Help making a comprehensive S/V40 buying guide

[gatos]

Originally Posted by Alex121

Hard to inspect yes, but doesn't hurt to ask the current owner if it's been done just for a bit more piece of mind

Great guide btw.

Cheers

Fair point. Will add it in. Thanks

[gatos]

This is the updated version. Guys and girls, please feel free to make any corrections, including spelling and grammar mistakes, as English is not my mother tongue

DRAFT

1. General buying tips

• Comprehensive service history either main dealer or recognized independent with as many receipts as possible
• Timing belt should be done at around 80,000 miles or 8 years for all petrol cars and 72,000 miles or 6 years for the diesel cars. Check when the timing belt was replaced and ideally ask for receipt as proof
• Don't view the car in the rain or in the evening as you might miss scratches, dents and other problems
• Listen to the engine for any rattles or squeaks
• Check engine gets up to the correct temp after a 4-5 minutes or 2 or so miles (Temperature needle should be at the middle)
• When test driving listen for knocking on rough road surface/bumps (suspension top mount bush or drop links failing)
• Listen for clicking on full lock left and right (CV joint wear)
• Make sure the gearbox changes are nice and smooth. Phase 1 (1996-2000) 1.8 and 2.0 and Phase 2 (2000-2004) 1.6 and 1.8 S/V40s have the Renault M3P or M5P gearboxes were the gear lever bushes get worn and gear lever feels sloppy. Cheap and easy to fix. See here: http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=80433
• Apply and release the handbrake and make sure the car rolls easy, to check the rear calliper hand brake mechanism is not seized
• Make sure all electrics/heater/headlight controls are working correctly and that AC (if fitted) is blowing nice and cold. Hazard light switch, heater controls panel and headlamp wipers are common failures
• Lock and unlock the car with the fob to check the alarm arms correctly. Also, unlock the car with the fob, but don't open the doors. The car should lock itself after a few minutes. If not then there could be an issue with the alarm
• Check the spare wheel are for any signs of water ingress
• Look for wear on driver’s seat and interior trim as an indication of how the car has been looked after internally
• Ask the seller if he knows when the suspension bushes and top mounts were replaced (if they have been replaced)

2. Engine bay area

• Check for any obvious signs of oil or other fluid leaks in the engine bay and on the ground
• Check for any signs of emulsification (white thick creamy substance) under oil filler cap and / or oil in the radiator header tank (coolant in engine, indicating failing head gasket)
• On petrol cars only, lift the oil filler cap with the engine running and see if there is suction or a blowing air. You should expect a bit of suction; otherwise PCV may be blocked
• Check the dipstick for emulsified oil as this might indicate blocked PCV
• Check the engine mounts - bonnet up, into gear with handbrake on and let clutch part out quite quickly. If it knocks, will need doing
• Check lower radiator hose jubilee clip as it's prone to rusting and can break causing major engine damage. Stainless steel replacement one is cheap and easy to do
• With the engine running, check the exhaust manifold (at the rear of the engine) to see if it's blowing any air. Applies to the turbo models only

3. Exterior

• Look for smokey/blowing exhaust on start up and idling
• Check for uneven tyre wear
• Check front suspension by grabbing the wheel and pushing/ pulling on either side to check for any play
• Check brake discs to see how worn they are and if there is excessive rust. Also check the left and right pads to see if wear is even side to side
• Check all four brake flexi hoses for any cracks or splits
• Check for rust the edges of both front wings near the wheel arches and specially close to the sideskirt
• Check for rust the edges of both rear wheel arches and specially close to the sideskirt

4. More detailed things to check

• Check the metal brake pipes running from the engine bay and all the way under the car for signs of corrosion
• Check the wiring harness directly beneath the radiator for water ingress and subsequent corrosion of the wiring leading to electrical faults
• Check that the VVT solenoid connector is plugged in. Applies only to the Phase 2 (2000-2004) Petrol cars 1.6, 1.8 2.0, 2.0T, T4). See guide here for more info
  http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showth...ighlight=guide

[The Improver]

This could be a possible.

Having driven the car, touch the wheels with your finger tips to find any hot wheels, with care. This would possibly indicate faulty/seized brake calipers. Easier on alloys than steels.

I've just unfortunately experienced this myself!

[gatos]

Originally Posted by The Improver

This could be a possible.

Having driven the car, touch the wheels with your finger tips to find any hot wheels, with care. This would possibly indicate faulty/seized brake calipers. Easier on alloys than steels.

I've just unfortunately experienced this myself!

Good point. Will add it on

[rexer12]

The Draft is looking very good alex,

[S40 Squared]

What about driving off/on a path with a raised edge with the window open to listen for creaky rear suspension and sheared springs (just replaced the rears on both my S40's). Definite creak when you drive on/off the drive, but all sorted now.

Failing that, rocking the car/pushing down at rear to also listen for creaky suspension (due to potholed UK roads).

[Rachony]

What about how many keys they have? Spare keys cost a fortune... Quite easy to check too.

[stephend]

If it's got locking wheel-nuts, check it has the key for removing them!

[gatos]

All good suggestions. WIll be added and I will update and post the guide tonight

[Cornishv40]

Hi alex. what about a mention about turbo's, on diesels?...... when replaced, (100 to 150 k) if been replace etc...... and by who?.......... may be?