945 charge / earth / warning light prob

[Laird Scooby]

Just double-checked the info i gave earlier Rick, fuse 11/41 is indeed the one on the back of the cluster, A2 is the connector number and it's one of Volvos little foibles to confuse us mere mortals. Generally the "11" part refers to the fusebox but in this case, simply denotes it's a fuse, 41 is the number of the fuse.

On the drawing it's within the "boundaries" of the cluster so it gives a clue, albeit not a brilliant one!

Hoping for some good news on this later!

[bluebrickrick]

'Fuse' easily found from Daves photo and was intact, as were the diodes, all soldered joints cleaned de soldered and re soldered, no apparent track damage or breakages visible, ran over the 'new donor' cluster with a loupe, brush and soldering iron giving the same results, head scratching now getting manic.

Replaced the ignition switch while there's a big 'ole in the dash and I've a few more wire continuity checks to do before putting either cluster in to try, ran out of time, light, painkillers and enthusiasm

I'm still wondering if there is any link with the sporadic failure of solenoid to operate on starting.

In the words of the Great Viv Stanshall 'To be Continued'

Rick

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by bluebrickrick

I'm still wondering if there is any link with the sporadic failure of solenoid to operate on starting.

In the words of the Great Viv Stanshall 'To be Continued'

Rick

I think until you try it with the new switch you won't know for sure Rick but as you've refurbished at least one instrument clustr, you should have one good one at least.

Will drop you a PM soon about pain relief


*** EDIT *** For some stupid reason, the forum won't let me send PMs yet again! To give your pain relief a boost, have a strong coffee (NOT decaff), it'll help if you're on what i think you're on!

[bluebrickrick]

Thanks Dave, will see what re installation of one, other or both clusters does - I do like to see evidence of something adrift and despite using my usb microscope didn't see any dry joint or cracked track signs.

You can't pm until you've sent 30 messages IIRC, you may be too many messages 'in credit'

Zamadol, no it doesn't in my case plus coffee upsets my guts but greatly appreciate the pointer. 50 YO Horse liniment works well but there is no prescribable modern equivalent to Methyl Salicilate and I'm running out

Rick and an early night for once

[Laird Scooby]

Sometimes even with magnification they're not obvious Rick, if you've serviced the joints, there's a fair chance they're all ok so give it a try.

Had the trouble with the PMs on sunday as well, it'll clear. Eventually! That said if you're on synthetic pain relief from the vet, it may not help.

As for Methyl Salicilate, you don't need a prescription, it's known as Deep Heat :

https://www.knowyourotcs.org/ingredi...yl-salicylate/

Fingers crossed for tomorrow!

[bluebrickrick]

Well, interesting day, installed the original cluster and despite soldering, tightening etc no apparent change, so installed the similarly treated donor cluster with the same lack of result, went back to the drawing and tried to meter out some connections, decided just in case there was an issue with the d+ lead I ran a flying lead with the idea of putting in an illuminated rocker switch in one of the vacant slots but even with this touching on the C16 header it had no effect so hooked up a dash operated shunt, would not charge, nor would it with the same link that got me home which excluded the cluster as being the problem

Went back to the RAC chap and recalled his Thor hammer attack on the alternator before charge was established by jump lead so got the spare alternator out, a Volvo jobbie but working when stored, swapped over, reconnected as original and lo and behold I got the usual lights on the dash and charging when I started up, ended up 10 minutes late for a docs appt but I didn't think 25 mins for swapping alternators too bad got there and back with no problem and once I had replaced the panel lights in the docs car park had the pleasure of seeing both speedo and odo working

Needed tomorrow for shopping run and must make a last trip to the donor car Friday, thereafter will swap back to the original cluster to see what it now does but it appears there may have been both a dry joint problem and an alternator fault which I'll look into later.

Thanks fellow Volvonians, especially Dave, for all the assistance and moral support and fingers crossed this is a solid fix, then I can start thinking about sorting my blowing exhaust.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by bluebrickrick

Well, interesting day, installed the original cluster and despite soldering, tightening etc no apparent change, so installed the similarly treated donor cluster with the same lack of result, went back to the drawing and tried to meter out some connections, decided just in case there was an issue with the d+ lead I ran a flying lead with the idea of putting in an illuminated rocker switch in one of the vacant slots but even with this touching on the C16 header it had no effect so hooked up a dash operated shunt, would not charge, nor would it with the same link that got me home which excluded the cluster as being the problem

Went back to the RAC chap and recalled his Thor hammer attack on the alternator before charge was established by jump lead so got the spare alternator out, a Volvo jobbie but working when stored, swapped over, reconnected as original and lo and behold I got the usual lights on the dash and charging when I started up, ended up 10 minutes late for a docs appt but I didn't think 25 mins for swapping alternators too bad got there and back with no problem and once I had replaced the panel lights in the docs car park had the pleasure of seeing both speedo and odo working

Needed tomorrow for shopping run and must make a last trip to the donor car Friday, thereafter will swap back to the original cluster to see what it now does but it appears there may have been both a dry joint problem and an alternator fault which I'll look into later.

Thanks fellow Volvonians, especially Dave, for all the assistance and moral support and fingers crossed this is a solid fix, then I can start thinking about sorting my blowing exhaust.

Glad you got it sorted Rick!

If i was a gambling man, i'd lay bets as soon as you remove the two screws securing the voltage regulator to the back of the old alternator and the regulator/brush pack pops out, you'll see the problem.

As for the cluster, i think that was another part of a different problem but may have contributed to the problem.

Lastly, i wonder if the battery was going that little bit flat and wouldn't kick the starter over?

On a slightly different subject, now it's running again, pull fuse #1 from the fusebox for a few minutes and refit before you next start the engine. You'll be surprised - and pleased!

[bluebrickrick]

While I'll not have time to swap clusters tomorrow I certainly intend to investigate the alternator entrails and will advise findings, it all builds a knowledgebase for our successors.

While the battery may have been a bit low it has not failed to start when the solenoid pulls in, it's failure to pull in is not down to voltage as my flying lead had resulted in an instant start on the odd times it has not responded to the key, hopefully time may show that was a switch problem.

You now have me intrigued as to what pulling F1 might do Dave, and I was looking forward to a night not peering at Greenbook pages on the laptop.

BTW a tip I don't think I've passed on, I keep a bit of ice lolly stick on a thread tied to the throttle bowden, if I need some revs to boost the battery or if jump-starting someone I insert this between the stop lugs on the cable barrel and it acts as a hand throttle, a blip on the pedal and it drops out of the way - Simples

Rick, string & lolly stick engineering

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by bluebrickrick

While I'll not have time to swap clusters tomorrow I certainly intend to investigate the alternator entrails and will advise findings, it all builds a knowledgebase for our successors.

While the battery may have been a bit low it has not failed to start when the solenoid pulls in, it's failure to pull in is not down to voltage as my flying lead had resulted in an instant start on the odd times it has not responded to the key, hopefully time may show that was a switch problem.

You now have me intrigued as to what pulling F1 might do Dave, and I was looking forward to a night not peering at Greenbook pages on the laptop.

BTW a tip I don't think I've passed on, I keep a bit of ice lolly stick on a thread tied to the throttle bowden, if I need some revs to boost the battery or if jump-starting someone I insert this between the stop lugs on the cable barrel and it acts as a hand throttle, a blip on the pedal and it drops out of the way - Simples

Rick, string & lolly stick engineering

Pulling fuse #1 disconnects the memory feed to the LH-Jetronic ECU Rick - it erases the fault codes stored (and there will be, even if the EML hasn't been on) and resets the ECU fuel trims etc to factory.

As it was running with reduced battery voltage, there's a very high chance it went into Limp Mode without lighting the EML (or Lambda light as some call it which should also come on with the ignition) so you will regain a lot of the performance and economy you should have.

I've been staring at Green Book and other wiring diagrams trying to sort an ABS problem i gained due to a back axle change so i get your feeling about not wanting to stare at a screen with diagrams on!

[bluebrickrick]

That is a nice result for just pulling a fuse

the donor has an ABS block which I hadn't intended to remove but can do (assuming it and the trailer are still there!) just in case (and assuming compatible) or are you looking at the speedo sensor which I think I've read co feeds the ABS as there aren't the cogged sensor rings like the front hubs have, I feel your pain brother.

BTW Donor cluster is 1991, the one in it was 1990, noticed a minor difference, the 91 has three diodes behind the tacho, the other had pads for 3 but only the rh two installed - thankyou Swedish Cheff instructing Kamikaze circuit maker