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PV, 120 (Amazon), 1800 General Forum for the Volvo PV, 120 and 1800 cars |
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Volvo PV444 wins 1957 Petit Lemans at Lime Rock!Views : 86830 Replies : 281Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Aug 19th, 2019, 22:26 | #151 |
marches on his stomach
Last Online: Feb 11th, 2022 03:15
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Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
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You can count the number of teeth on a pinion and crown wheel or try and count the revolutions "in" and "out" to check the differential.
(I'm not 100% up to speed on the history of PV444 but thought that by the time of the 544 only the commercial versions had the 4.5 rear end) I believe both the three speed and four speed gearboxes have a final drive ratio of 1:1 so if you're talking about top gear speed comparisons the difference in gearbox doesn't have an effect (only for lower gears) There are many on line tyre and transmission combination calculators out there to help you figure out the potential top speed or a road speed at a particular engine speed if you don't fancy calculating the values yourself (simple maths really)... ...but as mentioned above a flat road and a navigation nanny / clever telephone will be pretty accurate for an estimation of true road speed.
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1961 Volvo PV544 the quick and easy in between project(!) 1981 Mercedes 300D <=> 230 diesel to petrol conversion project 1965 Series 2a Station Wagon mega build 1992 Mercedes 190E The car that works! |
Aug 20th, 2019, 12:00 | #152 |
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Funny you should mention...
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Aug 21st, 2019, 13:29 | #153 |
arcturus
Last Online: Today 08:14
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Location: Sagres Portugal
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On the other hand, you have made it easier for a car thief!
Seriously, if you need to be reminded there some quite good drugs which slow down the effects of Alzheimer
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life's too short to drink bad wine |
Aug 21st, 2019, 14:08 | #154 |
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Location: New Milford, Connecticut
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None of the guys in the local car thief club know how to operate a manual transmission anymore, so even if they can start the car, they won't get too far too fast.
Plus my car is hardly worth a year in the slammer. |
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Aug 26th, 2019, 12:02 | #155 |
Junior Member
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I made this for shipping the car when I moved last year; otherwise, it stays stashed away. Guess I'd use it again if I left it at a shop, assuming that I ever found one that works on ancient Volvos.
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Aug 26th, 2019, 15:55 | #156 |
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Last Online: Today 10:20
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Location: Connecticut, USA
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Arcturus;
My "Alternate Party Starting Advisory" is similar, but just a little more rustic than Chris'...it consists of a piece of yellow tape with the following lettered on: DO NOT TURN KEY TO MOMENTARY START POSITION! TO START, TURN IGNITION ON WITH KEY, THEN PRESS START BUTTON! Cheers |
Sep 11th, 2019, 21:32 | #157 |
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Last Online: Apr 25th, 2024 13:36
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Location: New Milford, Connecticut
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Took the car for a drive today, maybe 50 miles. Not much traffic. Didn't leave me stranded, so can't complain about anything.
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Sep 18th, 2019, 19:57 | #158 |
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Last Online: Apr 25th, 2024 13:36
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Location: New Milford, Connecticut
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I believe the car has a PV544 boot hinge, which causes the boot to have a hunchback which will leak water.
Found the old hinge in the spares and assessed. Then got out the welder and added some new tips to the working mechanism. Quite happy how it came out since I am a complete newbie with the welder. Plan to paint and reinstall. |
Oct 9th, 2019, 12:55 | #159 |
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Started on my effort to replace the door cards and window felts.
I had a difficult time removing the door and window crank handles. The door and window handles on the '57 PV444 have 4 holes for pins, but only 2 are used. The 4 holes are at 90 degrees to each other. So I missed this fact, and was I was working on the two unused holes. My effort to pound out the pins wasn't pounding on any pins at all, just the inner shaft. Two nights later, once I saw the additional holes, the pins came right out. Each pin about 1" long. Not original as one was the tip of a nail. I removed the door card which is in sad shape, disassembled the remainder of the window frame and ordered some parts. The window frame was pretty easy to disassemble. The door has a separate piece of trim that is screwed on around the entire window area perimeter. The only real trick was that the triangular vent window comes off with this piece. The rubber seals for this window are partly on this surround piece and partly on the front of the chrome vertical piece that separates the vent and main windows. It took a bit to work these apart. Once this surround trim and vent window is off, just a four screws hold the two window tracks and one screw and a clip hold the window to the crank mechanism. I removed these and lifted out the tracks with a bit of twisting of the longer front track. Then I lifted out the window. Very dirty, but not much rust inside the door. |
Oct 20th, 2019, 13:44 | #160 |
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For the past several days, I’ve been working on the driver’s side door and the boot lid.
Having repaired the original boot hinge by welding a new “tip” into the worn mechanism, I painted it up and finally installed. I spent an entire evening trying to line the boot lid up so that it opened and closed correctly, but I’m close and think I will make some shims so that it fits even better. But for now it is good enough, as my next big task will be to remove and replace the rubber seal and do some rust repair around the edges of the lid and the rear clip. My main task, however, has been to repair a couple of major defects in the paint on the driver’s door, replace the window felts, maybe replace the rubber seals on the vent window and replace the door card. Derek referred me to this excellent video on replacing the window felts and the vent seal. I wish I had it before I started. https://youtu.be/IHzHGMkpRB4 It looked like something heavy had fallen into the door and there was a dent just above and to the left of the door handle. Access from the interior was very limited, and I was only partially successful in pounding the dent out from the inside, using a dolly as my hammer. And some rust where at the vertical piece that separates the main from the vent window. I used some body filler to even things out, and then primed and painted the area of the door above the trim line, the door edge and the interior using some rattle can paint. Not perfectly happy with the result, as I will need to do some wet sanding and polishing. But I’ll give myself a B-, as I think it will be an improvement. The interior of the door had 60 years of dirt, but not very rusty. I gave it a thorough cleaning, treated with some metal etch, then used some Eastwood Rust Encapsulator on the rusty area along the front and the bottom of the door. The piece that holds the window was quite rusty, however. I cleaned this up and painted with POR 15 for future rust protection. Today’s task is to start making up the door card. I’ve opted to go with APB plastic, which is black, so I’m not sure exactly how I will do the layout. The old door card is quite warped and the lower portion is disintegrated, so its use as a template will be limited. And I’m not sure how I will attach. I think I want to use nylon “pine tree” buttons, but lining up all of the holes will prove burdensome, so perhaps I will simply screw on. The door “armrest/pull” handle will be a puzzle. The handle seems to point downward at about a 30 degree angle. The supports appear to be aluminium or some other cast metal that does not appear bendable. I’m not sure if the handle is supposed to be that way, or if it is supposed to be supported by a triangular shim to straighten it out. |
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