Engine: D5: Non starting v70

[24sheva]

Hi All

I bought a 2001 V70 D5 manual that I’ve done 35k in and has covered 190k, love this car and have come across a bit of a problem that I’m hoping someone can shed a bit of light on? I left work one day at lunch to pick something up and about 5 mile later the car cut out (only for a split second and everything was back on) and continued back to work with no problem, I went to leave work later in the day and made 1/4 mile and it cut out again but this time didn’t restart. I towed it back and plugged a reader into it (Delphi system) had no fault codes to speak of AC pressure down,clutch position sensor, I did a couple of live readings and there was 6500 hpa fuel pressure when the ignition is first turned on and 200-300,000 when you start cranking so looks like good fuel pressure. I did find find on live readings that it’s not registering any rpm when cranking and when you press the throttle it stays on 0% not sure if it’s related at all? If it were a crank sensor surely it would throw up a code or will in need the proper Volvo software for this?

I do work with cars but mainly things with points and condenser so these electrical problems are way above my head.

Thanks in advance

[jim jordan]

my v70 d5 manual used to cut out randomly started off as a split second cut out and go then it got worse i was told check fuse box under neath the fuse box there is a main feed wire red that just plugs in (spade connector type of thing) it was burnt where it connects,bought a new fuse box off ebay no problem since may be worth a look

[24sheva]

Hi Jim
Thanks for that I actually had the same problem when I got the car and fitted another fusebox then. I did check the main feed wire and also tried my old fuse box as it always started on that but still no luck. Sorry forgot to mention that in original post

Cheers



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[pierremcalpine]

have you checked that all cables to/from battery are good and tight? it does not take much.

Crank sensor would throw a code but would not result in a CEL. I don't think a faulty crank sensor would cause car to stop like that - it really does sound electrical related. I say this because I had a faulty crank sensor for a long time and didn't even know it until the dealership read all my codes.

[jim jordan]

engine earth strap ?

[24sheva]

Hi
Thanks for both suggestions

1. I did fit a new battery about 2 months again and cleaned the terminals when fitting but will trace the cables all the way to the front thank you

2. I have checked the earth cable removed run the connections through a wire wheel and refitted also had a jump lead from engine to ground just to be sure

Thanks again for the suggestions I’ll hopefully find the issue soon

[jim jordan]

after reading your post again,think i would try new crank sensor

[24sheva]

Hi all

Little update I hooked up my computer again and managed to get into the immobiliser and it came up the following

Communication to engine manage unit Yes
Start status Yes
Immobiliser code not recieved. Yes
Code stored No
Key Id. Unidentified
Master key. Reserve


Does this mean my key has lost its signal? Having never been involved in immobiliser/alarm systems is it reasonable to think that this could cause my problem and would this cut the signal to the crank sensor

I only got one key with the car so can’t try the spare


Thanks again

[jim jordan]

is your key the type that flips out and when you try the rest of key is hanging down,if so try with the key the other way round so it stays upright have seen that the key is hanging down and too far away from key code pickup ring around ignition so wont start worth a shot

[24sheva]

Hi Jim

My key is just a the standard straight key with a square moulded plastic peice on the end that I guess holds the chip. Hope the description is clear enough but to confirm it not the folding type and I have tried the key both ways

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