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S40 / V40 '96-'04 General Forum for the Volvo S40 and V40 (Classic) Series from 1995-2004. |
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V40 2001 1.8 auto sluggishViews : 825 Replies : 16Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Jan 9th, 2019, 21:53 | #1 |
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V40 2001 1.8 auto sluggish
Hi
My 2001 v40 1.8 auto is a sluggish performer. It's not the GDI. Engine cover stamped Volvo not GDI. It's driveable and usable. There are no OBD codes and no engine management warnings. No smoke, starts on the button. Sits at 80mph fine. Auto box changes fine. Service history shows VVT pulley recently replaced. Oil and coolant looks fine. It's just a slow old hector pulling away, slightly worse when cold. Pulls better after 2500rpm. Temperature gauge sits a bit low, and heater output is low. Not checked resistor jobby yet, as thinking I've got a slightly open rad stat. Hose to rad gets warm after a minute or two even when engine remains stone cold. So think stat is always part open. Any thoughts on my sluggish performance? |
Jan 9th, 2019, 23:11 | #2 |
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Maybe too rich because engine not reaching correct temperature...
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Jan 10th, 2019, 06:32 | #3 |
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Jan 10th, 2019, 13:03 | #4 |
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Thermostats have arrived - will fit when I get the chance and go from there.
I've actually got 2 parts to choose from. Circoli 209440040, which opens at 90-92 degrees or Circoli 209660140, which opens at 87-90 degrees Any thoughts on which to opt for? They were so cheap I bought both to avoid bother. |
Jan 14th, 2019, 12:42 | #5 |
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New thermostat fitted today. Car now comes nicely up to temperature. Heater blowing nice and hot. Opted for the 90-92 stat.
Temperature gauge showing rock-steady whether sat idling, driving slow, fast or being hammered. When pushing it hard, Auto box held onto a couple of gears until 6,000rpm. Not seen that before, it's normally changed earlier. Will give it a few Italian tune ups, followed by a can of BG44K. Then I'll report back. |
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Jan 19th, 2019, 20:03 | #6 |
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Hi, car runs much better now when warm.
However, still feels a bit flat to me. So one suggested I might need to change the fuel filter. Is that likely? Not used the fuel treatment yet. Thx |
Jan 21st, 2019, 18:16 | #7 |
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A fuel filter change is never a bad idea, even if it doesn't make any difference at least you'll know it's done, the one on both my se and also the t4 looked like they'd been submerged at the bottom of a well.
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Jan 21st, 2019, 19:23 | #8 |
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To me it feels like it's the auto transmission limiting the engine from revving and pulling.
It feels almost like the brakes are on. Last edited by portal; Jan 21st, 2019 at 20:50. |
Jan 21st, 2019, 20:49 | #9 |
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And this morning, it was hard to start. It was missing, popping and clunking and a real sod to start. First time ever for that. Normally starts within a second.
Then it threw a p0355 crank sensor code. It ran, and the misfiring went away as things warmed up. I reset the eml, and its run fine since. |
Jan 24th, 2019, 18:45 | #10 |
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Anyone else think I should change the fuel filter?
I've not run the fuel cleaner through yet. Maybe that's first step? Is there anything simple I can check on the auto gearbox to diagnose any obvious problems that would limit pull away acceleration, especially when cold? Back in the engine, should I be looking at ICV and MAF, or camshaft alignment. I'm bamboozled on where to start. This thing is only worth a few hundred quid, so I'm not going to be throwing garage labour at it. I'm handy enough with a socket set, but I'm not going to be stripping down the head, PCV or other such major surgery. Ancillaries etc I can take apart, diagnose etc. Anyone got any advice? thanks |
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