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Guide to replace rear brakes on S60/V70

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Old Aug 17th, 2010, 16:49   #21
dzidek
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Thanks m8 for a great Guide.
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Old Aug 30th, 2010, 23:09   #22
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thanks for good info
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Old Sep 28th, 2010, 20:37   #23
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Nice write up, many thanks.
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Old Oct 17th, 2010, 17:39   #24
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Just done the job today on the 2004 S60, thanks for the guide. The lower brake shoes looked a little rusty and the braking material was in the first stages of coming off!!! Just got my V70 (older) to do next weekend - should I replace the springs also, in particular the smaller spring at the front of the shoes - cam you buy them from volvo?
Good price from eurocar parts for the brakes as well.

regards

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Old Oct 20th, 2010, 09:20   #25
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Great write up, answered the question I had re handbrakes, movement, banging and sticking, guess what I'll be doing this weekend
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Old Oct 20th, 2010, 10:18   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tykey View Post
I've just done mine, and was confused by this. Even with new shoes, and when tightened, you can still rotate the wheel a bit.

Remember the pads tighten up in the drums, but aren't fixed to the hub in any way and still rotate a bit with the drum until it reaches the "stop". When the wheel is still jacked up you can rotate the wheel each way about 20deg until it hits the stop with a clunk.
mine does the same...my tame technician said nothing to worry about all normal and it is just the way they are on these cars
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Old Nov 19th, 2010, 15:59   #27
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More thanks for the great write up and pics.

My trusted mechanic will do the job for £60.00 labour.

I've bought Mintex shoes = £24.00 from Ebay but have found Pagid shoes from Europarts = £18.20

Decision time - £60.00 or a DIY job (my work is quiet atmo) Decisions!
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Old Dec 8th, 2010, 19:40   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bogart View Post
Currently got the wheel, pads off etc but damned if I can get the disc off.
Tried heating it, freezing it,copious amounts of WD40, solid as a rock.

I don't want to start thumping it too hard, been using a club hammer and a block of wood.
I've tapped around the edge and on the rear face of the disc, might as well be welded on for all the difference it seems to have made. Am going to replace the discs so not bothered if the are mangled. Reluctant to start really thumping it in case I damage the wheel bearing.
Had enough today , out with the angle grinder tomorrow!
Got stuck with the same problem today doing this job DIY.

Rang my trusty mechanic and he kindly told me to give the front of the drum part of the disc a really hard whack with a copper hammer and the disc will burst off.

I never had a copper hammer but had a few old brake pads so placed one of them on the disc, lining side to the disc's brake drum front face and gave it a few good good welts with a hammer.

Nothing happened.

On the point of giving up I took one last heavier swipe and bingo, off it sprang!!!!

Other side was a doddle once edumacated.

Had a bit of trouble with the springs but won and now the job's a good 'un.

MOT pass 1 hour later.

BTW - all the linings had left the shoes but only were 2 retrieved, the other 2 went awol.
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Last edited by Aardvark S60; Dec 8th, 2010 at 21:11.
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Old Feb 2nd, 2011, 19:44   #29
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Does anyone have a clear pic of where the spring in the centre of the hub goes? I have just done the rear discs on mine and noticed although shows were still intact, one has a crack in. Waiting for shoes to arrive. Centre spring seemed to stick out from the hub and did not look as though it was connected to anything! Think it was Only the two springs either side holding shoes together....any ideas? Cheers
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Old Feb 4th, 2011, 17:02   #30
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when changing the rear brakes in my 960 which is a very similar setup as the old 240 as well i fitted a large hose clip over the shoes once in position to hold them secure while i put the rest of the springs on its a third hand that never gets tired and makes the job so easy
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