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2002 V40 1.9TD - refusing to start

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Old Apr 26th, 2016, 19:28   #21
bobthecabbage
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Broke down and then won't start is a bit different to plain 'won't start'.

So many possibilities that without ruling something out you'll never get to the bottom of it.

Other than a code read starting with the basics such as ensuring air free fuel is being drawn up from the tank. You could bypass the fuel filter and allow the engine to suck up some clean diesel from a clean container along the lines of this epic video (use an in-line filter to protect your system).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xYsXHC2-PSw

Or just fit a section of clear fuel pipe so you can see if air free fuel is being drawn up. A few small bubbles shouldn't be an issue.
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Old Apr 26th, 2016, 21:43   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobthecabbage View Post
Broke down and then won't start is a bit different to plain 'won't start'.

So many possibilities that without ruling something out you'll never get to the bottom of it.

Other than a code read starting with the basics such as ensuring air free fuel is being drawn up from the tank. You could bypass the fuel filter and allow the engine to suck up some clean diesel from a clean container along the lines of this epic video (use an in-line filter to protect your system).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xYsXHC2-PSw

Or just fit a section of clear fuel pipe so you can see if air free fuel is being drawn up. A few small bubbles shouldn't be an issue.
I agree, but if you have to use the priming bulb to get it to start, then it's worth chasing the source. Odds on, one of the 2 fuel filter O rings is split or even missing.
Not sure if the OP has even changed the filter yet!

If you block the air filter, the engine would start and then fail giving a fault code. Might be the same as a MAF sensor code.

PS: Just watched the linky, OMG it's got a 5 liter can of Liqui Moly Diesel Purge (Direct feed or in tank injection system cleaner). Which fleet of buses are you cleaning up ??
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Old Apr 26th, 2016, 23:05   #23
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Who knew it came in 5 litre cans?
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Old Apr 27th, 2016, 07:28   #24
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Originally Posted by bobthecabbage View Post
Who knew it came in 5 litre cans?
I'm innocent, in fact I still have half a 500ml can left!

One can (Half liter), one car, one sludger per lifetime. That's why it must have been stolen or ordered my mistake from Fleabay.
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Old Apr 27th, 2016, 09:28   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skyship007 View Post
I'm innocent, in fact I still have half a 500ml can left!

One can (Half liter), one car, one sludger per lifetime. That's why it must have been stolen or ordered my mistake from Fleabay.
Makes sense though - at £37 for 5 litres it's practically a third the cost of buying it in 500ml cans - in fact, even if you only have 4 cars to treat it would probably work out cheaper to buy the 5L can.
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Old Apr 27th, 2016, 14:34   #26
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Mine Gott! So bulk buying LM Diesel Purge in 5 liter jugs is one good deal. I feel like I have been kicked in the Bawls by the Fleabay sellers program in Jerryland!

Hope it does not say, "Made in China", or, "Use by 5/2016", on the bottom. It's NBG if you try and use it as engine oil for your next race to the pub and back.

PS: Anyone seen any "Real steals" on Fleabay or some Volvo stealer for Gen Volvo or Mann (Made in Germany only) oil filters. I think Rufe the FRF Swansea Volvo dealer (Phone job with forum discount) had them on special, but forget the details.
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Old Apr 28th, 2016, 01:48   #27
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Have a look through this thread for a cheap(ish) reader that will work with the diesel...
http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=228338
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Old May 3rd, 2016, 15:08   #28
TorbjornJ
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Hopeless mechanic here again.

The car has been at a shop and I have gotten the codes back.
After removing all the old codes (got these printed out too), these stuck:

1826 - preheat plugs circuit (the description is in Norwegian, so it's roughly translated)

1808 - camshaft position sensor

1806 - Airflow sensor (MAF?)

--

1806 shouldn't make the car not start imo, so i'll ignore that for now.
The shop recommended me to start with the camshaft position sensor, so I have bought that.

I remove the old one and took a quick ohm reading of the 3 plugs, the only pins I could get a reading from was between pin 2 and 3, and it was 10.14k ohm. Same reading on both new and old sensor.

I removed the old one, it looks a little bit different on the housing/sensor part (old is metal an smaller on the end, new one is plastic).

I couldn't find any pictures when I did a google search, so just to confirm that I have the right part:



It's located there, right?



Old sensor on the right, new one the left:



When I changed the sensor, I don't feel it fits in the hole. Tryed the old one also but same there, cant really get it to fit perfectly. But I screwed the new one in an tried to start the car, but no luck. Just tries to start, over and over.

Any suggestions?
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Old May 3rd, 2016, 19:20   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TorbjornJ View Post
Hopeless mechanic here again.

The car has been at a shop and I have gotten the codes back.
After removing all the old codes (got these printed out too), these stuck:

1826 - preheat plugs circuit (the description is in Norwegian, so it's roughly translated)

1808 - camshaft position sensor

1806 - Airflow sensor (MAF?)

--

1806 shouldn't make the car not start imo, so i'll ignore that for now.
The shop recommended me to start with the camshaft position sensor, so I have bought that.

I remove the old one and took a quick ohm reading of the 3 plugs, the only pins I could get a reading from was between pin 2 and 3, and it was 10.14k ohm. Same reading on both new and old sensor.

I removed the old one, it looks a little bit different on the housing/sensor part (old is metal an smaller on the end, new one is plastic).

I couldn't find any pictures when I did a google search, so just to confirm that I have the right part:



It's located there, right?



Old sensor on the right, new one the left:



When I changed the sensor, I don't feel it fits in the hole. Tryed the old one also but same there, cant really get it to fit perfectly. But I screwed the new one in an tried to start the car, but no luck. Just tries to start, over and over.

Any suggestions?
Normally there would be a description of the fault with the codes explaining where the actual fault may lie. For example 'open circuit' or 'signal voltage too low'. They haven't really given you the detail to progress with the diagnosis!

As well as the camshaft position sensor there is also a crank pulse sensor. This may be what the code was referring to as they often have similar codes and unless the garage accurately identified your vehicle the code could refer to either sensor.

See this page

http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Vo...5c0f7a2&000440

or this one

http://www.gsfcarparts.com/929re0261

Eurocarparts even lists the resistance of the part as 840 Ohm. But you should be aware that these parts can test okay when cold but fail when they get warm.

This the part I would change as this is probably your RPM signal to the ECU.

The ECU will not send fuel to the engine if it does not think it is rotating.

I think the camshaft only rotates once per two crankshaft revolutions so isn't any good for generating an RPM signal.

I've changed one of these on another vehicle but couldn't tell you where it is on this engine. (That vehicle also wouldn't start).

A good indicator is if you crank the engine you should get a reading on the dash for the RPM as the starter turns the engine. If you don't or the needle jumps erratically, you know this is your problem.

For non starting with this code this is the first component I would check or change!
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Old May 3rd, 2016, 21:42   #30
TorbjornJ
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Quote:
Normally there would be a description of the fault with the codes explaining where the actual fault may lie. For example 'open circuit' or 'signal voltage too low'. They haven't really given you the detail to progress with the diagnosis!
That might be somewhat my fault also, that I did not include everything in my translation. The paper that I got from the shop looks like this:



I can't see that he has entered the VIN number, but it's the correct engine code.

I don't know if I have mentioned it, but if I push the car it starts and runs like normal. Everything works great, but as soon as I stopp it it will not start again. So everything mechanical works as I can see.

And since the car runs when pushed, I can totally ignore any diesel pump/filter issue right? It must be a sensor that makes the ECU don't want to start the car..

Quote:
As well as the camshaft position sensor there is also a crank pulse sensor. This may be what the code was referring to as they often have similar codes and unless the garage accurately identified your vehicle the code could refer to either sensor.
I googled the part and recognized it, so I screwed it out of the car and tried to ohm it - no result (no connection between the two pins). It should read 840 ohms, as http://www.gsfcarparts.com/929re0261 says? If anyone could confirm this, I will order the part asap
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