Service Issues: Routine Service - Routine Really...

[bobdabuilda]

Miti- any toptips on peeling the tailgate fascia off? Is there a good workshop manual that you recommend for the xc90?

[Miti]

Originally Posted by bobdabuilda

Miti- any toptips on peeling the tailgate fascia off? Is there a good workshop manual that you recommend for the xc90?

The trim panel is held on by pop-in trim buttons. They're prone to breaking when being removed (especially in the cold weather), so a trim tool is a good investment:



Mine is a Kamasa tool that came with a set of screwdrivers, but the basic principal is the same... You slide the tool twixt panel and door and locate the forked end around the trim clip... Lever down and the clip is loose... To refit the clips, locate in their respective holes and thump with the heel of your hand (or a rubber mallet if you're a female lady type...)

Manual..?? With the VADIS discs available at £4 a pop on Ebay, who needs a manual..??? click

Admittedly, I haven't checked for post 2006 discs, but I suspect they're available too.. Only caveat I'd mention is that Ovlov seem to have updated a LOT of part numbers and I double check part numbers on t'interweb (Google works) before lashing out cash for spares...

HTH

Miti

[CharlieG]

Thanks Miti. Nice notes and very useful.

I have just joined the Volvo Forum and have also just purchased a very clean "1 owner" MY04 XC90 D5 SE. I have always admired the XC90 and now I own one - albeit 6 years old going on 7!

With 56K and a full Volvo Service History, she will hopefully be reliable.

Your notes seem to indicate that servicing this "beastie" isn't too difficult.

I have ordered (via eBay) a VADIS workshop manual. This hasn't arrived, but I am looking forward to seeing if it works in the first instance!

Anyway, thanks for taking the time to detail your servicing experience.

Kind regards,

Charlie.

[detgnome]

This is a really useful guide and I have found it really useful. I haven't done an oil change in about 13 years - sign of the times I suppose! A few notes to add for anyone considering the same.

Genuine parts obtained from FRF using discount code - Oil, Air, Pollen, Fuel Filters and sump washer. Including postage about £72. You could probably obtain pattern parts for in the region of £50-£60 should you desire.

Oil - what a complicated subject! Spec is 0w-30, which whilst obtainable is not the more common standard of 5W-30. Spec should be ACEA B3 as a minimum (you won't find one that doesn't meet this). Most oils are B5 (B is the diesel spec by the way, A relates to petrol), which relates to extended change periods and some are 'C' rated - this relates to engines with a DPF (not mine - it's a 163bhp). Some have stated that a 'C' rated oil should not be used in the older engines, although all the oil manufacturers list it as compatible. In the end I plumped for Mobil 1 0w-40 turbo diesel as some evidence points to better top end protection in warmer (unlikely in NE Scotland) temps by the -40 part of the oil spec. Probably one of the most expensive at £40 for 5litres, but then again the cheapest I could find was still in the region of £32 for 4 or 5 litres, depending on brand.

Onto the service:

Pollen filter - as Miti stated. The filter actually has ready made cuts in the cardboard sides to facilitate bending whilst inserting.

Oil Change - My sump cover was secured by 10mm bolts. Oil does go a long way sideways when plug removed, causing apologies to my friend, who's garage I had borrowed for the slick on his floor....

Air Filter - Removed MAF as suggested and eventually wrestled the top of the airbox off, replaced filter but replacing the top of the airbox proved tricky due to the locating lugs at the back. Eventually removed the ram air duct (2x bolts on the top of the radiator to allow removal of the complete airbox (although still connected by the MAF cabling) and thus easier fitting of the airbox top.

Fuel Filter - yet to do as lots of expensive diesel still in the tank. As an aside, only required to be replaced every three years.

One question - what's the best way to replace the brake fluid - previous check (before I acquired the car) in March suggested low boiling point. Is a case of bleed each calliper or is there a gucci tool to do this easily?

[Miti]

There is a Gucci tool to drain/refill brake and other fluids, but to realise the benefits of having the tool, you also need a Gucci 2/4-post lift to raise the car high enough to get you and the tool under it...

So, yes, bleeding at each caliper (until the fluid runs noticeably paler) is the way forward on this one...

Miti