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Rear O/S brake issue

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Old Jan 25th, 2020, 17:48   #1
Dorse
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Default Rear O/S brake issue

Hi,

Loving my XC90 (2010 D5 auto 183) that I've had since November, no issues so far until now. I was recently hearing rumbles/grinding from the back of car whilst traveling at speed 60mph+ having a look the rear brakes were worn right down and scored the discs but only the o/s was scoring.

I changed the discs and pads on Thursday but the problem now seems that the rear pad o/s is constantly rubbing/engaged on the disc even when the brake is not in use there is no small clearance like the other side and it's giving off exterme heat unlike the N/S.

Have I missed something? I've rewound the piston in the caliper and pumped the brakes after fitting like I have in previous cars.

Any advice appreciated.

Thanks,

Darren.

Last edited by Dorse; Jan 25th, 2020 at 17:54.
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Old Jan 25th, 2020, 17:59   #2
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Originally Posted by Dorse View Post
Hi,

Loving my XC90 (2010 D5 auto 183) that I've had since November, no issues so far until now. I was recently hearing rumbles/grinding from the back of car whilst traveling at speed 60mph+ having a look the rear brakes were worn right down and scored the discs but only the o/s was scoring.

I changed the discs and pads on Thursday but the problem now seems that the rear pad o/s is constantly rubbing/engaged on the disc even when the brake is not in use there is no small clearance like the other side and it's giving off exterme heat unlike the N/S.

Have I missed something? I've rewound the piston in the caliper and pumped the brakes after fitting like I have in previous cars.

Any advice appreciated.

Thanks,

Darren.

Sticky caliper or more likely sticky slides and or gunged up crap in the bellows for the sliders ... TBH I swap them at every pad change ... they are not that expensive even from Volvo ..... worth checking.

Hope it helps
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Old Jan 25th, 2020, 18:05   #3
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Sticky caliper or more likely sticky slides and or gunged up crap in the bellows for the sliders ... TBH I swap them at every pad change ... they are not that expensive even from Volvo ..... worth checking.

Hope it helps
Thanks very much was looking in to this option, never changed a caliper before is it just a case of bleeding the brakes and replacing?

Thanks.
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Old Jan 25th, 2020, 18:12   #4
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Thanks very much was looking in to this option, never changed a caliper before is it just a case of bleeding the brakes and replacing?

Thanks.
I believe the calipers can be a PIA to bleed properly, but I only change the slider pins and clean out the bellows with brake cleaner and a test-tube brush ... you can check your caliper by gently getting someone to push the brake pedal whilst you have the pads removed, if the piston slides ok (in and out,) then your issue is likely to be the sliders ... which are a couple of pounds rather than several hundred for the caliper. .... if you are stripping down dont forget to order new caliper mount frame bolts from Volvo as the existing ones are single use ... unless your happy with loads of thread lock ... IMO ... pay the money and replace the bolts while you are there.

Hope it helps
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Old Jan 25th, 2020, 18:24   #5
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I believe the calipers can be a PIA to bleed properly, but I only change the slider pins and clean out the bellows with brake cleaner and a test-tube brush ... you can check your caliper by gently getting someone to push the brake pedal whilst you have the pads removed, if the piston slides ok (in and out,) then your issue is likely to be the sliders ... which are a couple of pounds rather than several hundred for the caliper. .... if you are stripping down dont forget to order new caliper mount frame bolts from Volvo as the existing ones are single use ... unless your happy with loads of thread lock ... IMO ... pay the money and replace the bolts while you are there.

Hope it helps
Thank you will do some tests of the caliper and hopefully it's just new slider pins required.
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Old Jan 26th, 2020, 18:27   #6
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Stripped it down today and gave the sliders and and bellows a good clean out with brake cleaner, after a trip to the shops and back no burning smell or friction when not in use so all seems good.

When testing the caliper piston without any pads in it just came out when pressed and doesn't retract back in when the brake was released is this right and it's the sliders that does the work? I just rewound the caliper.

The true test will be tomorrow after my trip to work as that involves some motorway driving.

If it plays up again i'll just give the dealership a call I got it from as I've still got warranty left if the caliper is the culprit and see what they say.

They were really helpful before I was handed the car they gave the passenger side a new coat of paint as there was a scratch across all the panels, they changed the MAF sensor for me gave it a fresh 12 month mot and cleared all advisories and threw 2 brand new tyres on the back.

On a unrelated note I was going to change the other N/S discs and pads today since I had the time but the locking bolt seems worn on that tyre, don't want to wreck the locking nut trying to force the issue any tips or is that another one for the dealership?

Thanks.
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Old Jan 27th, 2020, 12:09   #7
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Originally Posted by Dorse View Post
Stripped it down today and gave the sliders and and bellows a good clean out with brake cleaner, after a trip to the shops and back no burning smell or friction when not in use so all seems good.

When testing the caliper piston without any pads in it just came out when pressed and doesn't retract back in when the brake was released is this right and it's the sliders that does the work? I just rewound the caliper.

The true test will be tomorrow after my trip to work as that involves some motorway driving.

If it plays up again i'll just give the dealership a call I got it from as I've still got warranty left if the caliper is the culprit and see what they say.

They were really helpful before I was handed the car they gave the passenger side a new coat of paint as there was a scratch across all the panels, they changed the MAF sensor for me gave it a fresh 12 month mot and cleared all advisories and threw 2 brand new tyres on the back.

On a unrelated note I was going to change the other N/S discs and pads today since I had the time but the locking bolt seems worn on that tyre, don't want to wreck the locking nut trying to force the issue any tips or is that another one for the dealership?

Thanks.
Hi the caliper piston does not retract, but will maintain contact with the pad ... as the pedal pressure is released it does back of very slightly so it doesn't bind. You should not have required to "wind" the piston back in, it is just a push fit in the caliper housing, steady pressure is all that should have been required (with the brake fluid reservoir cap off or loosened.)

Personally I had my locking wheel nuts butchered by someone trying to get the alloys ... go figure, the new tyres I guess?) I tried several places who refused to touch it due to the anti-theft collar ... eventually my dealer did it by welding a nut on to the damaged locks .... they said it took most of the day as the welds kept breaking, but only charged £85 in total for the job.

Hope it helps.
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Old Jan 27th, 2020, 16:33   #8
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Hi the caliper piston does not retract, but will maintain contact with the pad ... as the pedal pressure is released it does back of very slightly so it doesn't bind. You should not have required to "wind" the piston back in, it is just a push fit in the caliper housing, steady pressure is all that should have been required (with the brake fluid reservoir cap off or loosened.)

Personally I had my locking wheel nuts butchered by someone trying to get the alloys ... go figure, the new tyres I guess?) I tried several places who refused to touch it due to the anti-theft collar ... eventually my dealer did it by welding a nut on to the damaged locks .... they said it took most of the day as the welds kept breaking, but only charged £85 in total for the job.

Hope it helps.
Struggled to get the bleed cap valve off, I'm assuming it's a 10mm num but my 10m spanner was having none of it so had to rewind in the end.

All seemed good this morning no burning smell after mostly motorway driving for 20 mins👍

I'll try a tyre place for the nut if no joy I'll go down dealer route.

Thanks for all the help and clearing things up for me.
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Old Jan 28th, 2020, 00:56   #9
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Keep us up-to-date with how you get on.
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Old Jan 28th, 2020, 17:33   #10
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Keep us up-to-date with how you get on.
Locking nut all sorted and replaced with normal bolts to save this hassle in future, cost £60 in a alloy wheel shop by mine, took about a hour and half, glad it's sorted now so I can get this other disc and brake pad put on.

Thanks again.
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