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GUIDE: How to replace the heater resistor

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Old Apr 26th, 2012, 20:58   #1
gatos
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Default GUIDE: How to replace the heater resistor

Since quite a few people have had issues with their heater blowing air at full blast, I decided to make a quick guide of how to replace the heater resistor.

The heater resistor is located in the passenger's foot-well behind the glovebox.

First of all, you need to remove the sound insulation cover under the glovebox. To do this, you need to undo two screws (philips head) located where the yellow arrows are pointing. You can see a close up of the screws highlighted with the yellow circle in the next image. Also remove the plastic cover highlighted in the green circle. You will see why later.




Remove the cover and you can now see the connector plugging in the resistor.


You need to remove these two screws securing the resistor. The bottom screw is very easy to undo, but the top one is harder to get to.


Undo the two screws (marked by the red arrows) and pull out the glovebox


Undo the three screws (yellow circles) and undo the 10mm bolt (red circle)


You can now pull the main console forward just enough to gain access to the top screw


Undo it and pull out the resistor.


The part number of the resistor is 30864189



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Last edited by cumbrianmale; Apr 27th, 2012 at 21:51.
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Old Apr 27th, 2012, 00:16   #2
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Great how-to, Gatos - as always.

When my heater resistor went a couple of years ago, the whole ECC went haywire, randomly blowing hot, blowing cold, the blower switching on and off, air con jamming on, jamming off, stopping responding to the controls, the works. Rather than buy a complete new unit from Volvo, I bought just the transistor (the 'flying saucer' bolted to the heatsink) from Maplins, and replaced the original with the Maplin part. All of this was following a step-by-step guide that I found here on the Forum (I don't have the link handy, but I'm sure it's still available).

I notice in your introduction that the symptom you describe is solely the heater blowing air at full blast. Mine has just developed a new trick: sometimes it does exactly this. Usually, if I park up, when I start up again, everything works correctly again.

Would you say it's likely to be the resistor again?
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Old Apr 27th, 2012, 00:58   #3
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If its only blowing on 6 then its very likely to be the resistor. Nice write up gato. I see there was some bending of frame too. Was that before finding the gap trick?
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Old Apr 27th, 2012, 00:59   #4
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Great guide as always
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Old Apr 27th, 2012, 09:41   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stephend View Post
Great how-to, Gatos - as always.

When my heater resistor went a couple of years ago, the whole ECC went haywire, randomly blowing hot, blowing cold, the blower switching on and off, air con jamming on, jamming off, stopping responding to the controls, the works. Rather than buy a complete new unit from Volvo, I bought just the transistor (the 'flying saucer' bolted to the heatsink) from Maplins, and replaced the original with the Maplin part. All of this was following a step-by-step guide that I found here on the Forum (I don't have the link handy, but I'm sure it's still available).

I notice in your introduction that the symptom you describe is solely the heater blowing air at full blast. Mine has just developed a new trick: sometimes it does exactly this. Usually, if I park up, when I start up again, everything works correctly again.

Would you say it's likely to be the resistor again?
Resistor most probably.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Haizum74 View Post
If its only blowing on 6 then its very likely to be the resistor. Nice write up gato. I see there was some bending of frame too. Was that before finding the gap trick?
The bending was already there from before..... I did this on the car I will be breaking, not my good cars....
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Old Apr 27th, 2012, 09:46   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stephend View Post
Great how-to, Gatos - as always.

When my heater resistor went a couple of years ago, the whole ECC went haywire, randomly blowing hot, blowing cold, the blower switching on and off, air con jamming on, jamming off, stopping responding to the controls, the works. Rather than buy a complete new unit from Volvo, I bought just the transistor (the 'flying saucer' bolted to the heatsink) from Maplins, and replaced the original with the Maplin part. All of this was following a step-by-step guide that I found here on the Forum (I don't have the link handy, but I'm sure it's still available).

I notice in your introduction that the symptom you describe is solely the heater blowing air at full blast. Mine has just developed a new trick: sometimes it does exactly this. Usually, if I park up, when I start up again, everything works correctly again.

Would you say it's likely to be the resistor again?
Sadly the resistor replacement is not the end of the story!!! If your unlucky!

Some say it`s the pots on the board but rare if it is, if you put a meter across the pot contacts and move the knob the meter will give different readings so it is working ok.......i have now arrived at the fact that it is the chips on the PCB that go faulty.

Same for the blower speed. There is a relay next to the blower which if you disconnect the blower will stop for full speed as this relay is full speed only because of the power used it protects the board. I have put a good quality switch between the contacts so i can manual use full blower speed with the fascia knob turned down.

But now my heater switch is either stuck on full blast hot air or cold!!!! It is not the pots as already stated as i have changed them for good measure it is the PCB board.
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Old Apr 27th, 2012, 11:06   #7
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i too have had the "radom fan speed" be related to the control panel, rather than the blower resistor/transistor pack.
fan on X, would go at x, then slow or fast or the number it was set to, replacment blower resistor didnt do it, needed new control panel.
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