1998 V70 T5 auto pass. side LH side outer CV joint remove?

[SteveSarre]

Hi

I want to replace the outer CV joint passenger side Left hand side
on a 1998 V70 T5 .

I have the 36mm axle nut off
ball joint disconnected
antiroll drop link disconnected
ABS sensor removed
steering knuckle off
strut tower disconnected
old boot cut off

But I have been looking at the outer CV joint and I cannot see any circlip which I think I have to find to release the joint.
The joint moves in and out slightly on the shaft, so it is not frozen on.
I have cleaned the area up, and tapped and banged on the inner cage near where I would expect the circlip to be.

But it is not coming off.

Joint looks original, but boot had been replaced.

I have tried but cannot get the inner joint out of the gearbox, so I am stuck working under the car, which makes things a bit more awkward.

Any suggestions?

Thanks
Steve

[SteveSarre]

PS
I have read these forum posts
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/fo...ic.php?t=56276
and my problem is what erikv11 is asking about

and here is a good write up for replacing the outer boot (but he doesn't remove the outer joint)
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/fo...ic.php?t=29716

[SteveSarre]

OK, I have now removed the whole axle from the gearbox (just a few tugs), and I can now see the circlip as expected inside the outer joint.

But I cannot get the clip to release the axle shaft. Should I be compressing the clip ears, or expanding them?

Thanks
Steve

[volvo again]

Do you need to change the joint or just the boot?
If just the boot, it may be easier to get a stretch one and use a cone to fit.
I had a hell of a job trying to remove the circlip once, it eventually broke in situ and had to replace the whole shaft...you have to expand the circlip.

[SteveSarre]

Hi

I am replacing the outer joint because there was some clacking at full lock, and other vibrations which could possibly be due to a bad joint, plus the boot was split and had been for a few weeks.

I thought it would be fairly easy to get the joint off, then inspect if I wanted, but since I had a new joint from J and R (JR91) whatever I found I would probably put a whole new joint on.

In the end (so far) because I couldn't get the circlip to release, I have had to angle grind the outer joint apart, which if you are careful not to slice into the splines or the axle, is pretty quick, but obviously irreversible!

I have test fitted the new joint on, without the circlip.

So I am just having another cup of tea, then will fit with the clip.

After that hopefully plain sailing.

I will put up photos in due course.

Steve

[PNuT]

they expand outwards & use a mallet to knock them off.... easy with a shaft in a vice!

[SteveSarre]

Hi PNut

I tried that for a while, then gave up.

Current problem is getting the pinch bolt back in. It is a newish bolt, but it is binding on something, which chews the thread and stops it going more than half an inch into the hole.

Does the ball joint have to be rotated in a particular way? Should it be seated fully home?
I'll go back and have another look.

Steve

[Richard_TD]

The ball joint should be inserted far enough for the groove to line up with the pinch bolt hole. If it's in the right place the bolt should go through with a light tap.

[Joe H]

Originally Posted by Richard_TD

The ball joint should be inserted far enough for the groove to line up with the pinch bolt hole. If it's in the right place the bolt should go through with a light tap.

If you look through the pinch bolt hole you will see when the groove is aligned
Joe

[SteveSarre]

Hi both,

Thanks.

This ball joint is integrated into the control arm, not separate bolt on.

Yes, I took the knuckle off and could then see that there was some rust in the hole which stopped the knob on the ball joint from going in far enough.

Rotary Wire brushed the hole, and the ball joint seated fine (recess lined up etc).

Steve