Rust on suspension, should I fix that?

[volvolv]

As you can see in the pictures both sides are covered with the rust. One side has no hole inside, but the other one has a bit hole, should I change them (looks like welding) or at least try some spray so rust is not spreading?

p.s. I couldn't upload any picture on the forum, so I have to use external website.

http://i.imgur.com/WDP8few.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/9bBJa2a.jpg

[Rossi-fan]

Looks like surface rust to me, will it not rub off?

[XC70Bob]

It looks to me like something has been spilt that has stripped the paint allowing rust to form.
The top of the suspension is the last place you want rust eating in to the metal work, if it were mine I would use one of the rust converter products to kill the rust and then pre-print the affected area.

[oragex]

Really bad news. It is not surface rust. It started underneath the strut tower and it's death for the S60/V70. Very common issue, the strut bearing mount is metal and sits against the strut tower (the part of the chassis in the pictures) causing the paint underneath the tower to crack, forming rust. In time, the tower will rust from underneath and pierce. I've seen lots of cars like this at the grave yard. Several had welding repairs, but once the tower metal gets thinner not much you can do
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h-wGx1LnnuA

For all users, I'd recommend removing the strut assembly, look with a flash light underneath the strut tower for rust, apply an anti-rust coat and perhaps a thin piece of strong rubber before reinstalling the strut assembly.

[Georgeandkira]

FOR GOD'S SAKE---YEAR, MILEAGE, PREVIOUS REPAIR HISTORY
thank you

If your struts are shot NOW is the perfect time to do them.
And even if they're not shot.....Go in there (as stated above) by removing the struts and remove the rust with a wire wheel and hit the tower with a rust converter and be generous with the stuff.

If you don't have a game mechanic...it's time you get one or learn. This is a basic operation. Don't let some chain shop do it. They'll install the new struts and lie to you about having done it.

Kill that malignancy NOW. Don't act like you don't know what to do.

[Clan]

Originally Posted by volvolv

As you can see in the pictures both sides are covered with the rust. One side has no hole inside, but the other one has a bit hole, should I change them (looks like welding) or at least try some spray so rust is not spreading?

p.s. I couldn't upload any picture on the forum, so I have to use external website.

http://i.imgur.com/WDP8few.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/9bBJa2a.jpg

It is too late to do anything with paint get a screw driver and you will be able to poke a hole through . Despite what was said above about this being common ( he doesn't live in UK ) I have never seen anything like that before having seen many of these cars each day for decades .. Volvo do have a 12 year perforation warranty , might be worth contacting them .. I guess the body checks must be up to date in the service book though ..
Very surprising for a galvanised part ..
It will be an easy welding repair though , once the struts are off plenty of room to cut out the rust and weld in some good metal . The MOT man will fail that ...

[volvolv]

Thanks for the information. What kind of spray or method should I use to avoid further problems? Is it time to get to the garage or spray will help for a while?

[oragex]

Some people use http://www.por15.com/ on rusted surfaces. No idea if it'd help at this point. You still have a 2-3 years of life from what it looks now. By the past I've used epoxy resin to cover rust on the body and it kept the rust from progressing. But in your situation, it must be applied in the first place under the tower where the strut puts heavy pressure, so not sure how any 'treatment' will stand such pressure. If looking for long term, perhaps taking it to a garage to cut and weld a fresh piece of steel is the safest option. I've seen till now about 6-7 S60 and S80 at the breakers with this issue (but yes, it's Canada so the rust is more aggressive here), half of them had various plates of metal weld in place. My 2003 also has rust underneath on both sides, hopefully got it in time and it's just surface rust.

[canis]

If you can poke a screwdriver through it, you must. It's the only way to be certain there's any strength left. And if there isn't, all your farting about with unicorn horn rust converter magic potions will achieve nothing.

If the metal is sound, you should abrade away the rust, then prime it and paint it. Both sides. It may be quite a fiddle, you might even need to remove the chassis leg to get access. Paint the underneath the same as the top, and then apply underseal on top of the paint. Any colour will do, it's under the bonnet after all.

If the metal is not sound, and you plunge the screwdriver through easily, then it'll need plating or even cutting out and a new turret put in. I hope they don't mind me hotlinking their image, but I found this picture online:


Here you can see the turret has been replaced with perhaps a pattern part, but you could also get one cut off at a breakers. This is serious metalwork, though, and you really need to know your stuff and be competent at welding. A decent bodyshop would be able to perform the work.

With any luck you've caught it in time, and hopefully it won't come to that.

[kenny]

Originally Posted by canis

If you can poke a screwdriver through it, you must. It's the only way to be certain there's any strength left. And if there isn't, all your farting about with unicorn horn rust converter magic potions will achieve nothing.

If the metal is sound, you should abrade away the rust, then prime it and paint it. Both sides. It may be quite a fiddle, you might even need to remove the chassis leg to get access. Paint the underneath the same as the top, and then apply underseal on top of the paint. Any colour will do, it's under the bonnet after all.

If the metal is not sound, and you plunge the screwdriver through easily, then it'll need plating or even cutting out and a new turret put in. I hope they don't mind me hotlinking their image, but I found this picture online:


Here you can see the turret has been replaced with perhaps a pattern part, but you could also get one cut off at a breakers. This is serious metalwork, though, and you really need to know your stuff and be competent at welding. A decent bodyshop would be able to perform the work.

With any luck you've caught it in time, and hopefully it won't come to that.

Who ever welded that needs shot. What a bloody mess.