Any Advice, Part 2!

[Stephen Edwin]

Originally Posted by Chris152

That's brilliant - thank you Dave.

I think work might have stopped. I decided to loosen the bolts while waiting for the schoolboy, and struggled with the spring retaining one. It took the tops off the thread (see pic), I've cleaned it up and the nut goes on and off ok now, but I'm not happy to just crack on. And Brookhouse aren't answering the phone - the spring retainers I bought didn't come with bolts/ nuts. Hmm...

Edit - Brookhouse are sending one with bolt and nyloc nut fitted first class. We've put the old spring retainer back on so we can refit the wheel and drop it down, and crack on with it over the weekend or as soon as it arrives. The rest have all loosened off fine, so hopefully no more hitches!

Let us consider the bolt's thread to have become suspect.

I have not been paying attention, is this an important component of the car? If so then make no compromise unless absolutely temporarily essential. It sounds as if you are to receive a new bolt. That's the way to do it, said Mr Punch.




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[Bob Meadows]

Chris:~
Regarding the body sills- if you remove the push on plastic trims (interior) just on top of the sills and pull the carpet back, you will find a number of large grommets along the front & rear, these will give you a view of the inner sills.
I would check the front for debris/leaves etc. Once rust is removed spray with your favorite wax- the rear wheel arch also has a rubber grommet that gives access to the point where you have rust- could be hidden by underseal?

The base plates for the springs:~ the threaded spigot can be knocked out (splined fitting) I replace the same with a heavy duty stainless bolt.
Regards Bob.

[Chris152]

Originally Posted by Bob Meadows

Chris:~
Regarding the body sills- if you remove the push on plastic trims (interior) just on top of the sills and pull the carpet back, you will find a number of large grommets along the front & rear, these will give you a view of the inner sills.
I would check the front for debris/leaves etc. Once rust is removed spray with your favorite wax- the rear wheel arch also has a rubber grommet that gives access to the point where you have rust- could be hidden by underseal?

The base plates for the springs:~ the threaded spigot can be knocked out (splined fitting) I replace the same with a heavy duty stainless bolt.
Regards Bob.

Thanks Bob - we'll put that on the list of things to explore/ do post-MoT.

Regarding the stainless bolt - is there any merit in buying a selection of bolts/ nuts just to keep in case and if so, what are the most common sizes/ specs? Or are there just too many different ones to think about doing that? As it is, I have to order online or visit a store each time a new nut's needed.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Chris152

Regarding the stainless bolt - is there any merit in buying a selection of bolts/ nuts just to keep in case and if so, what are the most common sizes/ specs? Or are there just too many different ones to think about doing that? As it is, I have to order online or visit a store each time a new nut's needed.

https://www.toolstation.com/screws-f...s-washers/c727

If you use that link to get you to the right area Chris, then click "Bolts and Setscrews" and later "Nuts and Washers", you should be able to find packs of nuts, bolts, Nylocs, penny washers, plain washers, spring washers, connector nuts (surprisingly useful!) and various lengths of sets screws (bolts threaded all the way) and normal bolts (threaded part-way) in various lengths.

The common sizes you'll want are M6, M8, M10 and M12. They also do domed nuts and a few other things, you may also find they do selection packs of various different sizes of things in one pack - ideal as a starter set then renew the stuff you use most of as you go.

Avoid stainless steel where possible for heavy duty stuff unless you specifically need it to be corrosion resistant, stainless bolts often have a lower shear point than their mild steel counterparts and aren't recommended for suspension applications - perfect for "dress-up" fasteners though and good for exhausts (the heat helps keep them annealed so less likely to shear/break) and other less critical parts.

Some time back i built up a collection buying one size at a time, you may find you also want M4 and M5 but less likely. Fairly quick and easy to build a collection that way and you'll find they're used on other things too, especially when you start making your own projects.

[Bob Meadows]

Hi Chris:~
For what I still call the "modern stuff" ie metric I would only keep a very small amount in stock as they are easily obtained, Volvo seemed to use a lot of flanged nuts- get descent quality particularly stainless & as mentioned if renewing suspension parts choose the right specifications.
"Copper grease is your friend once removed & cleaned"

Nut/Bolt factors or on line is my normal route.
Washers- various types & sizes are always handy.

I do keep a lot of B.S.F- B.A & some Whitworth sizes, they are now a little more specialized but again you get to know the descent suppliers - some are also H.T. depending on the location etc.

I'm sure you will get familiar with requirements for stock as the work progresses.
Regards Bob.

[Chris152]

Thanks fellas - we'll definitely get some in but not go overboard - if nothing else, it'll help decide what size bolts we're finding on the car by trying known nuts on them.

Quick one - the part turned up this morning (brilliant service, Brookhouse!), and we've fitted all including the roll bar, not yet tightened up from underneath. But - the spring doesn't seem to be sitting flush on the top (see pic). Will this change under weight/ with use? The bottom is fitted right, as far as I can see - same as the first one, though I did torque this one up to about 25 nm. Should I loosen it again before any weight is on it and then retighten? I didn't notice this happened on the other side (which I didn't torque) but it may be the same.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Chris152

Thanks fellas - we'll definitely get some in but not go overboard - if nothing else, it'll help decide what size bolts we're finding on the car by trying known nuts on them.

Quick one - the part turned up this morning (brilliant service, Brookhouse!), and we've fitted all including the roll bar, not yet tightened up from underneath. But - the spring doesn't seem to be sitting flush on the top (see pic). Will this change under weight/ with use? The bottom is fitted right, as far as I can see - same as the first one, though I did torque this one up to about 25 nm. Should I loosen it again before any weight is on it and then retighten? I didn't notice this happened on the other side (which I didn't torque) but it may be the same.

With your car being a 1990(?) Chris, most fasteners should be metric - might be the odd one that isn't but not many.

As for the spring, it looks ok from that camera angle, if it doesn't need to settle, as long as the base is tightened then it should find its way into the right place. I'd suggest afer a week or so of use, check tighten everything again to be on the safe side.

[Chris152]

Brilliant - thanks Dave. Going underneath to tighten things now. (I loosened that one nut off again, just so it can sit where it wants with weight on it).

[Chris152]

Just test drove it - fantastic!!! I always had the feeling the back was too low in relation to the front, now it looks and feels so much better.

Delighted! Thanks so much for your patience all, couldn't have done it without you (I guess that's obvious from all the questions). Feeling proud of ourselves :-)

ps I had to go back underneath to finish tightening the bolts, I'd remembered 63, and set the wrench to 63 nm nm - corrected to 85 nm before we drove v`

[Bob Meadows]

Good work Chris:~
You have lost a bump stop (maybe two?) at the highlighted point- you will need these for the MOT when due. If it has just fallen off and you have the part then clean the rust away and stick back on with Polyurethane adhesive- I think the part is available though or improvise/poach from another.
Regards Bob.