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Multiple electrical issues

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Old Feb 18th, 2019, 10:38   #1
gagashagy
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Default Multiple electrical issues

Hello,

Copying this post to correct forum.

About a year ago I bought a V70 D5, 2002. Since then, multiple problems have surfaced and finally I'm looking out for help, so by listing all of them with short description, I am hoping that someone will be able to suggest - could it be single source? Or maybe group these in some way?
- Right side mirror - regulates itself until furthest it can go and sort of "clicks" over trying to continue. This happens also when engine is off.
- Instrument panel - sometimes does not work (wont light up with key turn). It remains completely dark, no gauges moving. After a while or on next startup - starts to work again, but this always results with two things - Air Bag error light comes on and stays on until removed by service and error 025 appears in info screen.
- Central lock - sometimes back doors don't lock. sometimes they don't unlock. Sometimes all the doors stay locked even though turn signal lights blink. Also if I locked all the doors from inside and then got out, - trying to lock the car with remote, leaves the drivers door unlocked. (at these times, I can hear the solanoids working)
- Tailgate lock - at first it worked fine. then it started to fail but only sometimes. now it only locks, but never unlocks. Changed solanoid - it does exactly the same - locks but does not unlock.
- Fuel tank lid - does not lock at all.
- Cruise control - when turned on, indicator "Cruise" appears on dash, but actual cruise cannot be turned on. pressing button "+" or "-" a bunch of times sometimes help. I've noticed that above 90km/h it works far more often, than on 55 km/h.
- Right front window - Auto lowering worked, but auto rising did not. Then one day, it just started to work both ways.
- Fuel level gauge - displays incorrect amount. When empty tank light comes on, there is nothing left at all.
- Driver seat - does not heat - this is most likely broken heater element but decided that it's still worth mentioning.

Could these issues be caused by some module failure? Maybe multiple?
At this point, I'm starting to think that maybe this car was retrieved from bottom of a lake or something.

In previous forum I was pointed towards DIM and REM. Could the cruise be related with DIM?

What about central lock including tailgate and fuel tank lid, - are those managed by single source (relay, module)?

Best regards,
gagashagy
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Old Feb 18th, 2019, 11:01   #2
MarvinMitt
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- Right side mirror - Mine does that too
- Instrument panel - The solder used on these PCBs plus heat from the lightning bulbs cracks the joints so needs a solder reflow. Have it done by someone who does these DIMs for a living or it could be problematic to fix later on.
- Tailgate lock - measure the voltage to servo, inspect, clean and oil the latch?
- Fuel tank lid - It has an option to lock with a delay so might want to check 10 minutes after locking. Can be changed in VIDA.
- Cruise control - cruise control doesn't work under speeds of 60 km/h for safety reasons
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Old Feb 18th, 2019, 11:40   #3
gagashagy
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@MarvinMitt
Instrument panel I could fix myself if that really is just a matter of re-flowing solder.
Tailgate lock - Unfortunately the locking mechanism and solenoid are not faulty. I got a new motor and it did the exact same thing.
Fuel tank lid - I know of this feature, but it's not my case. It remains open even after long periods of time.
Cruise control - This also won't be the case which you mentioned, as when it sometimes does work, I have had it working with 35 km/h. It's not that it does not work, - it just works very irregular. With continues pressing of '+' or '-' it will likely start to work at one point.
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Old Feb 18th, 2019, 11:46   #4
gagashagy
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Additional issue which I forgot to mention in original post - rear window wiper. I was fairly confident, that I have the same issue as countless others - the mechanism got jammed which then burnt the motor. But one day sometime ago, I was going on fairly rough road and the wiper made 2 or 3 passes. Then this happened twice more, - every time when shaking the car. So all these issues which tend to be inconsistent - maybe these could be bad relays? Upon receiving a bump, they close.
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Old Feb 18th, 2019, 12:10   #5
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I think most of these are not related. Perhaps a higher mileage car? These are the little annoying things that need addressed as they show up

For the window https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=69TAUY4ZkcQ
For the fuel door just replace the actuator with used one (breakers) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P2uquZOlw5c

The side mirror has been replaced and it's loosing it's memory
Tailgate usually wire harness gets worn where it passes to the lid (google up)
Fuel level gauge is inaccurate on these vehicles, not an easy fix https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-egNDgTdUYE to get it out https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=98VZGlG8lUY
The cruise control could be the brake position switch on the brake booster https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PTeH-H5VAYA
Instrument panel - ask on this forum for member Spotuzik (?)
Heated seat look at the fuse, otherwise not easy to replace
Also perhaps have the alternator/battery measured while there
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Old Feb 18th, 2019, 12:30   #6
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@oragex

"The side mirror has been replaced and it's loosing it's memory"
- I't was not doing that at the beginning and was not changed by me. Strange part is that it continues this also when the ignition is off.

"Tailgate usually wire harness gets worn where it passes to the lid (google up)"
- I checked the wiring and despite the age of this car, everything looked in good condition. Also, the actuator only fails to unlock. Locking works fine.

"The cruise control could be the brake position switch on the brake booster https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PTeH-H5VAYA"
- This issue is also very inconsistent. Sometimes it works without an issue. Could the o ring have such varying results? And also speed dependent?
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Old Feb 18th, 2019, 13:56   #7
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The trunk lock, it could also be the lock unit itself, can be replaced pretty easily with a used one. The brake pedal position sensor is a potentiometer rod that moves and may wear at the contacts, again used can do the trick (there is a rubber o-ring to the sensor, but not likely to fail, the sensor is mechanical, not vacuum related, it touches the brake booster diaphragm)
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