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700/900 Series General Forum for the Volvo 740, 760, 780, 940, 960 & S/V90 cars |
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740 Washer MotorsViews : 437 Replies : 9Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Jan 28th, 2019, 22:46 | #1 |
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740 Washer Motors
I have posted previously about a rear wiper, on testing I noticed there is not much force from the rear washer pump, have checked and its possible there is an inline NRV for the rear wiper wash, having checked on Ebay there is a genuine Volvo part, but there are also others and the rear motor is more expensive than the front, just wondered if they are different, perhaps as the rear motor has more work to do, but they look physically identical, will try and sort the rear wiper once the frost has gone, save on screen wash, Thanks
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Jan 28th, 2019, 23:06 | #2 |
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You really don't need that non-return valve. It's about 1-2 seconds extra to prime the line without.
To see if there is a difference, could test each pump to see how much they can flow per minute.
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Jan 28th, 2019, 23:40 | #3 |
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Jan 29th, 2019, 12:04 | #4 |
bob12
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You might find that the actual washer jet is partially blocked inside the visible part of the jet assembly (there is no NRV).
You can remove the jet assembly and it comes further to pieces. That allows you to thoroughly clean out the internal pipework of the jet assembly. It can get blocked as there is a right angle bend inside the assembly before the jet. Bob. |
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Jan 29th, 2019, 14:26 | #5 | |
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Quote:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-x-AQUAR...E/222659538025 That's what i used.
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Feb 9th, 2019, 18:32 | #6 |
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Washer Motor
Hi
I got some of the NRVs Dave suggested, and work well, I cleared the rear washer pipe out with a compressor with the pipe disconnected from the nozzle just on low, and a lot of sludge came out, found that a good way to do it. How does the rear washer jet come of though, as that obviously needs cleaning as well. Thanks Andrew |
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Feb 9th, 2019, 19:14 | #7 |
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Can't remember how to get the rear washer jet out but buy a pint of white vinegar (cost you about 50p) from your local supermarket and add about half to the washer bottle then top up with water.
As you use it, not only will it dissolve limescale etc but clean the system through and is good for cleaning glass as well. You can always give it another shot if it's not cleaned the whole system after you've worked your way through the washer reservoir in normal use. I usually do this once or twice a year in mine, keeps the limescale and other goo down to a minimum and nice clean jets and glass too. If you can get the jet out, get a mug, fill it half full with white vinegar, drop the jet assembly in and then top up with boling water - leave to soak, preferably overnight. Remove, rinse, blow through backwards, rinse again and should be ready to refit. Top tip for improving the front washers is that S/V40 fan/mist jets are a straight swap and give much better cleaning.
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Feb 9th, 2019, 20:02 | #8 |
bob12
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Have some pics and text on my PC which did for VOC Driver some years ago, but not on laptop. Will put up tomorrow. Bob.
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Feb 9th, 2019, 20:20 | #9 |
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Washer Motor
Thanks for replies, look forward to the pics, I did replace the front jets with genuine Volvo V40 ones from Ebay, I think they were about £15 each but worth it as they are definitely a lot better, had previously tried second hand 850 jets but no where near as good.
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Feb 10th, 2019, 11:44 | #10 |
bob12
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Sorry can't currently find pics. Here's the text:
"Tired of continuously having a blocked tailgate jet no matter how many times you have tried to clean it even with compressed air? Just remove the outer plastic cover (cap) so that you can clean the right angled bend before/at the jet properly. The jet appears to be a one part moulding, but it is not. The short length of plastic water tubing and the base plate are held very firmly into a small hole in the void of the metalwork of the tailgate by a very strong double clip top and bottom forming part of the unseen back of the backplate. The outer visible cap that actually contains the jet is held in place by a solid plastic lug on each side on the inside face of the backplate. This cover/cap is merely a press click fit on to the face of the backplate, although as the picture shows, there is a small solid plastic extension to the waterway inside the cap. To remove the cap you might need a very fine right angled implement to help separate the two halves on one side initially (protect paintwork!), but basically just squeeze the top and bottom of the cap firmly with your fingers to splay the cap out a little at the sides to release it from the lugs, at the same time as twisting the cap away from the tailgate down and off the solid plastic extension of the waterway. If you want you can also blow the pipework through from a convenient point to remove any further debris that might have built up over the years." Bob. |
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