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V70/850 Dashboard Removal Guide

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Old Sep 11th, 2010, 21:40   #1
Paffel
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Default V70/850 Dashboard Removal Guide

As promised some time ago, heres a guide to removing the dashboard, including the steering wheel, centre console, window wipers and any other bits that get in the way!
I also have this available in a Microsoft Word document if anyone wants it.


Enjoy!


V70/850 Dashboard Removal Guide
– published 11 Sep 2010

Intro
Hey everyone,
Being as i’ve taken my V70 dashboard on and off so many times, thought I may as well write up a quick and easy process to do it! This refers to my Phase 1 V70 (1996-1999), but may also apply in parts or whole to other models too.
Anyway, before I waffle...

Tools Required
Here’s a list of tools you will need, and some that would be helpful.
• Small Precision Flathead Screwdriver (Or something equivalent)
• Set of Torx Drivers, or Screwdriver equivalent – sizes T20, T25, and T30 as a minimum.
• Ratchet Wrench with metric sockets – 8mm, 10mm, 13mm, and 19mm as a minimum.
• Long-nosed pliers, or other similar mechanism.
• Gloves (As you will rip your hands to shreds if you’re not careful! I got some thorn resistant ones from a certain worldwide supermarket chain.)

The process
For ease of use, i’ve divided this into sections. This is my logical order of doing it, but if you only want to replace one part, then just jump right head to it.

1. Centre Console and associated plastics/buttons,
2. Top Half of Dashboard/Fascia, Speedometer/Clocks and Glovebox,
3. Window Wipers and motor, fusebox lid and ‘under the bonnet’ work,
4. Steering Wheel, Instrument stalks and plastic shrouds, and finally
5. Kickplates and Lower Half of Dashboard.

Allow a good few hours to remove and refit the dashboard, It can be removed and refitted within 90 minutes, but I urge you to take your time and make sure everythings seated correctly, no cables are trapped underneath the dashboard and you havn’t forgotten anything (as its a pain to remove everything again!)
I’m also assuming you’ve disconnected the battery, this should be done before you follow any instructions here. The battery negative terminal is a 10mm socket – release it and remove it off the battery.

Section One - Centre Console and associated plastics/buttons
The centre console needs to be removed before you can remove the dashboard.
Inventory: 2x T25 Screws, 2x 8mm Bolts

1. First step is to remove the coin tray and heated switch controls. To make it more accessible, remove the ashtray (the thing with “PUSH” on it) by pushing it, and then pull the tray out.



2. Remove the centre coin tray (between the two heated switches) by lifting it open and pushing it towards the front of the car. You can then put your fingers through the hole, and push the heated switches back through. To remove the switch, hold onto the white connector, and use your other hand to pull the switch off.



3. With both switches removed, you can now remove the whole tray as a unit. Put your fingers through the coin tray hole once again, grab the tray and give it a quick tug. This will release it and you can then remove it.
At this point, you can reach in the hole and push the gearstick gaitor up to release it.
Strange as it sounds, you’ll need to release it, and then feed it back through the hole! This is so you can remove the centre console later. See the below picture if you’re unsure.




4. You now have exposed 2 screws that need removing underneath the ashtray. These are T25 screws, be careful not to drop them!




5. You also need to release the handbrake gaiter.
To do this, the plastic that surrounds it must be released by first gripping and pushing/pulling it towards the nearside of the car. This will release a clip. You then need to push/pull it towards the front of the car to remove it completely.
Once this is released, you can pull it off the handbrake lever and remove it.




6. Remove the cable clusters you’ve now exposed inside the handbrake cavity. Squeeze them from both sides along the long edges and they should remove with little effort.



7. The centre console is now held on by 2 bolts, accessible by listing up the small plastic section in the armrest, next to the OBD port. Removing this plastic will expose the bolts. Remove them both and keep them safe. These are 8mm bolts.



8. Lifting the centre console from the back, you can gradually lift, wiggle, and remove it from its place. Generally, lift it up from the rear a little, then pull it towards the back of the car. Then up again – as long as you do it gently, it’ll remove no problems. Make sure you’ve fed the gearstick gaiter through the hole, and you’ve unplugged those cables!



9. The console removed:



9a. You can now remove the armrest and wiring loom here if necessary. There’s around 7 screws in total for the loom and 4 for the armrest. If you need help with this feel free to contact me.

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Section Two - Top Half of Dashboard/Fascia, Speedometer/Clocks and Glovebox

Inventory: (Dashboard – 11x T25 Screws),(Speedo – 2x Hinges),(Glovebox – 6x T25 Screws)

The top half of the dashboard is held on by 11 screws, but most of these are hidden. When you’ve removed the top half, you can also take out the speedometer/clocks.
The glovebox isn’t essential to remove (unless you’re removing the passenger large compartment underneath the glovebox) but it does make it easier when handling the lower dashboard later on.

10. I’ll show you how to remove the Top half of the dashboard first. Look at the below diagram.



Notice the plastic nozzle on the side of the dashboard, the air vent and the speaker grille on the top. These all conceal one screw each for the dashboard.
To remove these, pop a precision screwdriver between the dashboard and the plastic piece, and pry it out. (Best place for the vent is just beneath the rotary switch, for the plastic nozzle - underneath it, and for the speaker grille, from the edge nearest the back of the car). Repeat this for the passenger side – but there won’t be one in the speaker grille.

11. 2 more screws are located on the top side of the speedometer cavity. Look up at the underside of the dashboard, and you’ll see them just inside the speedometer housing.



12. Open the glovebox lid, and there’s 2 more screws that screw the lower half to the upper. Again, look up from the bottom and you’ll see them – they screw upwards into the dashboard.



13. Theres 2 more screws now, hidden behind the centre vent. Remove the vent, and then remove the 2 screws.



14. You can now simply lift the top half of the dashboard off and out of the car. It’s heavier than it looks and will bend a lot when it’s removed (its quite flexible).



15. With the top half of the dashboard out of the way, you can now remove the speedometer.
You’ll notice the wiring looms leading into it – remove them all. There’s a fourth one leading into the black box on the top.
Unfortunately I didn;t get a picture of this section, but to release the speedo, there are 2 gold hinges on either side on the top of it. Release the hinges and lift the speedometer out. Move it towards to middle of the car if you’re having trouble wiggling it out.


16. Now you can focus on the glovebox.
After opening the lid, there are 6 screws located all around the front of the glovebox.
Remove all 6, and the glovebox will remove. Put your hand inside the glovebox, grip it and pull it to remove it.



This now makes it easier to access the wiring loom behind the dashboard if you need to.

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Section Three - Window Wipers and motor, Fusebox lid and ‘under the bonnet’ work

This section covers the work that you need to do outside the car to release the dashboard.

Inventory: 6x 10mm bolts, 2x 13mm nuts, 9x t25 screws.

17. First things first open the bonnet! We need to remove the black plastic section that’s near the windscreen, surrounds the fusebox and also covers the window wiper mechanism.



18. With the bonnet up, we need to remove the window wipers. At the base of each wiper, there is a black cap. Using the screwdriver, pry this cap off. They have a tendency to fly, so watch where it goes!



19. This will expose the nut that needs removing. Its s 13mm nut. Once this is off, grab hold of the wiper arm, and give it a wiggle. It will eventually lift off the thread, and remove it. Repeat this for both front wipers.





20. Next is the Fusebox lid. This is held on by 4 T25 screws on each corner. Undo these screws, and remove the lid.



21. With this now done, you can concentrate on removing the plastic cowl. Its used in the drainage system and as such, its connected with 2 hoses. These have clips attached to them which need loosening so you can slip the hose off. A pair of long nose pliers are ideal for this job, as pictured.
Pop the pliers over, squeeze the clip and pull the hose. Leave the clip on the hose as it’s easier to reattach this way!



22. You can now look at removing the cowl. Its held in by 5 screws, evenly spaced across the width of the car. These are (you guessed it) T25, but have a much longer thread.
Remove these, and the cowl will be loose. Grab it and pull it towards the front of the car, and also upwards. Pay particular attention to the way it’s fitted and how it fits in.

Orange Circles are actual ones, the green ones are approximate locations based on my memory.




23. With the cowl off, you can now look at the window wiper mechanism.
It has 2 bolts, both were 10mm on mine but they may be 13mm. It is also held on in a circular hole on the other end. After disconnecting the wiring connector, undo the two bolts and watch how it comes out of the holding, so you know how it goes back in!
P.S. Ignore the blue wire in my picture, that’s for the sub





24. Lift and remove the mechanism and you’ll see the bulkhead. There’s 4 bolts located here going into the car. These 4 bolts hold the lower dashboard in place. They are 10mm, and have ridiculously long threads. Remove these 4 bolts to complete this section.



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Section Four - Steering Wheel, Instrument stalks and plastic shrouds

Inventory: 2x T30 capped screws, 8x t25 screws, 4 clips.

25. Onto the steering wheel. Before this part, make sure you’ve disconnected the battery. Also, take care with this section, as you’re dealing with an airbag module in the steering wheel.

You’ll need to release the Airbag module first, and there are 2 screws for this. They can;t be removed completely so you’ll just need to undo them. They’re located behind the steering wheel, one on either side.

Pop the key in the ignition and turn it to setting “I”. This will release the wheel so you can turn it. Turn the wheel turn, to gain access to the hole.

A torx driver works best for me here, pop it in the hole, seat it in the screw head and start turning. REMEMBER if you’re sitting in the drivers seat and undoing the bolt, you’ll need to turn it clockwise to undo it (this is because you’re accessing the screw from the opposite side!)

Its a T30 screw, but a T27 will do the job. When you’ve released one side (you’ll be able to pull the airbag module so it is loose), turn the wheel the other way and repeat for the other side of the wheel.



26. With those screws undone, and the steering straightened back to normal, you can lift the Airbag module off CAREFULLY. Its still attached to the sensor, so take care removing it. Unclip the sensor at the rear of the airbag module (Green clip), and put the module in a safe place, where it can’t fall or be dropped.



27. You’ll see a screw in the bottom left that holds the yellow tape in place. Unscrew this, and insert it in the hole in the top right. This will hold the wheel in alignment while you undo it.
28. Using a 19mm socket you can now undo the central bolt. Brace the steering wheel with your body/arm/unspecified limb, undo this bolt and remove it.






29. You’ll now see the grooved bolt that your steering wheel sits on. You can also see the screw I put in the top right. Put some markers on both sides of the groovy bolt, so you know how your wheel goes on. Else you’ll be driving around with it at a funny angle!



30. Simply pull the steering wheel off now, and remove it.



31. Onto the shroud. This is the plastic section that remains on the steering column. Look at it from underneath, and you’ll see 3 T25 screws that need undoing. Unscrew these.



32. The top half of the shroud is a rubber cover. It’s secured by 4 quick releasing clips towards the front of the car. To remove it, simply push the clips through the rubber holes, and remove.



33. The lower half of the shroud needs some manipulation to remove it. You’ll have to feed it over the ignition barrel, and it will separate from the upper half. Once you’ve manoeuvred it over the ignition barrel, it will remove quite freely.



34. Now you can turn your attention to the indicator stalks. Each stalk is held on by 2 t25 screws, one at the top and one at the bottom. There will be 2 wiring connectors on each side (2+1 if you don;t have cruise control) that need disconnecting. Take these off, and undo the screws. These are also quite long-threaded.



With these off, the dashboard is now only held on by 4 t25 screws. Next up is the radio and climate control unit.


35. Assuming you have a standard radio, Volvo kindly put the releasing mechanism on the radio itself. Other radios may require you to obtain special keys to remove them, available from all good motor parts shops. Push the small rectangle in, which releases the handle, and then pull it out. Do this for both sides simultaneously.



36. This will remove the radio, and show you the wiring at the back. There’s 2 looms and an aerial cable (again, I have more as I wired the subwoofer in) – disconnect all these by squeezing the wide edge, then remove the unit. You may find this easier if you move the gearstick.



37. Stick your hand in the newly created hole and use it to reach in and push the back of the climate control unit. Give it a good push and it will release. There’s also 2 looms on the back of this, release them and remove the unit.



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Section Five - Kickplates and Lower Half of Dashboard.

Inventory: 7x/9x t25 screws.

This section will show you how to remove the passenger and driver kickplate if you need.
Imagine sitting in the seat, and raising your foot up – this is the kickplate.

38. Depending on the type of kickplate you have, there may be just one screw holding it on or several.
Drivers side is traditionally a one 25 screw job, right in the middle, underneath the steering wheel. Undo this, and slide the plate towards the back of the car to release it. Unclip the one wire that leads to the bulb.

Passengers side may be the type that has a large storage compartment. To remove this, open the glovebox lid, and there will be two/four t25 screws holding it in place. Unscrew these, unclip the bulb while releasing it.







39. Underneath the drivers side, you’ll find a large yellow wiring connector. This is the main power port for the dashboard, and needs disconnecting. Grab the release mechanism on the side, and pull it out to the side of the connector. This will release it – you may need to feed it through underneath the dashboard, so it won;t obstruct the removal.



40. You can now undo those 4 t25 screws that hold the dashboard in place. 2 of them are located in the middle of the dashboard, near the hazard switch and gearstick. Undo these and retain them.



41. The last 2 are on either side, hiding beneath the front door sills. Grab hold of the sill near the dashboard, and move it out of the way. (Alternatively remove it by pulling it out.) You can then see the screw going into the dashboard. Repeat this for the passenger side.
Don;t worry, the dashboard won;t fall – its still held in by its shape.



42. And now for the golden moment, you can remove the dashboard. It’s a heavy beast, and while perfectly possible on your own, recruit some help if you can.
If you have to do it by yourself, use the steering column to rest it on while you remove it.
Grab hold and lift it, wiggling it if it gets stuck. Be careful that you’ve not left anything attached, and it feels free to move. Once its been released, aim to feed it out of one of the doors, but not while you’re sitting in the seat as you’re likely to get stuck.



43. After its removed, you can access everything on the dashboard, and underneath it! Next, get yourself a cup of tea and have a nice pat on the back!




Hope that this guide is useful for some



__________________
Current; '99 V70R AWD, '01 S60 T5

Previous Volvos; '98 V70XC, '97 V40 2.0, '94 855 T5, '02 S60 D5, '97 V70 AWD, '90 740 Turbo, '97 855 T5 Auto,
99 V70 10V, '04 S80 D5

Last edited by Alec Dawe; Mar 17th, 2012 at 07:24. Reason: As requested by poster
Paffel is offline  
 

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