|
PV, 120 (Amazon), 1800 General Forum for the Volvo PV, 120 and 1800 cars |
Information |
|
1800 E/ES wheels - WarningViews : 1646 Replies : 19Users Viewing This Thread : |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
Jun 11th, 2020, 13:52 | #1 |
Member
Last Online: Today 16:58
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Newcastle upon Tyne
|
1800 E/ES wheels - Warning
Hi.
There have been a couple of past threads about these 2 piece wheels and the consequences of 50 British winters on them so, I thought I'd do some destruction testing, also the guy doing my 1800E has had experience with a Dunlop wheel flying apart on a customer's Scimitar and the ES used those. Dip and stripped one and revealed this, severe corrosion of the alloy centre and the steel rivets that secure the rim were almost dissolved away. I'm not saying every wheel out there is as bad, galvanic corrosion is the issue and salt water is the electrolyte in that reaction, those in warmer climes need not worry. David Lawson. https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showt...t=1800e+wheels https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=110446 |
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to LawsonJD For This Useful Post: |
Jun 11th, 2020, 14:07 | #2 |
VOC Member
Last Online: Today 17:01
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Chatham
|
I commented on both of those linked posts so not repeating myself here other than to say if you have these wheels on your car check them VERY carefully and replace if you have the slightest doubt about their integrity. You can be dead right or dead wrong but better alive than dead.
|
The Following User Says Thank You to Derek UK For This Useful Post: |
Jun 11th, 2020, 18:49 | #3 | |
Master Member
Last Online: Mar 26th, 2024 22:24
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Alton
|
Quote:
|
|
Jun 11th, 2020, 20:08 | #4 |
Member
Last Online: Today 16:58
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Newcastle upon Tyne
|
Hi.
My car is a 1971 1800E. 1970-71 Volvo used the Cromodora cloverleaf wheel then changed in 72-73 to the Dunlop/GKN one, both types of wheel are a composite construction of a steel rim riveted to an alloy centre, the Dunlop wheels were also used on Scimitars and the MGBV8. There were companies out there rebuilding the 14" MG & Scimitar Dunlops but as the previous threads have said, they couldn't touch the 15" Volvo one. Sadly I couldn't find anyone who could viably restore mine and I asked loads of people, they all said you'd need so many wheels for us to practice on and it would be so expensive. I was told however that the MGB club had a batch of brand new Dunlop pattern wheels remade by Image Wheels in the Midlands, I've got no idea of production numbers or costings though. David. https://www.imagewheels.co.uk/mg-bil...c-alloy-wheel/ |
The Following User Says Thank You to LawsonJD For This Useful Post: |
Jun 12th, 2020, 11:56 | #5 |
VOC Member
Last Online: Today 17:01
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Chatham
|
£445.80 EACH! Note, you'd likely have to pay more to get the correct bolt pattern.
AFAIK the 1800E ex factory only came with the Cromodora type wheels .The Dunlop type were offered as an extra for the ES. The Dunlop ones are rather rare. More common on the ES are the ones with 5 flat triangular spokes made by Fergat(?). These are available as a repro from CVI. I haven't looked them up but 4 would cost about £6-700 I think. If you like them, perhaps a good alternative. You also see these on 140's. I wish I'd taken photos when I was working at GKN Kent Alloys X-Raying wheels. Lots of the alloy wheels for late 60's and 70's cars were made there. F1 wheels too. |
Jun 12th, 2020, 22:29 | #6 |
Senior Member
Last Online: Dec 29th, 2022 12:47
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Thorndon, near Eye, Suffolk, England
|
I've been a bit of a bore about this.... on my 1970 E, I have replaced my wheels with alloys in a similar, but more modern design. I had a lot of trouble finding a wheel, because the fronts needed to stick out to stop them from touching the anti roll bar, whereas the rears need to be pushed inwards to stop them fouling the wheelarch. I managed it, but needed to have precisely the right measurement wheel.
|
Jan 19th, 2021, 09:20 | #7 |
Chief Bodger
Last Online: Today 16:43
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Aberdeen
|
I’ve bought a set of the Dunlop D4 wheels that were GT extras for the 140 cars. The steel / aluminium ones. Anyone know how the inner and rims are joined together, or how to take them apart? I don’t know if they will be useable or not yet but they were cheap and I have never seen a set for sale here so took a punt. Might just end up being wall art in my workshop but they are a nice bit of Volvo history if nothing else.
Does anyone recondition these if they do just need a little repairing?
__________________
One day I will get rid of all of the rust. |
Jan 19th, 2021, 10:48 | #8 |
Chief Bodger
Last Online: Today 16:43
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Aberdeen
|
This is the style of wheels. I have thrown a set away before which I regret, even if they are not saveable to be used they will look cool on a workshop wall.
__________________
One day I will get rid of all of the rust. Last edited by Burdekin; Jan 19th, 2021 at 10:51. |
Jan 19th, 2021, 16:23 | #9 |
Chief Bodger
Last Online: Today 16:43
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Aberdeen
|
Spoke with the specialist NDT lead engineer from the company we use, he's going to get the techs to have a look at them as a wee project. Fingers crossed they can get some decent results.
__________________
One day I will get rid of all of the rust. |
Jan 19th, 2021, 17:28 | #10 |
Master Member
Last Online: Yesterday 16:59
Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: Saskatchewan, Canada
|
If restoration does not prove feasible, in addition to wall art they can be useful for storing the hose for your air compressor in the workshop. You can also mount them outside to store your garden hose if you are inclined to make that sort of architectural style statement.
I remain baffled that anybody would go to the effort of a two part fabrication with dis similar metals. Was the belief that aluminum rims were not 'up to the job' or was this some kind of cost reduction strategy? Labor and machining costs in the late 60s would have had to be incredibly low to justify the extra effort of having to rivet an aluminum center to the steel rim as opposed to the cost of a one piece aluminum casting. |
The Following User Says Thank You to 142 Guy For This Useful Post: |
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|