Running In?

[Clan]

Originally Posted by Quacker

The owner’s manual probably indicates to drive as normal after the engine has warmed up, varying the load and revs but avoiding very high revs and towing for the first few miles. Basically avoid driving at a steady speed on the motorway for the first few hundred miles.
Diesel engines do run in far better for better long term performance and longevity if run in on the harder side with a good sprinkling of up hill dashes. Very light load running during the early miles may result in a more sluggish engine that consumes oil.

No need to fret though, because modern materials, tolerances and production techniques, like plateau honing of the bores, gives a far more flexible running in procedure than historically and almost negates the need to bother altogether.

One mistake many people make is to change the factory oil too early. The is is unnecessary and can prevent satisfactory running in, glazing the bores and causing increased oil consumption, very like too light a load being applied to the engine.

Very true the initial oil should be left in until the prescribed service , also Volvo forbid any additives for fuel or oil , so if you do get a problem then Oil will be analysed first .

No need to run in as such , the gearbox will always keep the engine spinning at around 1800 rpm anyway what ever the road speed and if you do put any load on the engine you will be doing over 80 mph before you realise it . A lot has changed in the last 20 years ...

[gaby]

Originally Posted by Quacker

Basically avoid driving at a steady speed on the motorway for the first few hundred miles.

Perhaps best not to use cruise control?

[m2srt]

Originally Posted by Quacker

The owner’s manual probably indicates to drive as normal after the engine has warmed up, varying the load and revs but avoiding very high revs and towing for the first few miles. Basically avoid driving at a steady speed on the motorway for the first few hundred miles.
Diesel engines do run in far better for better long term performance and longevity if run in on the harder side with a good sprinkling of up hill dashes. Very light load running during the early miles may result in a more sluggish engine that consumes oil.

No need to fret though, because modern materials, tolerances and production techniques, like plateau honing of the bores, gives a far more flexible running in procedure than historically and almost negates the need to bother altogether.

One mistake many people make is to change the factory oil too early. The is is unnecessary and can prevent satisfactory running in, glazing the bores and causing increased oil consumption, very like too light a load being applied to the engine.

Agree with almost everything you said. My only gripe is regarding oil, I really don't think, despite oil filter and magnets in the sump, that having too many metal specks floating around in your oil is a good thing. I firmly believe that an oil change between 1000 to 2000 miles is the way to go. I remember draining the oil on my Mk6 Golf GTI after 1700 miles, I was shocked to see how much metal there was floating around. I know that the early EA888 engine is a bad example but since then I have become an advocate of early oil changes.

[CJL]

I fitted a magnetic engine oil drain plug to my 3.0D Hilux, and was surprised to see metal particles on there when I changed the oil 5,000 miles later.

[Fursty Ferret]

Originally Posted by Quacker

One mistake many people make is to change the factory oil too early. The is is unnecessary and can prevent satisfactory running in, glazing the bores and causing increased oil consumption, very like too light a load being applied to the engine.

I was told that the oil included from the factory is different from that used by the dealer. Can't remember what was special about it though.

I ran an Insignia for 45,000 miles on the original factory oil, the level never changed in that time and it did 65mpg all year round.

[m2srt]

Originally Posted by Fursty Ferret

I was told that the oil included from the factory is different from that used by the dealer. Can't remember what was special about it though.

I ran an Insignia for 45,000 miles on the original factory oil, the level never changed in that time and it did 65mpg all year round.

This is a practice that ended decades ago. I even recall my grandfather saying that cars used to have a bolt under the accelerator to prevent the car from being pushed too hard during the running in phase. I don't know how accurate that is. 'Factory oil' was more abrasive to speed the running in process, by 1000 miles the vast majority of wear has been done so even if the factory oil is different then it's work has been done by that time.

[finnster]

Originally Posted by Dilinger

I would feel safer following the owner's manual, than some random guy's blog in the internet.

I would but the manual says nothing about running in, hence my question, there seems to be loads of good suggestions on here so am happy to take their advice.

[Dilinger]

The approach i have been advised by numerous people i respect and trust is the following.

From 0 to around 2500km -3500km be gentle and not redline it.
(3000-3500 rpm for Diesels & 4000-4500 rpm for Petrol).

From then on, gradually start to increase the revs, but not suddently redlining it.

250 rpm to 500 rpm more after some hundrets of km's, patiently until the car arrives at 5000-7000km.

This would allow the whole car (chassis,suspension,brakes and all peripherals) to break in naturally.

You should consider the car an Athlete, warming it up and preparing it for the Game, so gradually pushing its potentials/limits.

The key is GRADUALLY.
And as others have very well mentioned..avoid driving at a steady speed, when the car is new.
You need variant speed and load within reasonable limits..

All these should be done, after the car is warmed up properly each time, and i dont mean just warming up the engine water temperature, but more importantly the oil.
I know with these cars, you are not even able to get info on water temperature. Oil temperature is out of the question too, unfortunately.

Now others might have different opinion, and to each his own, but i think this is the most conservative and cautious approach to running-in procedure.

[Berkshirebob]

Slightly different approach than the poster above..

Company funded car - I don’t care how it’s run in, nor it’s longevity.
Half the cars on the road are leases, and you can bet the ‘owners’ don’t care either.
Plus how long is the original buyer of the car going to keep it? Outside of warranty? - again why would you care?

You may not agree with me or think I’m a berk but all new cars I get have been abused from day 1. Apologies to the unfortunate private buyer perhaps..

[Dilinger]

Originally Posted by Berkshirebob

Slightly different approach than the poster above..

Company funded car - I don’t care how it’s run in, nor it’s longevity.
Half the cars on the road are leases, and you can bet the ‘owners’ don’t care either.
Plus how long is the original buyer of the car going to keep it? Outside of warranty? - again why would you care?

You may not agree with me or think I’m a berk but all new cars I get have been abused from day 1. Apologies to the unfortunate private buyer perhaps..

Well noted, that is why i avoid buying second hand..
For me, it's not only about longevity, but mainly about troublesome ownership and respect for the car.
Babying the car and respecting it, are 2 different things.