Irratic gear changes

[Gazdkw]

I've had my 2006 auto D5 v70 for about 5 months now.

I've noticed increasingly that the gear changes are sometimes irratic and very harsh.

This is more prominent if I have been driving in high revs or for over an hour.

It's worst moving from 1st to 2nd and sometimes 2nd to 3rd.

The best way I can describe it is when I pull away from a standstill it almost prematurely kicks the car into (what would be neutral in a manual) the revs go high and then it kicks the next gear in very harshly.

If I take my foot of the throttle at the point of hearing the revs kick up like this I can then stop the next gear kicking in so abruptly and gently apply throttle again and all is well with the changes.

The gearbox was serviced last June.

Any ideas what could be causing this?

[reggit]

How many miles on the car?

The symptoms you are describing point to worn out oil in the box. There are hundreds of threads on this.

I know you said you had the box serviced, but what did this entail?

[Gazdkw]

It's got 142k on the clock.

The information on the previous work is stated as "gearbox service" no more information.

I could potential call the company who did it for some more information.

How much does it generally cost for a gearbox oil change? Or is it a simple enough job for someone with moderate mechanics skills?

[ThomasG]

It is simple job.
Simplier even than changing engine oil as theres no filter to chabge in case of gearbox.

With 140+k miles, and possibly not a single oil change in that time, id be doing dumps and fills as opposed to power flush.

There will be dirt sitting on inside walls of gearbox, valve housing etc.
Powerflush will dislodge it and dirt will go everywhere.
Do dump and fill and all that happens is oil level gently drops and comes back up as you fill it.

Do a proper search as to where to get oil.
I've been buying mine on USA amazon, some £40 for 12quarts+ £50 shipping.
Still cheaper that Volvo dealer quote of £350 or Toyota T-IV for £55 per 5ltsr.
But I heard there are better deals, so look around.
You'll need min 12 litres, but if gear changes are bad, buy as much as you can.
You'll be doing dumps several times, preferably every 50-150miles for first 2, and then every 400-600 for another 2, and so on. Each change will be bringing improvement.
Now I change roughly twice a year, that is every 5-6k, but interval still grows.

Rise front if car. For this and few other jobs I'm using ramps. Don't be tempted to lift it up on jack and leave it on jack- you'll be crawling under, and if it drops..

Use ramps.

Locate big flat bolt facing sideways at the bottom of gearbox. That's the sump plug. Get at least 5ltrs container and CATCH EVERY DROP OF OIL from there.
Again- myself I use 2 silverline 5ltr measuring jugs just for the job. Why 2? Keep reading.

Replace copper washer (buy in advance, available at eurocarparts) and refit sump plug.

Now you need to measure EXACTLY the same amount of fresh oil. Yes, that's why I have 2 jugs. I set them next to each other and pour until levels are same.

Now, locate gearbox dipstick. Yellow.
Pull it out. That's the way to fill the gearbox.
Yes, we all know about that big flat bolt atop of gearbox, believe me, even if it looks like filling plug- it isnt.
You really really really don't want to undo that bolt..

Use dipstick.
You'll need a small funnel and about 60-80cm of flexible hose, just big enough that you can push it down the dipstick tube.

Slowly and patiently pour oil in. Its gonna take some time. You may speed it up a bit if oil is warm (bowl of hot water with oil canister standing in it, or keep it in sun for an hour before job in summer)

After you've poured all in, push dipstick back in, tidy up, job done.

Be sure that you poured exactly same amount of oil as you took out.

First time is always the most difficult as you're learning.
After few changes I came down to about 10minutes (including getting the tools from shed) plus whatever time I spend pouring that stuff in, and that varies on temperature. Anything from 15minutes to half hour of standing there topping up funnel every few seconds..

Good luck

[ThomasG]

Each sump dump will bring out about 3.5 ltrs of oil.
You're buying minimum 12litres in order to have enough for 3 changes.
But as I said- get as much as you can.

Did someone mention £80-90 for 20ltr drum somewhere? Mannol?

[ThomasG]

Oh, and observe colour of oil that you're taking out.
Good oil is blood red and transparent- you can check when you buy some.
On my first change it was earth black. Now I'm getting to light browns, with proper hint of red in it, and gearbox works much much better. That's some 7 changes and counting.
Mind, mine is at 260k miles, with first change around 235k miles..

Also, I've put very very strong magnet at the bottom of valve body cover.
I remove it every time I do dump and refit after. Idea is that it holds all ferrous sludge during work, and I get sludge out with oil. The magnet in sump plug is too small to do its job properly.

[Gazdkw]

Thank you so much for such an informative reply.

I will do this asap. I may try and source enough for 1 change later today and order the rest for another change end if this week and future changes.

Is it best to change when the oil is warm? I would imagine it takes quite a long drive for gear box oil to become warm?

Is there a way to check the actual level? I understand I need to fill exactly the same amount I drained out (same as when I did the power steering fluid) but what's to say its the wrong level anyway?

Could you recommend anywhere I can get the oil today that won't cost the earth?

[ThomasG]

A quick one..

Google your nearest Toyota dealer, call them, ask for 5ltrs of T-IV (JWS-3309 compliant).
After all your gearbox was made by Toyota.. (Or its child company- Aisin-Werner)

You could ask Volvo dealer but that means ££££££££££.

Option B:
EBay. Look up Mobil (NOT Mobil1, mind) JWS3309.
I think they'll be about £12per litre incl delivery.

DON'T go Castrol.

I don't remember details, it was few years back, but theres something different in their JWS3309, and it doesnt work well with our boxes.

[ThomasG]

Re: checking the level.

Out of memory (you'll be better off searching forum) but sophisticated thing to do:

Warm up gearbox (drive it for a good while)
Stop on level ground, don't turn the engine off.
Stay for a minute with gearsick in P, then move P-R-N-D-N-R-P stopping at each for 10 seconds.

Pull out dipstick, wipe, push in, pull out, read out.

[reggit]

Face lift car (6speed box?) doesn’t have the gearbox dipstick if I remember, there’s a combined level/drain plug somewhere underneath. Sorry it’s vague, mines manual! Hopefully someone will be able to confirm.