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Suspension noise

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Old Jul 26th, 2020, 21:14   #21
360beast
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I'd see if you can measure the diameter of the hole if possible and see if you can find a brake pin to suit off the shelf and if not then get a machine shop to copy the original one in the new diameter.
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Old Jul 26th, 2020, 22:20   #22
Ian21401
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Jack,
Is it the “guide pin” which is a loose fit in the bore through the caliper bracket?
If so then it sounds like rather an unusual fault to me. My car has done 230,000 miles and the “guide pins” are still a nice snug sliding fit in the bracket. I do remove them and give them and the small rubber dust covers a smear of silicone grease when I give the brake callipers and pads their annual clean and lubricate. Could you source a replacement caliper bracket from somewhere. I don’t suppose that it needs to be a new one, just one where the the bore is good.
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Old Jul 26th, 2020, 22:34   #23
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It's a strange one, something in the back of my mind says there's a sleeve for the pin to slide through and that might have worn or fallen out - if you get a bush/sleeve made up to replace it you should be ok.
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Old Jul 26th, 2020, 22:39   #24
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There's a nasty machinists hack for when they've bored something out a bit too far, and that is to centre punch along the ID of the inside of the bore. This creates bumps that then reduce the ID of the bore along the circumference of the punch mark.

My recommendation would be just a new caliper carrier, just ensure you have a Lucas/Girling set up or the other kind

Lucas/Girling: https://www.skandix.de/en/spare-part...rling/1010859/
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Old Jul 26th, 2020, 23:05   #25
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I can't find the exact one i'm looking for but something like this fitted in the carrier by drilling and tapping the carrier then fit it with Loctite Threadlock, drill the internal thread out to take the guide pin and jobs a goo'un!

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M4-M5-M6-...S/174192099035

Sorry, forgot the link earlier!
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Old Jul 26th, 2020, 23:17   #26
capt jack
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Yes, it is very odd. My first thought was that the slide pin was worn, which is why I swapped them around, to see if the problem followed the pin. But it doesn't, so it must be that the bore is a fraction too big. Shame, because new pins are easy to source.

Packing it with brake grease is a temporary measure, but it would be good to find a permanent solution. A new carrier would do it - if I can source one, and if I can get the old one off!

I wondered about some sort of sleeve, but it would have to be very thin - we are talking at a guess at the very most 1mm of play. And if course it'll get pretty warm, which further limits options. Plus I don't want to limit the ability of the slider to slide! The pins themselves aren't perfectly round, but have longitudinal flats in a couple of places. I'd hazard a guess that these are there to accommodate the grease.

And I do wonder how much it actually matters - is a millimetre of play in a calliper of any real significance? Intuitively it feels as though brake callipers shouldn't really be loose enough to rattle! And I wouldn't mind betting that it'll get worse as the pads wear down. The pads themselves are about 50% worn now.

It's an interesting one. I'd believe that the more usual way for these pins to fail is to rust and seize up tight rather than be too slack!

No doubt it'll be resolved in time - it's a part of the fun of running an older car!

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Old Jul 27th, 2020, 10:23   #27
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I would not bother trying to “repair” the existing bracket until or unless a replacement was absolutely unobtainable. The bracket should not be too difficult to remove. Releasing fluid and six point flat drive sockets and a heavy hammer to start should do it if they are particularly obstinate. Tightening torque is 100 Nm I believe. Haynes recommends new bolts but I’ve only ever used thread lock on the old ones. I’ve had my calliper brackets off in the past to remove the brake discs for renewal of the brake back plates and renew the FOS ABS sensor. One of our “breaker” members may be able to assist with a used replacement.
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Old Jul 27th, 2020, 14:13   #28
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Yes, I reckon trying to "repair" the current one is just going to end up as a bodge, and really, brakes are absolutely the one thing that I'd never want to bodge!

I've seen new carriers on various sites, and there are second-hand ones about.

As for undoing the old, Yes, I'm sure that with a bit of WD40 and some perseverance these will come off. I'd definitely want to fit new bolts so even if I end up cutting the old ones off it's no big deal.

Thanks to all for the comments and input. Once again, this demonstrates just how good a forum this is!

Cheers

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Old Jul 27th, 2020, 14:34   #29
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Default New Bolts.

Probably available from your main dealer. May as well buy four so you have two for the other side.
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Old Jul 27th, 2020, 17:48   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by capt jack View Post
Yes, I reckon trying to "repair" the current one is just going to end up as a bodge, and really, brakes are absolutely the one thing that I'd never want to bodge!

I've seen new carriers on various sites, and there are second-hand ones about.

As for undoing the old, Yes, I'm sure that with a bit of WD40 and some perseverance these will come off. I'd definitely want to fit new bolts so even if I end up cutting the old ones off it's no big deal.

Thanks to all for the comments and input. Once again, this demonstrates just how good a forum this is!

Cheers

Jack
Only reason the caliper carrier bolts need renewing is because when new, they are "patch bolts" - that is they come with an inert coating of thread sealant.
It is activated by tightening the bolt.

Simply clean the old bolts up with a rotary wire brush in a dril then use some high strength Loctite such as 243 on the threads.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Loctite-2...d/174215966530

I am a little confused, are we talking about the guide pins ofr the brake pads or the caliper guide pins here?
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