Volvo Community Forum. The Forums of the Volvo Owners Club

Forum Rules Volvo Owners Club About VOC Volvo Gallery Links Volvo History Volvo Press
Go Back   Volvo Owners Club Forum > "Technical Topics" > S80 '06> / V70 '07> / XC70 '07> General > S80 S2/V70/XC70 S3 Articles
Register Members CarsBlogs Help Calendar Mark Forums Read

Notices

Information
  • VOC Members: There is no login facility using your VOC membership number or the details from page 3 of the club magazine. You need to register in the normal way
  • AOL Customers: Make sure you check the 'Remember me' check box otherwise the AOL system may log you out during the session. This is a known issue with AOL.
  • AOL, Yahoo and Plus.net users. Forum owners such as us are finding that AOL, Yahoo and Plus.net are blocking a lot of email generated from forums. This may mean your registration activation and other emails will not get to you, or they may appear in your spam mailbox

Thread Informations

XC70 (Gen3) Oil Change Procedure

Views : 7741

Replies : 1

Users Viewing This Thread :  

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old Nov 4th, 2011, 14:02   #1
MartinK
Senior Member
 

Last Online: Nov 15th, 2017 16:07
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Edinburgh & Aviemore
Default XC70 (Gen3) Oil Change Procedure

I have just finished another oil change on my 2009 XC70 D5, and thought I would share the procedure in case it helps anyone here:

Tools you need:
1. T30 Torx for the sump splash plate
2. 36mm socket for oil filter housing
3. 17mm socket for sump drain plug
4. new filter (volvo part # 8692305 comes with new sealing o-ring),
5. 6 litres of oil (I used Mobil 1), check oil recommendations for your country
6. Torque wrench would help.
7. Container to catch old oil - at least 6 litres!
8. 40 minutes spare
9. 2 bricks (see below)

Procedure

Prepare the vehicle as follows:

Warm the car with a short drive (warm oil drains better).

Ground clearance is a bit tight to get under (my car is an XC70 which is a bit higher anyway, and I'm quite slim!). My drive is on a slight slope, so I pointed the car downhill, popped a couple of bricks under the front wheels, and drove the car onto them. The car was then level, and the front raised by 4 inches giving me just enough room to get under and work.

Then get to work:
The sump splash plate is held on by 8 x T30 Torx fasteners into nylon captives, easy to undo.
Off with the sump plug (large drain tray), 17mm socket.

Make sure you have removed the crush washer with the sump plug, and leave to drain. BE READY - the oil comes out fast when the sump plug is removed...and it should be warm/hot...

While oil is draining, use a flattish 36mm socket to crack open the oil filter head (front of engine as per photo):


Once you have removed the filter, it should come off and look like this:

Note the old filter is still in the housing. You can see the part number on the new filter, also that mine came with a new rubber “O” ring for the filter cover, and also a new sump plug washer (worth checking when you buy the filter that you also get the sump plug crush washer). You can also see the 36mm socket – it’s unlikely this will be in a “normal” socket set.


The old filter is a fairly tight fit into it’s domed cover, but once removed it looks like this:

Give it all a good clean, swap the “O” rings for the new one (a smear of grease on the O ring will help it re-seat into it’s housing on reassembly). The filter is a push-fit into the housing (you will feel it “click” home onto it’s seat). Now replace the filter. You may find it easier to tighten (25Nm) the oil filter housing by removing the engine cover (which is a push-fit) and using a long extension bar (see pic):


Re-insert sump plug with new washer, I tightened to 25-30Nm.

You’re now ready to re-fill with new oil.

When you Refill the oil, I suggest you fill with 5 litres initially, and then check the dipstick. Mine was just above the “Min” line on the dipstick with 5 litres. Then fill until it’s at least halfway up the dipstick - probably another half litre.

Start the car, make sure the oil light goes out quickly. Let the car idle for 1 min, then switch off, leave for 5 mins, and then check the dipstick to makle sure it’s at least halfway between the min and max lines. Don’t overfill.

Replace the splash plate under engine - no need to overtighten the Torx T30 fastners as they drive into nylon inserts.

Test drive, tidy up.

I would re-check the oil lever as soon as the car has had a good run, and it’s parked on level ground.

Link to original thread

Last edited by cumbrianmale; Apr 16th, 2012 at 20:48.
MartinK is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following 10 Users Say Thank You to MartinK For This Useful Post:
Old Jul 7th, 2012, 14:44   #2
Nick44
Ex 850/V70 Register Keepe
 

Last Online: Nov 21st, 2017 17:42
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Eltham, London
Default

Thanks MartinK, good article.

Just a quick note, don't forget the dreaded oil sump overfilling recall, and check the revised dipstick sticker for correct oil fill level on affected cars.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg new oil level sticker.jpg (143.1 KB, 29 views)
__________________
66,145,264 GLE,265 GLE (2 off),765 GLE,740 GL Estate, G 760 GLE Estate, N 960 CDi, W 940 SE,'51 V70 T,'56 V70 T5. '57 G3 V70 D5 '10 V70 T6 AWD Polestar (Bye Bye), Wife's '03 S80 SE I like Volvos.
Nick44 is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to Nick44 For This Useful Post:
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 04:35.


Powered by vBulletin
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.