diameter if the parts websites can be relied upon. Watch this space

I have some spare of that hose as when I ordered it from the dealer it came in a 1 metre length I think from the Y piece into the box is about 80mm.

Happy to post what you need

[griston64]

Should also add that it's worth removing catch can and giving it a proper clean. I could blow through mine but when I took it off there was quite a bit of gunk that came out.

Get all your front oil seals ( crank,cam and intermediate shaft ) done when they are doing the cam-belt as well