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What's the P80 850 V70 S70 C70 Killers & Std. Faults

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Old Feb 22nd, 2017, 09:08   #11
CNGBiFuel
Classic P80 1999 BiFuel
 

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Roof Bars / Roof Rack
Yes I know, not strictly a fault and certainly not a killer, but the purpose-made banana-shape integral bars that were seen on the XC. (lovely low-profile things they is) are hardly visble and make no wind howling like those lash-ups by Thule et al. The square section things are so noisy. Noise aside, if you're putting bike racks on top of the square things, it looks like a madman-scaffolder was let loose on your roof. Nope, all else equal, these bars is 'wot u gets'.

Pix below: 'spose it depends on how you like your filth...
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File Type: jpg RoofBarsIntegral 02.jpg (72.9 KB, 42 views)
File Type: jpg v70_1999_cargo_racks_9483630_02_650px.jpg (101.7 KB, 46 views)
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Old Feb 22nd, 2017, 09:31   #12
CNGBiFuel
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Auto gear lever Button
Already a sticky on here. I'll mention nonetheless. 20 year old plastic goes brittle. The auto shift release button goes the same way. A cheap enough fix:

http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=223015


V70 Estate Back door trim panel

These fall off or rattle. There's repair kit to fix-up brittle retaining lugs and push fit connectors, but I'm afraid I can't keep the faith. I am but a fallen soul. These kits fail too. Just shove 4 x long self-tappers thru' the whole shebang and have done.
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Old Feb 22nd, 2017, 10:43   #13
CNGBiFuel
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Running your MP3 / Handfree thru' your existing head unit
You can do this via GROM AUX-3 or Yatour interfaces, but these things are after-thoughts, cost more than they're worth, and don't work half as well as doiing it properly. ie putting your own input into the back. If you can use a soldering iron or even if you're a bit ham-fisted in this department, this is simple and the way to go, even if the GROM AUX-3 or Yatour interfaces were free.

Find the various hacks for the stock head units listed. I can vouch personally for the SC805 hack but ones for the HU/ SC 901 800/801 etc etc are all found with the Google Poodle.

You don't lose your CD mutli-changer either, it looks stock, Barrification avoided. Cheap too. But as i said, even if the GROM AUX-3 or Yatour lash-up interfaces were free and I'm not saying they don't work because they do, but if this simple hack cost what they do, the hack would still be the way to go.

Fitted with the optional amps available, (on ebay daily for 35-40) and with these systems being pretty much hte best you could get back in the day, they fair very well against all but the very best, even today. So unless you've hearing akin to a fruit bat, or an extreme hi-fi buff, they do fine.
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Old Feb 22nd, 2017, 11:04   #14
John97Tdi
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Not really a car killer but.....
Interior plastic trim - on cars of this age everything you touch either seems to lose tabs or screw holes or actually break unless you are very careful/lucky. I can imagine many cars have been consigned to the scrap heap because of loose/rattling/missing trim. I now try to leave removing internal trim for warmer weather when the plastics don't seem so fragile. Two part superglue for plastics as well as Gorilla glue gaffer tape are my personal favourite, with epoxy putty to rebuild damaged screw holes.

On a related issue the scrappers near me have stopped keeping mk1 volvos since 'there is no demand anymore' which, if its 'par for the course' throughout the country, is something that will certainly affect their long term economic viability.

Cheers for a good thread.

John
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Old Feb 22nd, 2017, 11:33   #15
CNGBiFuel
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Yes, a good point, a warm day is best if working on the dash, one large brittle lump of plastic. Thanks for the thanks... (under his breathe) says... how long will it be beofre its railroaded off at a tangent by one of the knuckle-draggers...


You makes a good point guv'. Hence:

Hard to get parts
Some parts, if available are so damned pricey, you'd think we were driving Mercs. Nivomats spring to mind.

Mercedes have made it a deliberate policy to price 10+ YO cars to the crusher with parts prices.

Fortunately aside from Nivomats et al we can still go to the breakers' yards, but you're right, you can no longer bank on one being there. Brake linings will never be an issue, you'll get brake parts for almost any car ever made, however I'm starting to hoard the more obscure parts. (Bifuel parts is my thing) To get to 300,000 some of you might need to do the same.


Bifuel LPG/ CNG Necam Stepper Motors

Keep these lubricated with GT85, not WD40 or cry in your beer. Keep the dizzy clean. Ignore this and you'll likely be speaking to me for a another. Last year you couldn't buy this part at any price. This part unique to Volvo with unique to Volvo price. Necam made a small batch recently, but this part has to be made obsolete soon. I bang on about this here:

http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/forumdisplay.php?f=183

Larger 302mm Front discs Upgrade
These got put on go-faster models like the T & R models. Plod had them specc'd on motorway patrol vehicles. A mod over and above a fault but a worthwhile one, not just for boy-racers. Gives a marked improvement to brakes, quick, easy and cheap to do. Strictly speaking, requires Perfo rims, but with so much meat on those calipers (I've cut one open) what this guy advocates whilst looking very slapdash, nay dangerous I see no issue with. He uses the easier to get Colomba rims. Of course, use Perfos if you can get them. For a while, the caliper carrier required for this mod was hard to get. I believe now back in production.

http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showth...olumba+caliper

I'll add more later.

Keep 'em coming gents...
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Old Feb 27th, 2017, 15:14   #16
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Some more common faults for you:

MAF sensor - if it fails you probably can't start the car and it will be chucking black smoke (unburnt fuel) out the exhaust. Unplugging it will default the ecu to a set table of fueling and let the car run to get you home.

Cam position sensor. If you are replacing this then also budget for the cam seal which is probably leaking and the cause of the failed sensor. Volvo also do uprated (higher tensile) bolts (2 x bolts) for this now so get those as well.

Thermostat bolts - the originals are prone to snapping & volvo now do higher tensile ones.

Coolant temperature sensor - Can lead to non/difficult starting and poor mpg. Get a volvo one for this, an aftermarket one gave faulty readings and was a poor (leccy connector) fit. They changed the sensor several times during the P80 cars run so take care when ordering - volvo is safest for this.

Immobilizer anntenna ring - can fail leading to the car cutting out after starting. You can try and clean the contacts but a new one is only circa 35 and 10 minutes to swap.

Ignition switch - when it fails it can cause warning lights to appear on the dash and speedo/rev counter to not work. If you turn the key slightly back and forth and the lights go out/things alter then that is the issue. About 40 from volvo and fairly easy to change. Keep the receipt though as a replacement failed on me after a week!

Aux power - the little connector (with 4 red wires bunched together) on the top of the positive (+ve) lead on the battery. If this comes loose you can have the engine cut out randomly (every time you go over a bump basically) and was a sod to try and fault find as I checked everything else before getting there and no fault codes were stored. Check the contact surface is clean and the nut tightened.

Autobox PNP switch - When this stops working properly common things are your reverse lights don't work without pushing/pulling the selector. Can lead to non starting in N (neutral) or not at all. It's a fair bit of work to get in there, repair kits are available to replace the contacts but personally I had volvo sort it with a volvo part.
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Old Feb 27th, 2017, 17:27   #17
CNGBiFuel
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Thank you acshortt5. Didn't know about most of those, and forgotten about the others. Thank you.

V70 / 850 Estate Rear Roller Load cover Blind aka parcel shelf
These cars have a roller-blind to cover, in Volvo-speak the 'cargo' area. By misuse, letting go and watching them smash-up, (and old brittle plastics), or putting stuff on top, these fail to retract to store. Various kits are available but frankly, save your money, judicious use of a few cable ties to hold the roller ends together has fixed mine.

Not usually necessary anyway, Kit shown here:
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Old Feb 27th, 2017, 18:14   #18
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Not a "fault" as such but brake judder after replacing rear discs.

This happened to me and it took a lot of searching before I found the solution.

When replacing rear discs you can experience a really violent judder which comes through the car and braking power is reduced. In my case the judder was not apparent immediately but definately made itself known!

The solution is to fit a volvo shim kit. It's a kit of 4 metal shims which fit between the caliper piston and brake pad and they are specially shaped (only fit one way). They are reuseable to if you do this job and don't already have them I suggest buying them and if you have got them don't forget to swap them onto the new pads.
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Old Feb 28th, 2017, 17:15   #19
CNGBiFuel
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You've reminded me of another. That shim/anti-squeal kit is included in factory and Mintex kits. A Teflon shim. Pattern pads don't work as well.

Front Pads: - PATTERN MANUFACTURERS USUALLY ONLY SELL ONE TYPE OF PAD WHEN THERE WILL BE THREE
Factory pads are high-powder, whereas many pattern pads are sold as low-powder, actually something that is sold as a virtue! And sucked-up as such. [Often the reason for f&3kw$t boy-racer warped-discs threads, it'll be a pad issue]. Mintex are on eBay and come about 60% dearer but work and make powder like factory sets and bed down well.

NOTE: There are three pad types for the front and if you remember your school-boy physics you'll realise why. If you've just plonked on the first set you or your parts seller could see, REMEMBER: PATTERN MANUFACTURERS USUALLY ONLY SELL ONE TYPE.

Clearly the 'Laws of Physics' do not apply to them.

And if you've been to school and you still don't know why there's three, clearly the state has frittered money educating you. Because you would certainly have been taught this. Please for all our sakes, leave your brakes alone.

Fortunately, the people at Mintex were not donkeys in school.

http://www.mintex.brakebook.com

MDB1614 15”
MDB1984 16” 302mm
MDB2676 17”

MDB2129 - Rears all cars
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Old Feb 28th, 2017, 17:44   #20
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You can order police pads for the front which are a different compound and will take more abuse than the Volvo standard pad for the 280mm or 302mm front brakes.

I was under the impression that with front pads (standard Volvo) there is only one for the 15 inch (280mm) and 16 inch (302mm) as both use the same calipers. The bigger brakes just use bigger discs, longer hoses and different carriers to space the calipers further out.
The 17 inch kit was totally different with different calipers, floating discs etc and has unique pads.
The 15/16/17 inch reference was a Volvo reference related to the wheel size required to clear said brakes.

Clearly aftermarket manufacturers may make numerous compounds but for Volvo oem AFAIK there are only 2 for the normal front brakes (standard and plod). I have no experience with the 17 inch kit but would very much like a set!
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