PCV changed, still blowing

[nickar]

I just used the excellent guide by phil_r on here to help change my entire PCV system (box and pipework). The engine is running again but under normal idle, it blows a lot from the crankcase. I put a glove on there and it was like strapping it to the end of a hand dryer. I have not done the glove test above idle revs. There is still a lot of excess smoke too which I think is over fuelling (hopefully). I thought of dropping the oil sump and cleaning that out but there's a massive engine support bracket in the way. Any ideas on what I should be doing next please? I'm running out of ideas! Thank you.

[upv5]

You have not said how many miles on the engine but one cause is worn piston rings and/or bores. A compression test may indicate if it is only only one or all cylinders but the valves and seats must be in good nick to get an accurate reading. A trick used by mechanics is to compression test all 4 then put a little oil down the plug holes and test again. The oil helps seal the piston rings and the reading increases. A large difference indicates worn rings or bores. If the exhaust smoke has a bluish colour that is oil smoke, excess fuel creates black smoke.

John

[nickar]

Originally Posted by upv5

You have not said how many miles on the engine but one cause is worn piston rings and/or bores. A compression test may indicate if it is only only one or all cylinders but the valves and seats must be in good nick to get an accurate reading. A trick used by mechanics is to compression test all 4 then put a little oil down the plug holes and test again. The oil helps seal the piston rings and the reading increases. A large difference indicates worn rings or bores. If the exhaust smoke has a bluish colour that is oil smoke, excess fuel creates black smoke.

John

Hi John. I visited an engine specialist this morning and they said it is the valve stem seals. The mileage is around 113,000. I did recently buy a compression testing kit and rare about that trick you mentioned. I will do the test and report back! Thanks.

[Baffler]

When replacing the oil trap did you check/clean out the port going from the short block down into the sump? And have you checked the crankcase vapour/gas pre-heater on the flexi rubber fresh air intake close to the turbo? If these are blocked with crud it will cause a build up of crankcase pressure.

[nickar]

Originally Posted by Baffler

When replacing the oil trap did you check/clean out the port going from the short block down into the sump? And have you checked the crankcase vapour/gas pre-heater on the flexi rubber fresh air intake close to the turbo? If these are blocked with crud it will cause a build up of crankcase pressure.

I cleaned out two holes in the block that were exposed when I removed the trap and hoses. Is that what you mean?

[pierremcalpine]

If you look up FCP Euro S60 PCV on YouTube the mechanic in the video demonstrates how to verify if the oil pan needs to be dropped or not as part of maintaining your PCV. Check it out. I may just be that there is a blockage in the pan that needs to be also cleared for all to work as intended. At this point, given that you've got it all put back together, I'd be tempted to drop the pan and clean out the vertical passage in question. I'm not super clear on the details of what passage needs to be cleared so maybe some research there before you dive into it. Dropping pan is pretty easy.

[Baffler]

Originally Posted by nickar

I cleaned out two holes in the block that were exposed when I removed the trap and hoses. Is that what you mean?

Yes, they're the ones, but you may need to do some further cleaning.

Have a read of the following threads to see what I mean:

Smokey tickover (see post #9 courtesy of MikeAlder)

Check you PCV system OR ELSE