How to replace rear wheel bearing - S40 DIY

[dmiller]

Hey,

I'm pretty sure that the caliper bolts are single use and the ones for the sliding pin are meant to be replaced with the pads.

I wouldn't consider reusing the caliper mounting bolts but I would reuse the sliding pin bolts if they looked ok. When I did mine I ended up chewing up the heads on the caliper mounting bolts getting the things out in the first place anyway as they had rusted in....

Cheers,

David.

[Scaryjim]

Did this job a couple of weeks ago on my 2002 T4 due to a horrendous drone which probably warranted the use of ear plugs if the health and safety executive had been involved.

Didn't realise this guide was available at the time so went for it by logic. This is a great guide if you ensure you include the angular tightening of the hub nut on top of the torque tightening.

For some reason (probably inexperience) I couldn't get the caliper off the disc without disconnecting the handbrake cable. And I couldn't get that free from the handbrake operating lever on the caliper without removing the operating lever itself and the lever stop. Still, it came off in the end and the extra disassembly gave me a chance to clean and grease a couple of extra bits.

Once the hub nut was off the hub pretty much fell off, no need for a hub puller with this 170k bearing. Just 2 little fingers was enough to slide it off the axle.

I was a little bit daring or stupid (time will tell) and I reused the caliper carrier bolts with some thread lock and the hub nut with some thread lock and a couple of peens. All is good so far and so quiet but if I stop posting then you know my hub nut fell off and I've died in a massive fireball in a three wheeled 200hp T4!

Only issue now is that my quiet wheel bearing is allowing many other squeaks and rattles to be heard. Still, it's better than going slowly deaf due to a horrendous drone.

[flipper234]

Originally Posted by kieran40

Good guide but I noticed you didn't use a torque angle which you need to do,the bearing sits exactly right then m8.i think it's another 30 degrees from the recommended torque .you might wear youre bearing out prematurely by not doing so.

Kieran, when you say tighten to torque setting, then another 30 degrees is that done by marking 2 marks 30 degrees apart on the job then tightening to level the marks.
You will have to forgive me I have not got a great mechanical know Cheers

[Scaryjim]

This reply is probably a bit late for your job but, yes. Ensure you initially torque the nut up to 120Nm then using a protractor mark 30 degrees on from the current torqued nut position. Further tighten the nut to this marked position and continue the rebuild.