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Help making a comprehensive S/V40 buying guide

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Old Aug 15th, 2012, 13:24   #1
gatos
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Default Help making a comprehensive S/V40 buying guide

Quite a few new people are asking for an S/V40 buying guide

I was thinking of something along the lines of 4 or maybe 5 Categories

This is what I have put together until now and I am sure I have some errors and missed a few things. So please comment and I will update the draft.
-
-
-
DRAFT

1. General buying tips
  • Comprehensive service history either main dealer or recognized independent with as many receipts as possible
  • Timing belt should be done at around 80,000 miles intervals. Check when the timing belt was replaced and ideally ask for receipt as proof
  • Don't view the car in the rain or in the evening as you might miss scratches, dents and other problems.
  • Listen to the engine for any rattles or squeaks
  • When test driving listen for knocking on rough road surface/bumps (suspension top mount bush or drop links failing)
  • Listen for clicking on full lock left and right (CV joint wear)
  • Make sure the gearbox changes are nice and smooth
  • Apply and release the handbrake and make sure the car rolls easy, to check the rear calliper hand brake mechanism is not seized
  • Make sure all electrics/heater/headlight controls are working correctly and that AC (if fitted) is blowing nice and cold.
  • Hazard light switch and heater controls panel are prone to fail
  • Lock and unlock the car with the fob to check the alarm arms correctly. Also, unlock the car with the fob, but don't open the doors. The car should lock itself after a few minutes.
  • Check the spare wheel are for any signs of water ingress
  • Look for wear on driver’s seat and interior trim as an indication of how the car has been looked after internally

2. Engine bay area
  • Check for any obvious signs of oil or other fluid leaks in the engine bay and on the ground
  • Check for any signs of emulsification (white thick creamy substance) under oil filler cap and / or oil in the radiator header tank (coolant in engine, indicating failing head gasket
  • Check the engine mounts - bonnet up, into gear with handbrake on and let clutch part out quite quickly. If it knocks, will need doing
  • Check lower radiator hose jubillee clip as it's prone to rusting and can break causing major engine damage. Stainless steel replacement one is cheap and easy to do

3. Exterior
  • Look for smoky/blowing exhaust on start up and idling
  • Check brake discs to see how worn they are and if there is excessive rust. Also check the left and right pads to see if wear is even side to side.
  • Check for rust the edges of both front wings near the wheel arches and specially close to the sideskirt
  • Check for rust the edges of both rear wheel arches and specially close to the sideskirt

4. More detailed things to check
  • Check the metal brake pipes running from the engine bay and all the way under the car for signs of corrosion
  • Check the wiring harness directly beneath the radiator for water ingress and subsequent corrosion of the wiring leading to electrical faults

5. Car spesific things to check

Phase 1 (1996-2000) Petrol 1.8 2.0, 2.0T, T4

Phase 1 (1996-2000) Diesel 1.9TD

Phase 2 (2000-2004) Petrol 1.6, 1.8 2.0, 2.0T, T4
Phase 2 (2000-2004) Petrol 1.8i GDI

Phase 2 (2000-2004) Diesel 1.9D
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Last edited by gatos; Aug 15th, 2012 at 16:11.
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Old Aug 15th, 2012, 13:33   #2
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Looking good!

Might be worth mentioning to check the alarm arms correctly: the bonnet switch problem. Also might be worth flagging up that if you unlock the car but don't then open the doors, it re-locks itself after a few minutes.
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Old Aug 15th, 2012, 13:42   #3
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On the brake section you could add - visual inspection of left and right pads to see if wear is even side to side.
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Old Aug 15th, 2012, 13:44   #4
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Good points. Add them to the 1. General buying tips section?
How does this sound:
Quote:
Lock and unlock the car with the fob to check the alarm arms correctly. Also, unlock the car with the fob, but don't open the doors. The car should lock itself after a few minutes.
Does this sound ok?

Quote:
[*]Also check the left and right pads to see if wear is even side to side.
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Last edited by gatos; Aug 15th, 2012 at 13:50.
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Old Aug 15th, 2012, 15:57   #5
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Thumbs up Vvt

Wow, that's a comprehensive guide if ever I saw one. Nice work.

Not sure how relevant this is but I seem to recall reading (probably on here) that VVT was only fitted after a certain date, so x40's prior to this would not be afflicted.
If this is correct is it then worth while including the info?
Too late for me, I've already had to lash out on both VVT and timing belt!
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Old Aug 15th, 2012, 16:09   #6
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My bad. I had that in mind and that is why i made a list of different cars at the bottom. ie Phase 2 (2000-2004) Petrol 1.6, 1.8 2.0, 2.0T, T4

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Old Aug 15th, 2012, 16:32   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gatos View Post
Good points. Add them to the 1. General buying tips section?
How does this sound:


Does this sound ok?
Can I suggest a slight addition?

"Lock and unlock the car with the fob to check the alarm arms correctly (direction indicators should flash once). Also, unlock the car with the fob, but don't open the doors. The car should lock itself after a few minutes."

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2012 Ford Mondeo 2.2 TDCi estate
1999 Land Rover Discovery 2 TD5
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Old Aug 15th, 2012, 16:49   #8
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Please do so. The more feedback, the better.

EDITED

Quote:
Originally Posted by gatos View Post
Quite a few new people are asking for an S/V40 buying guide

I was thinking of something along the lines of 4 or maybe 5 Categories

This is what I have put together until now and I am sure I have some errors and missed a few things. So please comment and I will update the draft.
-
-
-
DRAFT

1. General buying tips
  • Comprehensive service history either main dealer or recognized independent with as many receipts as possible
  • Timing belt should be done at around 80,000 miles intervals. Check when the timing belt was replaced and ideally ask for receipt as proof
  • Don't view the car in the rain or in the evening as you might miss scratches, dents and other problems.
  • Listen to the engine for any rattles or squeaks
  • When test driving listen for knocking on rough road surface/bumps (suspension top mount bush or drop links failing)
  • Listen for clicking on full lock left and right (CV joint wear)
  • Make sure the gearbox changes are nice and smooth
  • Apply and release the handbrake and make sure the car rolls easy, to check the rear calliper hand brake mechanism is not seized
  • Make sure all electrics/heater/headlight controls are working correctly and that AC (if fitted) is blowing nice and cold.
  • Hazard light switch and heater controls panel are prone to fail
  • Lock and unlock the car with the fob to check the alarm arms correctly (direction indicators should flash once). Also, unlock the car with the fob, but don't open the doors. The car should lock itself after a few minutes.
  • Check the spare wheel are for any signs of water ingress
  • Look for wear on driver’s seat and interior trim as an indication of how the car has been looked after internally

2. Engine bay area
  • Check for any obvious signs of oil or other fluid leaks in the engine bay and on the ground
  • Check for any signs of emulsification (white thick creamy substance) under oil filler cap and / or oil in the radiator header tank (coolant in engine, indicating failing head gasket
  • Check the engine mounts - bonnet up, into gear with handbrake on and let clutch part out quite quickly. If it knocks, will need doing
  • Check lower radiator hose jubillee clip as it's prone to rusting and can break causing major engine damage. Stainless steel replacement one is cheap and easy to do

3. Exterior
  • Look for smoky/blowing exhaust on start up and idling
  • Check brake discs to see how worn they are and if there is excessive rust. Also check the left and right pads to see if wear is even side to side.
  • Check for rust the edges of both front wings near the wheel arches and specially close to the sideskirt
  • Check for rust the edges of both rear wheel arches and specially close to the sideskirt

4. More detailed things to check
  • Check the metal brake pipes running from the engine bay and all the way under the car for signs of corrosion
  • Check the wiring harness directly beneath the radiator for water ingress and subsequent corrosion of the wiring leading to electrical faults

5. Car spesific things to check

Phase 1 (1996-2000) Petrol 1.8 2.0, 2.0T, T4

Phase 1 (1996-2000) Diesel 1.9TD

Phase 2 (2000-2004) Petrol 1.6, 1.8 2.0, 2.0T, T4
Phase 2 (2000-2004) Petrol 1.8i GDI

Phase 2 (2000-2004) Diesel 1.9D
__________________
Current car: 2002 S40 1.9D, 1992 240SE

Nullius in Verba
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Old Aug 15th, 2012, 18:11   #9
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Sorry Gatos, just occurred to me. As well as checking oil filler cap and header tank, check the dipstick for emulsified oil as this might indicate blocked pcv.
Only other thing (being really picky) is specific!
Really sorry about that after all the hard work you've put into it.
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Old Aug 15th, 2012, 18:32   #10
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No need to apologise this is a draft and when it's finished, I will the post a new thread
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