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What's the P80 850 V70 S70 C70 Killers & Std. Faults

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Old Feb 21st, 2017, 02:07   #1
CNGBiFuel
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Default What's the P80 850 V70 S70 C70 Killers & Std. Faults

What are the P80 V70 S70 C70 Killers & Common Faults

The aim is for the collective to create a single thread that signposts these. NOT to be a highjacking thread on how to sort the various issue, but a collection of links to the solutions.

These cars are known to be good for galactic miles with the caveat that a few items are kept on top of. I'm with RobertDIY of Youtube fame for being a great proponant of this. The things don't rot, unlike Mercs etc of a similar vintage even the W124 supposedly made of granite is rot-box by comparison. Watch a few key points, the P80 V70 S70 C70 Killers don't seem to get near us for 300,000+ miles. Few cars can do this before becoming uneconomic to run, in my experience not a P80 becuase parts are cheap and plentiful.

Doa ll you can to list what you understand to be the things these cars need doing to them to get to 300,000+

REPEAT DO NOT ENTER INTO HOW To Sort the issue or it'll bog down.

I'll kick off:

1) The Heater core. A Known issue. These leak causing head gasket failure and to the breakers piel they go. A 30 part kills many a P80

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_lKq7c5I5GU

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OdKzDfvOoQA

2) Overheating Auto Transmissions: My hobby horse. Manuals are pretty much bullet-proof, and so are autos if you flush or fit a cooler. Google Gibbons Flush, you'll find all you need ot know. If not most won't get to high miles. I have 50 that says your ATF is black. Damage is being done. Not an issue if you don't drive the thing, but for the rest of us...

http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=259661

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e-ME5_JcJ7g

http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=235190

http://forums.t5d5.org/topic/2926-ma...9992000-r-awd/


3) ETM Late 1998/99 only. This subject ahs been done to death. You want a Sacer ETM module. Contactless, don't bohter with any Magneto Marelli whatever they tell you.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rCNvsag0dig

Information only. With links if you can.

Can somebody do the ABS module, door-stay, suspension bushes, etc etc. Who's next`/...
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Old Feb 21st, 2017, 09:39   #2
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4) PCV:

This one also short and sweet. PCV puts many cars in the crusher. The factory fit system is undersized after cars get outside warranty mileages and clogs. Crankcase pressure builds, blows seals and the job to repalce these cheap as chips seals is so involved (likley the transmission is coming out) to be non-viable. Cars at 120,000+ burn oil or still have less than ideal pressures with factory repalcements. There's many ways to do this. Worst way is to fit more of the same parts that caused the issue in the first. Particualry as the engine is now getting tired, so needs an PCV upgrade. Numerous threads but this one is top of the tree

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/fo...ic.php?t=53448

Until i did the mod. shown in this link, mine still burnt oil. 100 odd for a few bits of hose that kills these cars? - don't buy it, factory kit is overpriced junk, amounting to a few tubes. Works fine for the first 100,000. Hose is Hose. If you drive the thing, ie 150,000+ do it for less and do it better following the link above. Then stick to fully synth oil. Saves a fortune in oil too. Note: Race cars have pumps to reduce crankcase pressure for a reason, can't recommend thsi mod highly enough.

How to check yours:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FIRoc0VxLd4:
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Old Feb 21st, 2017, 10:33   #3
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Kind of linked to the PCV avove, rear crank seal sees a few off as it's a gearbox out job to change a 5 seal.

Seems to effect earlier cars more, or perhaps they're more neglected now.

Blocked PCV puts extra strain on all the seals and unfortunately one of the first to go is the hardest to change.
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Old Feb 21st, 2017, 10:34   #4
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Would also suggest rear delta-link bushes, as they're a ball ache to change so the cost is often uneconomical.
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Old Feb 21st, 2017, 10:52   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doingitsideways View Post
Would also suggest rear delta-link bushes, as they're a ball ache to change so the cost is often uneconomical.
I did two in around an hour on Sunday.... Not sure what the fuss is about!
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Old Feb 21st, 2017, 14:49   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PNuT View Post
I did two in around an hour on Sunday.... Not sure what the fuss is about!
Yup agree with you there.Did some last year without any speclal tools.
Burn the old one out with a blowlamp and drift the new one in with a copper mallet.
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Old Feb 21st, 2017, 16:14   #7
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If not done already then I think the following (in addition to what's already been said) will need doing to get to 300k miles:

They do rot, but only in 2 places (that I know of): the rear exhaust hanger and the fuel filter bracket.

Headlight reflectors go dull & the silvering WILL come off when you try to polish it.

The steering racks aren't brilliant, particularly the later SMI rack where a bracket breaks and has to be welded. Inner track rods will develop play but are easily replaced.

Engine mounts (lower front, lower rear (PITA on a turbo car), side (under cambelt), gearbox mount and top mounts will need doing.

Fuel pump relay.

Heated front seats - was subject to a recall, make sure it's been done.

Headlight switch - again was subject to a recall, make sure it's been done.

Aux belt - the change interval is less than the cambelt. Leave it too long and it will snap, wrap round the cambelt and wreck the engine.

Radiator (particularly auto's and manuals up to 99 that have oil coolers). They can break causing oil to mix with coolant which may show the signs of head gasket failure with engine oil or wreck an autobox.

Rear shock upper mounts - replace with the nivomat mounts which are a lot stronger.

ABS ecu - solder joints fail causing various spurious fault codes.

Obviously other normal service stuff will need doing as well.
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Old Feb 21st, 2017, 18:25   #8
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Steering racks for sure. Have to partially drop the suvframe, which eats up labour and there is a big problem with supply of good recon units. Most folks report almost instant leaks on them, then have to go through hassle of swapping then out again....

On the diesels a killer part is the maf sensor on the 1994/1998 cars, it's been discontinued for nearly 10 years and the supply has dried up through volvo, vw/vag and other UK routes I know of, no one in UK can refurbished them and supply from Europe is not exactly that much healthier. Car will run fine on one until it's almost totally gone, then you get problems.

These cars can also develop rot on the rear frame rails where the boot floor is attached, not at all hard to fix, very easy to cut out and weld in new material though never seen one actuality go through, normally just a clean and underseal before its 20th birthday will suffice.

Abs ecu for sure.

These p80 cars areview often seen as the last real volvo, even though the rwd boys will say the 9xx/v90 cars were, and really really can last well over 20 years /300k so long as you take care of the minors before they become majors.

I'm already seeing 2010/2012 vauxhall and fords in the scrap yards as uneconomic mot failures, crazy!
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Old Feb 22nd, 2017, 08:10   #9
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Proper stuff from acshortt5 & Brickman. Tight, concise, informative. Well done. I can see it already, this will be a spanker of thread.

I for one did not think to look at my Aux / Serpentine belt. Already I can confrim, found mine in worse condition than my cambelt. Jeeezz. Golden [acshortt5 ] Thank you.

Door Stays Check strap wear
Usually it's the driver's door side that goes first. You get a popping noise as the door pings under the strain. A worn door stay will flex the door and eventually metal fatigue sets in and b*gg*rs the door pillar near the strap/stay. Catch it quick and it's a 20 for a new check-strap on eBlag and five minutes with a 10mm socket. Leave the door double 'popping' and clunking for too long and you'll need to weld it up, a hassle and soemthing you are forced to do to stop the door swinging, this wrecks the rust-proofing and the door pillar starts to rot. The welding means the heat has the door pillar lose it's ductility, goes brittle, so the weld breaks under the strain, and downhill from there.

http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...k-strap-repair

http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=58287


Battery Hold-down Clamp
Numerous P80 cars lose these. Subsequent owners don't know they've got them missing. These clip / roll-over the end of your battery tray. Missing, battery looks (kind of) secure. Eventually the battery comes out of the tray and on the next RH bend, slides into the top transmission cooler lines (on autos) pushing the hose/ line off. ATF pumps everywhere but back into the box, box is trashed. Not many will put another box in a 20 year old car, car goes to the crusher for a peice of plastic sourced on eBlag for a fiver. Be sure you have yours.
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Old Feb 22nd, 2017, 08:51   #10
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Driver's Door Window Cluster
Always playing-up. Go to the breakers and you'll struggle to find a car with one still in it.. These are pricey new and cleaning (Use Deoxit) helps but the real fix is a new cluster. Only these are 120 in RHD form, and they'll still go again. But... on eBay LHD drive pattern versions are sold by the Chinese - better made, with more spark-suppression and come in at 20 delivered. At that price, they've become throwaway. Only they won't work in a RHD car, but can be cobbled in - with a bit of prodding.

Here's my hack:

http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=262138
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