Slave cylinder pushrod mod

[PTJS]

And now for the next job.....

My former 1979 240DL had adjustment to the slave cylinder pushrod and it was always considered desirable to keep a small amount of free play in it.

In their wisdom Volvo did away with this adjustment on later models and on my 1988 240GL there is simply a plastic cap on the end of the pushrod. The cap appears to project through the actuating arm and is secured by a circlip. There is no adjustment available and there is no freeplay in the existing set up.

Over the past couple of years the gearchange has become 'snicky', particularly in the lower gears and when the engine is cold and moreso in cold weather. I am wondering whether this is due to a lack of freeplay. A new Volvo clutch was fitted about 10k ago and the gearbox oil replaced with Volvo's super duper stuff. Slave and master cylinders were also replaced around the same time but have not restored the gearchange.

I have read that it is possible to replace the existing pushrod with a length of threaded bar with an adjusting nut and lock nut fitted where it passes through the actuating arm. Has anyone any experience of doing this mod and would something have to be done where the bar passes through the slave cylinder rubber boot to stop it from being chaffed? Or is there another possible reason why the gearchange has deteriorated?

Phil

[Suterman]

I had to do this on mine, I got a new slave cyl but it was different to the one I replaced, the actuator arm I had wasn't long enough, I used an M10 x 75MM bolt (IIRC) and ground off the head to a blunt point to fit snugly in the slave, I used two nuts locked together and shoved it in behind the arm when fitting the slave, no clip or cap required. That was in December, I replaced the clutch a couple of weeks ago 3000 miles and its still fine.

[Clifford Pope]

On an hydraulic system there is no point in adjusting the length of the rod. By its nature an hydraulic system will take up whatever slack there is. The only purpose of having a different length rod is to shift the neutral position of the slave piston in its bore, which you would need to do in order to use the other of the two lengths of cylinder available.
As long as the operating range of travel keeps the piston comfortably within the bore length, without bottoming or reaching the restraining circlip, then the length is imaterial.

[Peter D]

I second that. Peter D

[honestjoe]

Hi phil!...sods law my old bus was difficult to get into firsr gear yesterday and at one point was not actualy in gear when i pulled away..not wanting to hold up the traffic i put it in gear with tradtional crunch..just suddenly came on..I did a search of the forum for difficult gear change and got some interesting results!..such as the wall of the slave rubber flexi pipe breaking down and ballooning..etc etc..Interestingly with the engine off i can put the car into first and second gear without clutching..i"m almost sure i had to clutch it in the past..These issues seem to be quite common with all manner of fixes..oh well something else to add to the ever increasing list of things to do!...hj.

[Peter D]

This is caused by clutch drag thus it's ok with the engine off. Either you have air, or as mentioned a failed flexi, in the system, a failed/collapsed release bearing, usually makes a noise though, of a delaminated clutch. Regards Peter

[honestjoe]

Thanks peter...drove it this morning and fine from cold only a short journey..tonight is a longer journey...I think the clutch had to work harder yesterday around town..my old bus hates the stop start senario..hj.

[PTJS]

Yes, my clutch has always juddered a bit when moving away from cold, again I wonder whether it is something to do with a lack of adjustment or an actuating arm problem although when the clutch was changed a couple of years ago I was told the actuating arm was fine and that there was a tiny seep from the crank oil seal but nothing to worry about. On the next oilchange I switched to Castrol high mileage which says it conditions seals in old engines. Seems to be true as a leak from the sump gasket which I've had for years has all but stopped so hopefully it will have done the same for the crank seal.

Good luck

Phil

[honestjoe]

Hi phil..I"ve heard of this oil..glad its working for you..but i"m suprised they did not change the crank seal for you anyway as its not the kind of job that you want to have to revisit before next clutch change...oh well at least its doing its job! result!...My old bus only judders in reverse up steep drives/inclines..but i rectify this by changing driving style if you know what i mean...I think i will replace my slave first and change fluid as there is a slight weep..it does not drip but always looks oily around boot..the only problem is that it looks well embeded in to the flimsy collar..I dont think its the clutch as it bites about three quarters after lifting foot with resistance to spare..I"ve read quite a few threads where clutches have been replaced..slaves etc..and still have stiff or hit and miss engagement...i really dont relish the idea of dropping the lot to check...I will do the slave and take it from there..by the way i put magnetec in my engine its expensive but in my experience its a very good oil ,If it was burning it i might go for a less expensive lube....cheers hj.

[PTJS]

FAO Suterman

I like your bolt solution, presumably the smooth end of the bolt is long enough not to allow the threads to chaffe the rubber boot. Did you have the same gearchange problems as me and did this arrangement overcome them?

Cheers

Phil