A/C clutch bearing

[Brendan W]

Has anyone replaced the a/c clutch bearing successfully, leaving the compressor in situ or at least not disconnecting the hoses. If so what is the bearing and any tips on how to ?

[D5meister]

Hi, I did mine like this.

I got a an NDK bearing off the bay. I think it was £15

edit - - it was this.. Clutch Bearing - NSK 35x55x20
300938758309

seller was mandles1g



I made two pullers I took the alternator out and undid the stearing pump.

I undud the ocmpressor and arranged it at about 45 degree, pulley up.

I used some thick cable ties to hold it there.


Take off the central pulley bolt, dont lose the shims , these are small and there can be any number of them. these set the clutch gap ~20thou works.

I took the clutch off with a small homemade puller/pusher, 3 machine screws UNF or BA not vanilla M series metric.

I made a plate with 3 holes, the 3 screws go thru the plate into the threaded holes in the clutch plate. This retains the plate to the clutch. The puller pusher has a central bolt and pin. You needed to hold a nut with a ring spanner and wind the bolt in and it pushes the clutch off - quite easy actually...

Then you need to remove the pulley nice and square. This will allow the inner of the bearing to slide off the compressor case and wont buckle the pulley.

This was the second puller, I did a simple T bar affair which spans the pulley, A claw on each end hooks around the pulley.

A central hole with bolt, you wind in again holding a nut on the bolt with a ringy

I cant remember how I did the bearing swap, but it was in my garage on a bench, so took my time and did a clean pro job. I may have used the new one to press the old one out. I cant recall it... I may have sat the pulley on open vice jaws and tapped the old on out?

- Edit, I fitted the new bearing using the old as a drift. I put small dots of super glue on the metal bearing edges and fixed the old one to it.

I used a large vice to squeeze the new one in using the old one as the drift in the vice. Then tapped the old on off when fully inserted.



On the casting of the compressor I used fine emery and oil to take the scratches off and to reduce it by a thou or so.

when cleaned I applied a bit of CV joint grease to the casting.

To fit the pulley, I tapped the inner of the new bearing repeatedly left and right and tapped it on. The sound changes when its fully home onto the castting shoulder.

It was restricted access for this bit, and I used a lump hammer side on.

I only got about 1" - 2 " blows

If you want to try - I can hire you one or both of the pullers.

£20 deposit - I will give you 2 full weeks, when I get it back, you get your deposit back.

You cover the postal - you choose the service.

£10 hire fee non returnable.

Steve

[Brendan W]

Thanks a lot Steve. I'll see what my pullers are up to when I have it face up.

[D5meister]

Brendan, I dug these out of the garage after 4Hrs of rummaging..! Your welcome to arrange a hire as discussed. Steve

Clutch puller
IMG_1043.JPG



Pulley puller
IMG_1048.JPG

[Brendan W]

Replaced the bearing today with the help of Steve's elegant tools. Straightforward job and that annoying drone at 1200 rpm is gone. Tips for anyone else taking this on. Put all four compressor screws through the compressor before offering it back up to the mount bracket. The charge air hose is in the way and the top left screw in particular will be nigh on impossible to slip in otherwise. The clutch pulley is machine staked at six or eight places on the circumference but they don't appear to be doing anything as the bearing came straight out.
Unloading the tensioner with the Torx bit is a lot easier with the timing belt cover off. As the compressor is face up on reassembly you will need to think about those shims staying square and they might be stainless - the magnet had no effect.

[IronJaw]

Hi I know this is an old thread, but does anyone know if this would be suitable for my P3 D5?