Engine: D5244: - D5 Water Pump - change or not??

1tinkerer · Jan 1st, 2015, 21:27

Here's the picture..
2002 S60 D5 with 74k, service history for the most part but no sign of change of Timing belt or Water Pump.

I have just bought the car knowing that it is probably due a belt service, but I am wondering if the Water Pump needs changing too. The belt is knackered and I say this as the back of the belt is cracking and there is a ticking inside the cabin when idling that just happens to be the same frequency as the rotating of the belt... So, the car wont be moving until the belt is changed..

It is on the original belt (I a assuming) as it is a Volvo belt and looks never to be changed.. Question is, should I change the Water Pump?? No strange noises there, but I seen elsewhere that they seem to be good for 300k..

Any advice would be appreciated..

BTW, whilst on the subject, do you really need an inpact gun to remove the centre crank nut?

Cheers..

Clan · Jan 1st, 2015, 21:36

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1tinkerer

Here's the picture..
2002 S60 D5 with 74k, service history for the most part but no sign of change of Timing belt or Water Pump.

I have just bought the car knowing that it is probably due a belt service, but I am wondering if the Water Pump needs changing too. The belt is knackered and I say this as the back of the belt is cracking and there is a ticking inside the cabin when idling that just happens to be the same frequency as the rotating of the belt... So, the car wont be moving until the belt is changed..

It is on the original belt (I a assuming) as it is a Volvo belt and looks never to be changed.. Question is, should I change the Water Pump?? No strange noises there, but I seen elsewhere that they seem to be good for 300k..

Any advice would be appreciated..

BTW, whilst on the subject, do you really need an inpact gun to remove the centre crank nut?

Cheers..

No you will not need a water pump , better the devil you know ! It has proved itself and has another 96000 to go before you check it for leaks and the smoothness of the bearing ... I have never known one case a problem since this pump was introduced in 1990 in the 960 . Do you think volvo would fit inferior parts when the life of their engine depends on it? You have a water pump of the very best quality available .

You need a crank pulley holding tool , the crank pulley nut must be changed and done up to 300 nm . The 4 stretch bolts in the pulley must be changed and torqued and angle torqued to the correct figures ..

1tinkerer · Jan 1st, 2015, 22:08

Hi Clan,
Thanks for the information and thanks for confirming about the water pump.. Question is, where could I get a Holding Tool and is it something my local Sealey or Sykes guy would have?

Thanks..

Clan · Jan 1st, 2015, 22:21

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1tinkerer

Hi Clan,
Thanks for the information and thanks for confirming about the water pump.. Question is, where could I get a Holding Tool and is it something my local Sealey or Sykes guy would have?

Thanks..

yes possibly they could supply one however i have seen a non volvo one bend like a bannana under 300nm of torque ! The volvo one is 1/2 " thick steel ... and about £25 , the dealer could order you one .

1tinkerer · Jan 1st, 2015, 22:54

Is it the case then that the pulley hub has to be held whilst the nut is tightened? I made a tool a few years ago where I got two pieces of flatbar and fixed them together at one end and drilled a couple of holes at the other end to accept 8mm fasteners. It has served me well and I have used this on any belt services I have done for holding the crank. If the holes were opened out to 10mm and the pulley bolts were re-installed into the hub and tightened up, would this not hold? I know we are talking about 300Nm, but am I barking up the wrong tree?

Hasse53 · Jan 2nd, 2015, 10:54

The crankshaft nut is tightened to 300 Nm. But the torque needed to undo the nut after 12 years is probably about 400-500 Nm due to corrosion. This will put strain on the tools used.

I have used a impact wrench to undo the nut, this is easy. But maybe there are risks involved with this, something can get damaged? I do not know, maybe "Clan" knows?

To tighten the nut I have used the method decribed in the Haynes Handbook i.e. to block the wheels(6th gear selected) and using a torque wrench. This is of course not applicable on cars with auto gearboxes.

Any feedback would be preciated!

D5meister · Jan 2nd, 2015, 11:52

I reused the centre nut (30mm across flats) as Volvo did last time. Replace it the corners are rounded or badly corroded.

I tried to undo one time with a 4 foot bar but didnt get enough swing at it and took in it to volvo. Almost all garages will rip this off in 2 secs with a decent rattle gun.

Some hold tool is required to tighten up. It is fairly tight, I had to hold the car and push the torque wrench to a click with my foot/leg.

pulling the starter and using teeth on the flywheel is popular but you need a solid way to do this, i.e. dont put a screwdriver on one tooth of the FW... I recall the volvo mech saying he did this in conjunction with the pulley hold tool!

There may be an approved FW lock for this but I dont know of one.

I used a good quality 600nm electric gun and it flew off in 2 secs. ( no hold reqd) It did however move off the timing marks by a few mm and I had to move it back.

To do up the nut, I used a volvo hold tool slotted in down into the Y end of the wishbone - rather than laterally load up the driveshaft with it. Then torque wrench at 300Nm

So i used a electric rattle, volvo hold tool, decent torque wrench.

I would think the volvo hold tool would take the force from a manual undo.

It does look solid and its heavy ~£35

I used the existing 4 bolts with the hold tool.

The 4 pulley bolts are just 10.9 high tensile bolts with head flange, to mimic a washer.

I reused these with some med loctite and got them as tight as I could using a normal socket ratchet handle.

D5meister · Jan 2nd, 2015, 12:08

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1tinkerer

Is it the case then that the pulley hub has to be held whilst the nut is tightened? I made a tool a few years ago where I got two pieces of flatbar and fixed them together at one end and drilled a couple of holes at the other end to accept 8mm fasteners. It has served me well and I have used this on any belt services I have done for holding the crank. If the holes were opened out to 10mm and the pulley bolts were re-installed into the hub and tightened up, would this not hold? I know we are talking about 300Nm, but am I barking up the wrong tree?

Im fairly sure this will work.

The question is how thick is the arm on your tool. This is what may distort.

I would use all 4 bolt holes. Plus a clearance hole to clear the roll pin/tube spring in the pulley - otherwise the tool wont sit flat on the pulley. This leaves some of the bolts unable to be done up fully and they may bend during full load.

D5meister · Jan 2nd, 2015, 12:40

some images of my recent swap out of all belt components

the dreaded pulley
pulley off

timing mark thru arch - looks aligned!
mark OFF - looks forward of oil pump reference..
mark OFF the other way looks left of oil pump reference...?

ALL 3 shots are done without moving the pulley... Its parallax error! So DONT do your timing thru the wheel arch!!

Original tensioner indicator - a little off due to cold and belt wear.

View from beneath prior to old belt removal
view from above, same condition

View of Crank timing looking from the front of car - the way to get the Timing Correct - look down the oil pump timing blade.
The adjacent pulley tooth continues the line to the other mark on the pulley boss, - which is a small raised rib

Cam timing, there is a thin short detent in the pulley, I filled with white hammer smooth ( spray some on a small screwdriver blade and knife it into the detent - it capilliaries in.
The detent in the belt cover is a little bigger and that is filled in paint too.

I also painted the tips of the 2 pulley teeth which straddle this painted mark
I also painted a line on the Torx head behind the pulley, just visible below the cam pulley mark..

Last image is the new tensioner indicator post settle in after a couple of crank rotations with a wrench. ( note the style of the indicator has altered now.)

D5meister · Jan 2nd, 2015, 13:05

Crank marks with a line drawn across..

Jan 1st, 2015, 21:27	#1
1tinkerer New Member Last Online: Dec 22nd, 2023 20:24 Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Loughgall	D5 Water Pump - change or not?? Here's the picture.. 2002 S60 D5 with 74k, service history for the most part but no sign of change of Timing belt or Water Pump. I have just bought the car knowing that it is probably due a belt service, but I am wondering if the Water Pump needs changing too. The belt is knackered and I say this as the back of the belt is cracking and there is a ticking inside the cabin when idling that just happens to be the same frequency as the rotating of the belt... So, the car wont be moving until the belt is changed.. It is on the original belt (I a assuming) as it is a Volvo belt and looks never to be changed.. Question is, should I change the Water Pump?? No strange noises there, but I seen elsewhere that they seem to be good for 300k.. Any advice would be appreciated.. BTW, whilst on the subject, do you really need an inpact gun to remove the centre crank nut? Cheers..

Jan 2nd, 2015, 11:52	#7
D5meister Premier Member Last Online: Feb 10th, 2024 19:13 Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Huntingdon	I reused the centre nut (30mm across flats) as Volvo did last time. Replace it the corners are rounded or badly corroded. I tried to undo one time with a 4 foot bar but didnt get enough swing at it and took in it to volvo. Almost all garages will rip this off in 2 secs with a decent rattle gun. Some hold tool is required to tighten up. It is fairly tight, I had to hold the car and push the torque wrench to a click with my foot/leg. pulling the starter and using teeth on the flywheel is popular but you need a solid way to do this, i.e. dont put a screwdriver on one tooth of the FW... I recall the volvo mech saying he did this in conjunction with the pulley hold tool! There may be an approved FW lock for this but I dont know of one. I used a good quality 600nm electric gun and it flew off in 2 secs. ( no hold reqd) It did however move off the timing marks by a few mm and I had to move it back. To do up the nut, I used a volvo hold tool slotted in down into the Y end of the wishbone - rather than laterally load up the driveshaft with it. Then torque wrench at 300Nm So i used a electric rattle, volvo hold tool, decent torque wrench. I would think the volvo hold tool would take the force from a manual undo. It does look solid and its heavy ~£35 I used the existing 4 bolts with the hold tool. The 4 pulley bolts are just 10.9 high tensile bolts with head flange, to mimic a washer. I reused these with some med loctite and got them as tight as I could using a normal socket ratchet handle. Last edited by D5meister; Jan 2nd, 2015 at 12:13.

Jan 1st, 2015, 22:08	#3
1tinkerer New Member Last Online: Dec 22nd, 2023 20:24 Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Loughgall	Hi Clan, Thanks for the information and thanks for confirming about the water pump.. Question is, where could I get a Holding Tool and is it something my local Sealey or Sykes guy would have? Thanks..

Jan 1st, 2015, 22:54	#5
1tinkerer New Member Last Online: Dec 22nd, 2023 20:24 Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Loughgall	Is it the case then that the pulley hub has to be held whilst the nut is tightened? I made a tool a few years ago where I got two pieces of flatbar and fixed them together at one end and drilled a couple of holes at the other end to accept 8mm fasteners. It has served me well and I have used this on any belt services I have done for holding the crank. If the holes were opened out to 10mm and the pulley bolts were re-installed into the hub and tightened up, would this not hold? I know we are talking about 300Nm, but am I barking up the wrong tree?

Jan 2nd, 2015, 10:54	#6
Hasse53 Member Last Online: Jun 27th, 2022 21:50 Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Karlstad	The crankshaft nut is tightened to 300 Nm. But the torque needed to undo the nut after 12 years is probably about 400-500 Nm due to corrosion. This will put strain on the tools used. I have used a impact wrench to undo the nut, this is easy. But maybe there are risks involved with this, something can get damaged? I do not know, maybe "Clan" knows? To tighten the nut I have used the method decribed in the Haynes Handbook i.e. to block the wheels(6th gear selected) and using a torque wrench. This is of course not applicable on cars with auto gearboxes. Any feedback would be preciated!

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