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S40 / V40 '96-'04 General Forum for the Volvo S40 and V40 (Classic) Series from 1995-2004.

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Intro to T4

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Old May 5th, 2019, 18:57   #1
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Last Online: Nov 20th, 2019 17:02
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Brighton
Default Intro to T4

Hi guys

First post to introduce myself.

After many years wanting a ďTĒ Volvo I picked up a nice 2 owner FSH T4 v40 for £500 a month or so ago. What a motor. Itís a phase 1 completely standard 98 plate with 130k on the clock in what sometimes is gold brown bronze red colour haha.

I have spent a fair few hours doing my own research on here and have been given some amazing knowledge that has helped with a few things already.

Iíll be getting some pictures sorted tommorow once Iíve finished cleaning up the wheels hey are badly pitted.

I have a list of things I want to do to it and some I have read good advice against so wonít be. But before any of that I have a few problems that I could use a few opinions on.

Moderators i looked for an intro forum before posting g here and couldnít see one so please move if needs be and Iíll start up a new help thread here. IF not let me know and Iíll just add to this one.

Having Been a member of car forums for different manufacturers I know how damn good they are and wanna start off on the right foot
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Old May 6th, 2019, 20:29   #2
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Location: Beccles

Welcome to the 40 series club, great cars aren't they, I'm on my third, my first one was what I believe the colour you're describing is which is autumn gold, how they came up with that name I don't know as it's more of a burnt orange than anything.

The 2002 t4 in my signature is car number 2 and is waiting for it's replacement engine to be fitted, currently in car number 3, which is a visually similar but non turbo so not nearly as much fun.

All three of mine were (and are) hovering close to the 200k mark during my ownership and they really are pretty bulletproof, just make sure oil changes are done frequently (I don't know the specified service intervals, I do mine every 10k) and you won't go far wrong, I usually use shell helix 5w30 fully synthetic as it's one of the best specced but the 3rd car is now on 5w30 magnatec because it was on half price at tescos.

Oh yeah, not sure of the turbo powered cars are affected, but check the lower radiator hose, clip, as the one from the factory wasn't stainless and they can rust through and fall off, which blows the hose off, resulting in all the coolant being shed in quite spectacular fashion, I had it happen in my first one, it's amazing how quickly you can whack cable ties around a hose and pour evian spring water into a header tank when you're very nearly going to be late for a really important training course
02 V40 T4 S, "Sargent silver" she's back!
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Old May 7th, 2019, 00:01   #3
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Location: Chadderton, Oldham

There's no particular weak point with these cars, but they're getting old so expect stuff to break every few months.

Except perhaps the rear calipers, and by that, I mean the handbrake. These are notorious for siezing. The easiest test is to drive the car slowly, select neutral and then roll to a halt. If it glides to an eventual stop, no throwback at all, you're good. If it comes to a abrupt stop, you'll feel the slight throwback after stopping, chances are the handbrake is sticking.

I'm also on my third. No, wait, fourth! Yikes!
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Old May 9th, 2019, 09:09   #4
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Last Online: Jul 3rd, 2020 16:39
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Location: Porto

Welcome to the club. Mine is a 98 T4 as well.

Main relevant issues are burnt exhaust valves, fragile gearboxes and fragile plastic plugs and accessories around the engine due to high temperature exposures.

As always, a good maintenance should keep you safe
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Old May 9th, 2019, 19:12   #5
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Hey, a new member with "the T4 sickness"...

Welcome, Ginga in the above post said it all, in the end T4 is a very nice ride!
Phase 1 MY99 Manual V40 T4
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Old Jun 10th, 2019, 21:19   #6
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So an update..

Still in love...

However. I have terrible wastegate rattle. Attempted adjusting the actuator arm but the nut is seized completely. So do I purchase a 2nd hand turbo or a new actuator and turn that up to tighten the gate?

Drivers door lock sticks a bit by I think the pins getting fouled in the door as the previous owners had dogs. Easy fix I think.

The fuel filter is loud as F. Iíve read I can replace and every now and hen it stutters so Iíve read itís a swirl pot replacement or a part of it. Iíve spent about 30 hours on here reading up so as not to be one of those ďI canít be arsedĒ forum members.

If you have any ideas about the above issues Iíd love to hear them

Last edited by Torbuck; Jun 10th, 2019 at 21:19. Reason: To make sense
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Old Jun 12th, 2019, 07:15   #7
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Old Jun 12th, 2019, 09:14   #8
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Hi spray the actuator nut with lots wd40 then take the unit off the car and use mole grips on the arm to hold it and then you will find the nut turns easily. The hot side of the turbo housing cracks on these models where the flap seals in the housing from the actuator causing gas escape as its not sealing properly.

Door lock same again spray lock mechanism with wd40 and also wd40 that usually fixes it.

Car stuttering normally ignition or fuel related.
Can you read any engine fault codes with diagnostic equipment not all faults like burned valves put the light on the dash.

1st check condition of plugs especially the plug closest to the timing belt if its wet its normally a burned valve this is normally the one that goes also check condition of coil packs.
Change fuel filter.
Does it stutter when being run flat out or up hills or when tanks low on fuel this would point to the fuel pump. Fuel pumps on these cars have quite a bit of noise anyway there not quiet.
Also are you running the car on 98ron as this will effect the running not correct octane.
Check all above there's still more to check but this is just the basics and general car servicing.
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