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Starter Motor

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Old Aug 21st, 2017, 23:24   #11
srs4164
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Harvey1963,

I've got a '72 164E. Had the same thing happen to me. Ended up that the contact on the ignition switch where the power lead attaches had become so carbonized that the connection was blocked. If you remove that plastic surround that goes around the ignition switch, you'll be able to inspect these connections. The one giving me a problem was obvious, as it was basically all black! A little cleaning took care of the problem. Definitely worth seeing if this might be the cause of your problem.
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Old Aug 22nd, 2017, 13:34   #12
Derek UK
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Not original but a popular conversion is to use the smaller, lighter starter from the 740/940. If you have one of these don't use the hammer trick as the field coils are bonded to the case. This is one of the reasons they are smaller. Hammering can dislodge these with fatal results. The older large starters have the coils bolted on so more secure. Hammering more of a last resort, get you home trick, and still not advised. The late 164 might have the same type of ignition switch as the 240 and these have the contacts in a round unit that bolts on the back of the barrel. These can go bad in a similar way to the last post. Can take a few tries to light up the starter now and then. Unpredictable how long it takes before total failure.
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Old Aug 22nd, 2017, 19:33   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Derek UK View Post
Not original but a popular conversion is to use the smaller, lighter starter from the 740/940. If you have one of these don't use the hammer trick as the field coils are bonded to the case. This is one of the reasons they are smaller. Hammering can dislodge these with fatal results. The older large starters have the coils bolted on so more secure. Hammering more of a last resort, get you home trick, and still not advised. The late 164 might have the same type of ignition switch as the 240 and these have the contacts in a round unit that bolts on the back of the barrel. These can go bad in a similar way to the last post. Can take a few tries to light up the starter now and then. Unpredictable how long it takes before total failure.
I've always been a fan of the older starter , It is so reliable and can be given another 20 years with just a brush change . The solenoid earths out through the brushes so that is why sometimes it will not even click when the brushes are marginal . . And a tap with a hammer will do harm at all , we are not whacking it with a sledge hammer here, just a tap to dislodge the brushes a bit .

The later starter sounds horrible , it is an overgrown permanent magnet wiper motor which does high rpm so has to geared down with an epicyclic gear train which is plastic and metal so makes nasty noises as it wears ..
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Old Aug 23rd, 2017, 13:09   #14
Derek UK
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Your dislike of the permag starter is noted here and in several previous posts. Your criticism is probably valid but thousands of later Volvo owners are living with it pretty happily. You might have been unlucky. I agree that the big 240 starter is a tough old bird and a clean out and new brushes should allow them to outlive the car.
When the permag starter is used on the B18/20 and I assume the B30, it does give a boost to the starting revs. The standard ones can be a bit sluggish in the winter especially when ambient temps drop the battery voltage a bit. I suspect that of the few that have converted, there aren't many who have gone back to the old type.
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