Lost speaker sound after battery disconnected

[stuart bowes]

if it was a system I'd installed and I was having these symptoms, I would definitely be questioning if the amp had died somehow, maybe a surge on battery connecting.. was the radio switched on when you reconnected

you can pick them up cheapish on ebay (is this it?)

but still I would be under the seat with a voltmeter first trying to check if has power coming out of the connector. just a total stab in the dark but I would try finding a chunky black cable and assume that's an earth, then go from there to each other (possibly another equally sized red one?) to find 12v

I don't suppose anyone has a pinout diagram for that do they

if that proves ok, then I suppose you have the slightly more difficult task of continuity on the sound cables. my money wouldn't be on damaged cabling though if literally the only thing you did was reconnect the battery and that's when it stopped

[Mattye]

Hey Stuart. Yep thats the amp. Not too great with volt meter but I'll have a go tomorrow. What can go wrong!!!!

[stuart bowes]

[Mattye]

you've seen me with electrics before by the looks of it!!

[stuart bowes]

lol I've shocked myself a bunch of times, the coil pack is the worst one that gives you a pretty decent bang. unless we're talking mains in which case the worst was in a school pulling the fuse on a fire panel and touching the terminals of the PSU lol very nearly swore but stopped myself in time and just said "fffuuuu..."

I dont think the amp connector would do much more than spark briefly then pop a fuse but do try to avoid it just keep anything metallic away from the connector and be very accurate with the probes to keep them separated. you could tape up all but the very tip of each if you're worried about shorting pins by accident

[stuart bowes]

hang on I've just looked again at that Ebay ad.

there's three plugs and one has two pins. im gonna go out on a limb and say thats probably the power connector. wouldnt be suprised that they are seperated to eliminate humming noise

which leaves the round one as signal in from the head unit and the bigger block as output to speakers

someone correct me if that's wrong

[reggit]

Probably right, the connection on the head end is a round plug

[ASt85]

Originally Posted by Mattye

Hi ASt85. Thanks for your comments. I’ve checked the amp under the drivers seat and everything is fine. Nothing loose. Where would I find the connection to the aerial amp and connectors which you mention? Are they in the boot on the passenger side where there are loads of fuses etc?

On the passenger side UK for most models; I'm told some models have aerials in both windows depending upon head unit type (DAB?) - the other rear window wiring on the driver's side is security protection wiring.

[Mattye]

Thanks both again for your input to this. Just one more question. I'm ok to check that the amp is getting power using my volt meter but how to I check if the amp is getting an output from the head unit? For me thats the million dollar question.
As per your comment the round connector would seem to be the cable from the head unit.
Can I use a volt meter? Not sure!!

[stuart bowes]

well it's possible to do a continuity test with most meters, there's usually a symbol for a bell or sounder looking thing, when you touch the probes together it beeps. so you can test a wire that way.

as the connector might be awkward to get the probes into I'd probably poke pins into each hole and use that as a contact

obviously your probe leads are only so long, so for longer runs I use a long piece of wire that already tests ok, or, stick a 9v battery one one end of two terminals and find 9v at the other end (assuming the cable is disconnected at both ends)

the fly lead is probably simpler because you can work progressively around each pin and not get confused which ones you've tested. as long as a few are working though you should get at least one speaker just on the law of averages

hope that makes sense..

I'd check the power first because that seems to be a far more likely suspect if we have no reason to suspect cable damage. that would be a massive coincidence. that is assuming it worked ok before you did the battery thing. im still gambling on a dead amp, if you've got 12v at the power and still no sound