GUIDE : Changing your brake pads - Page 2

gloster_man · Oct 1st, 2007, 19:33

Very useful, thanks (as is your equally helpful post on gearstick linkage)!

I have a 240 and know how to do a fair bit of stuff on that, but will be getting a V40 soon so this is very timely advice ... and a fine example of what this forum is best used for.

Nickmac · Oct 1st, 2007, 20:29

Ditto about the bleed nipple if ABS fitted, also if you don't want to have horrible squealing brakes 100 miles down the road, buy a tin/tube of copper anti seize grease and liberally coat all metal to metal contact areas of pads/calipers/carriers when fitting the new ones, obviously making sure you wire brush these areas when everything stripped out.
Do it once and do it well and you will have happy, quiet, efficient brakes!

JSeaman · Oct 2nd, 2007, 09:07

Gophur and manoman - you're both more than welcome

Dandle, the fluid's in a very poor state and a fluid change is on the cards but I had a cylinder block to strip down which takes priority!

I've had the bleed nipple discussion before (different car, same argument) and if your fluid is dirty then it isn't going to help you anyway. Not going to start an argument, the logic is there but I've never seen anyone have the problem so it's up to you

Copper slip is a good tip though,just didn't have any to hand

Gophur · Oct 2nd, 2007, 09:56

Alright, well I did this last night and noticed a few things.

The top 12mm bolt on the caliper (on my car anyway) had a very short head, meaning that combined with the rust I couldn't get it off. The bottom one was fine, it had a proper head and came off with a little persuasion. I then found that I could swing the caliper upwards to remove and refit the pads without lostening the top bolt. Might be of use to anyone on the same position.

On trying to get the bolts off for the carrier, I decided that it was impossible, and that it must be held on with some kind of witchcraft. Any ideas on getting it off without stripping the head? Discs could do with doing soon.

I need to do the rear ones as well some point soon, I may well take a leaf from your book and post a guide up if I can get the missus to take some shots.

Oh and incidentally, don't get your woman to watch the brake fluid tank while you're retracting the pistons. Mine failed to spot a massive rise in the fluid level, almost resulting in brake goo all over everything.....

JSeaman · Oct 2nd, 2007, 10:09

Yes, pivotting on the top bolt is normal when doing the pads. The reason I showed both is so you can do the disc too

I'd be inclined to sort that top bolt if you can

I didn't find any witchcraft on mine

Jack the car up VERY high and you'll get a breaker bar on them, leverage is the best way

Women suck at cars, I could tell you some stories but I promised I wouldn't!

Listerman1 · Mar 11th, 2009, 14:18

absolutely brilliant, used this today to replace discs and pads on my V40,
just the rear to do now !

Thanks Guys

jonny57 · Mar 11th, 2009, 21:16

Really good photo guide-one point,while you're in there you should take the guide pins out and clean them and re-grease,they're prone to seizing up.

apollo · Apr 1st, 2009, 18:54

Fantastic guide (as always on this forum), had to rapidly change the rear pads on my S40 yesterday after the passenger side starting grinding!

Anyway if i could add 1 or 2 things just in case anyone has the same problems as me... My caliper could not be swivelled upwards or downwards by just undoing one bolt, this was due to the location of the brake hose (dont know if anyone elses is on the bottom?) but after removing both bolts i managed to secure it tightly enough to push the piston back in. This is my second point, my piston needed to to be rotated in so i forked out the best £18 of my life and bought a special tool to push it back in and it works a dream.

Lastly definatley clean and grease the guide pins, this was the cause of my grinding...my pads had worn unevenly due to sticking/seized pins.

Again many thanks to anyone who puts a guide on here.

-chris- · Mar 14th, 2011, 22:32

Mods, can this guide be added to the articles section please? seems a shame not to make the most of the resource..

I used the guide once before so i knew it existed but it's come round to needing doing again and i needed a refresher to give me some confidence!

Oct 2nd, 2007, 09:07	#13
JSeaman Senior Member Last Online: Oct 20th, 2013 20:24 Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Derbyshire	Gophur and manoman - you're both more than welcome Dandle, the fluid's in a very poor state and a fluid change is on the cards but I had a cylinder block to strip down which takes priority! I've had the bleed nipple discussion before (different car, same argument) and if your fluid is dirty then it isn't going to help you anyway. Not going to start an argument, the logic is there but I've never seen anyone have the problem so it's up to you Copper slip is a good tip though,just didn't have any to hand __________________ Click here for guides

Oct 2nd, 2007, 10:09	#15
JSeaman Senior Member Last Online: Oct 20th, 2013 20:24 Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Derbyshire	Yes, pivotting on the top bolt is normal when doing the pads. The reason I showed both is so you can do the disc too I'd be inclined to sort that top bolt if you can I didn't find any witchcraft on mine Jack the car up VERY high and you'll get a breaker bar on them, leverage is the best way Women suck at cars, I could tell you some stories but I promised I wouldn't! __________________ Click here for guides

Oct 1st, 2007, 19:33	#11
gloster_man VOC Member Last Online: Nov 17th, 2023 00:32 Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Gravesend, Kent	Very useful, thanks (as is your equally helpful post on gearstick linkage)! I have a 240 and know how to do a fair bit of stuff on that, but will be getting a V40 soon so this is very timely advice ... and a fine example of what this forum is best used for.

Oct 1st, 2007, 20:29	#12
Nickmac Member Last Online: Sep 27th, 2008 12:39 Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Gillingham, Dorset.	Ditto about the bleed nipple if ABS fitted, also if you don't want to have horrible squealing brakes 100 miles down the road, buy a tin/tube of copper anti seize grease and liberally coat all metal to metal contact areas of pads/calipers/carriers when fitting the new ones, obviously making sure you wire brush these areas when everything stripped out. Do it once and do it well and you will have happy, quiet, efficient brakes!

Oct 2nd, 2007, 09:56	#14
Gophur Junior Member Last Online: Aug 17th, 2008 11:01 Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Reading	Alright, well I did this last night and noticed a few things. The top 12mm bolt on the caliper (on my car anyway) had a very short head, meaning that combined with the rust I couldn't get it off. The bottom one was fine, it had a proper head and came off with a little persuasion. I then found that I could swing the caliper upwards to remove and refit the pads without lostening the top bolt. Might be of use to anyone on the same position. On trying to get the bolts off for the carrier, I decided that it was impossible, and that it must be held on with some kind of witchcraft. Any ideas on getting it off without stripping the head? Discs could do with doing soon. I need to do the rear ones as well some point soon, I may well take a leaf from your book and post a guide up if I can get the missus to take some shots. Oh and incidentally, don't get your woman to watch the brake fluid tank while you're retracting the pistons. Mine failed to spot a massive rise in the fluid level, almost resulting in brake goo all over everything.....

Mar 11th, 2009, 14:18	#16
Listerman1 New Member Last Online: Mar 26th, 2009 14:27 Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Winchester	absolutely brilliant, used this today to replace discs and pads on my V40, just the rear to do now ! Thanks Guys

Mar 11th, 2009, 21:16	#17
jonny57 Member Last Online: Dec 10th, 2011 13:25 Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Dundee	Really good photo guide-one point,while you're in there you should take the guide pins out and clean them and re-grease,they're prone to seizing up.

Apr 1st, 2009, 18:54	#18
apollo Member Last Online: Sep 8th, 2009 15:14 Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: fleet	Fantastic guide (as always on this forum), had to rapidly change the rear pads on my S40 yesterday after the passenger side starting grinding! Anyway if i could add 1 or 2 things just in case anyone has the same problems as me... My caliper could not be swivelled upwards or downwards by just undoing one bolt, this was due to the location of the brake hose (dont know if anyone elses is on the bottom?) but after removing both bolts i managed to secure it tightly enough to push the piston back in. This is my second point, my piston needed to to be rotated in so i forked out the best £18 of my life and bought a special tool to push it back in and it works a dream. Lastly definatley clean and grease the guide pins, this was the cause of my grinding...my pads had worn unevenly due to sticking/seized pins. Again many thanks to anyone who puts a guide on here.

Mar 14th, 2011, 22:32	#19
-chris- Senior Member Last Online: Mar 26th, 2024 19:58 Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: devon	Mods, can this guide be added to the articles section please? seems a shame not to make the most of the resource.. I used the guide once before so i knew it existed but it's come round to needing doing again and i needed a refresher to give me some confidence!

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