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700/900 Series General Forum for the Volvo 740, 760, 780, 940, 960 & S/V90 cars |
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Redblock turbo - running problemsViews : 2595 Replies : 50Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Jun 19th, 2019, 02:07 | #11 |
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It shoud run well even its had a hard life, but red blocks are not refined engines. The idle is nearly always lumpy.
300 conversion issues: Does it have the lambda light wired up? Does it have a speed senor? The LH2.4 doesn't like not having a speed sensor and giving full power, it punishes you with high idle. Throttle bodies need cleaned every so often, buy a can of intake cleaners. Idle valve can get a bit sloppy in their old age. Make sure the disty isn't oily, best to convert to bock mounted disty or even better go distributorless, there is a conversion available. I wanted a quiet filter for my sleeper 360 turbo, but can't find anything nice that fits. |
Jun 19th, 2019, 20:43 | #12 | ||||
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First, thanks everyone for the replies. I'm going to try to work my way through and answer as many questions as possible!
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2) No idea - googling suggests I have to remove a bearing cap to find out? 3) Part number 9186340. Google suggests these are from later engines, similar fuel output but better nozzle pattern. 4) Not a clue - how would I find out? 5) Standard downpipe, and I made the previous owner a new stainless system for it. Can't remember the tube diameter offhand, but it's got 3 silencers to keep it quiet. The downpipe does have a ding in it which won't help flow... 6) Plugs appear to be Bosch. Can't vouch for gap. Leads don't have a brand name but are silicone and appear new. Quote:
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2) How do I tell the microswitch? I couldn't see anything immediately obvious... but I'm more used to mechanical injection or carbs Will clean the flame traps and oil separator tomorrow I didn't realise you could adjust idle speed on 2.4. If I read it right, I have to: Earth a red/white wire (which end - to ECU or to engine?) and then set throttle? Correct? Quote:
No vehicle speed sensor that I know of - is that what you meant? For air filter, I'm thinking a pipe back to the passenger side of the engine bay (where I have a lot of space) might work. Or relocate the battery there and use something from a production car like this: Pipe diameters and overall dimensions permitting, of course. |
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Jun 19th, 2019, 20:51 | #13 |
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The LH2.2 also has a CPS Jim. YOu're not meant to adjust the idle speed on an LH but if some muppet has (to get round a bad idle because the ICV is blcoked for example) then there is a basic set-up procedure. That's what the red/white wire is for.
Nearly forgot - no Lambda = 2.2, Lambda =2.4
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Cheers Dave Next Door to Top-Gun with a Honda CR-V & S Type Jag Volvo gone but not forgotten........ Last edited by Laird Scooby; Jun 19th, 2019 at 21:03. |
Jun 19th, 2019, 21:08 | #14 | |
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Will start by unblocking all the breathers tomorrow, and go from there. Easiest to start with the basics |
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Jun 19th, 2019, 21:19 | #15 |
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the LH3.1, called regina, is with a cps too.
the LH2.2 is without. the 3.1 crap is more commoun at the country which trys to be great again (fail) you can't adjust the idle at a LH2.4 .the procedure is to set the minimum idle speed. if the speed sensor is missing the engine will dy or fail with a high idle after high speed and of accelerator. To check if the ECU and the ICU (EZK) is chipped yo have to open them. the cam you will find out if you remove the dizzy full and spy with a mirror. If it won't rev more than 5500rpm it will be with a T cam good night, Kay |
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Jun 19th, 2019, 21:59 | #16 | |
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Quote:
On a B280E admittedly but it's a CPS on an LH2.2 The idle speed can't be adjusted but believe me, some idiots have! After cleaning the EICV because of a poo idle, it wouldn't get below about 1200rpm even when hot. The idle was even worse as well. What is the Bosch number on the injectors Jim? Shows where to find it. Have you checked the output of the Lambda sensor as well? Voltmeter on 0-1V setting, should be about 0.445V on average but rising and falling as the ECU does its thing around that point (stoichiometric) - higher and it's running rich, lower and it's running lean. If it's not rising up/down and obviously running rich, suspect the Lambda has failed. Also worth checking the cam timing and condition of the timing belt, also that the correct belt has been fitted. Some engines have square toothed pulleys, others round toothed pulleys, the belts are not interchangeable.
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Cheers Dave Next Door to Top-Gun with a Honda CR-V & S Type Jag Volvo gone but not forgotten........ |
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Jun 20th, 2019, 06:02 | #17 |
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Aaah a 6 banger
I all ways forget this animals. The only 6 banger volvo I did work on till now are k-jet (cis) LH2.2 4 banger are without the cps The Regina turbo are even with 2 if them Have a nice day Dave, regards Kay |
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Jun 20th, 2019, 08:58 | #18 |
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Thanks for clearing that up Kay!
It begs the question of Volvo/Bosch about consistency though, all other LH2.2 i've ever seen have had a CPS including Vauxhalls where a bracket and modified crank pulley was fitted to accomodate the CPS indicating that it was a retro-fit system. If memory serves, Ford used similar items to fit the LH to engines previously fitted with L/LE Jetronic. This was regardless of number of cylinders/engine capacity.
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Jun 21st, 2019, 10:32 | #19 |
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Thanks for the help. Lambda sensor has 3 wires (1 black, 2 white) - which should I be trying to read this from? Injector part number, I believe, is 0 280 155 831 But I've not done a physical check on the vehicle... may be a bit busy the next few days before I can do that! |
Jun 21st, 2019, 11:08 | #20 |
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The white wires are the heater for the Lambda and the black is the signal wire Jim. You should have +12V with the engine running on one black wire and 0V on the other as it goes to earth. The black wire should be between 0-1V as described with respect to 0V/earth.
Also worth checking before you start what the resistance of the heater is - should be 2-3 Ohms cold and 7-14 Ohms hot. It gets up to about 350C so be careful if you do it hot!
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