Water pump gasket and seals

theoldmotorpartsman · Sep 25th, 2017, 02:15

Hello,
What is the best method to fit the redblock water pump seals: using sealant and if so which is the best, or none? What is the best way to treat or not the gasket: soak in oil overnight, sealant or oil?
One of my Volvos, a '97 2.3 Lpt 940 is prone to leaking from the area of the pump from time to time in spite the pump having been changed or refitted several times. No problems with my other cars.
Many thanks.

baggy798 · Sep 25th, 2017, 03:20

I didn't use any sealant anywhere and it's fine, no leaks touch wood! The gasket should be dry and just a bit of water was used for the seals.

http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=269892

If the block or heater pipe is corroded and pitted you might have to use sealant, in which case I would use a bit of RTV silicone gasket maker.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Red-Gasket...gAAOSwuxFYvWfM

Always use a genuine gasket and seals, aftermarket ones are garbage.

lynns hubby · Sep 25th, 2017, 07:08

As stated above, there should be no need for anything other than GOOD seals and gaskets. The secret to a good watertight seal is in setting the pump against the seal with the correct compression. If you look, the mounting holes are not round but are oval, this is to allow the pump to be positioned against the top seal with the correct amount of compression to form a good seal.
Obviously you have to keep the retaining nuts loose whilst you position the pump, I normally use a piece of wood such as a short length of broom handle in the outlet of the pump to gently "lift" the pump against the top seal. Hold it in this position and "nip a couple of nuts up. This will allow you to remove the wood and carry on to tighten all the nuts up.
I have changed several red block water pumps over the last 35 years or so and found this way always works.
The trouble with using sealants etc is that if you get a little "over enthusiastic" with the sealant it can dislodge the seal when you tighten things up. This is not to say that there is no place for sealants as we all know there is.

theoldmotorpartsman · Sep 25th, 2017, 13:12

Thanks for the advice, it is what I do save for not using genuine Volvo gasket, I think this could be the problem.It is a 75km drive to the nearest Volvo dealer, I will get genuine parts rather than fleabay ones.

Sep 25th, 2017, 02:15	#1
theoldmotorpartsman Junior Member Last Online: Feb 24th, 2024 04:20 Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Limousin region	Water pump gasket and seals Hello, What is the best method to fit the redblock water pump seals: using sealant and if so which is the best, or none? What is the best way to treat or not the gasket: soak in oil overnight, sealant or oil? One of my Volvos, a '97 2.3 Lpt 940 is prone to leaking from the area of the pump from time to time in spite the pump having been changed or refitted several times. No problems with my other cars. Many thanks.

Sep 25th, 2017, 03:20	#2
baggy798 🤍💙💗 Last Online: Today 03:42 Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Lichfield	I didn't use any sealant anywhere and it's fine, no leaks touch wood! The gasket should be dry and just a bit of water was used for the seals. http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=269892 If the block or heater pipe is corroded and pitted you might have to use sealant, in which case I would use a bit of RTV silicone gasket maker. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Red-Gasket...gAAOSwuxFYvWfM Always use a genuine gasket and seals, aftermarket ones are garbage. __________________ MY97 940 CD LPT Super Sports Edition 2 Turbo, Midnight Purple, 175,000 miles. Last edited by baggy798; Sep 25th, 2017 at 03:50.

Sep 25th, 2017, 07:08	#3
lynns hubby Master Member Last Online: Apr 5th, 2024 09:25 Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Great Yarmouth	As stated above, there should be no need for anything other than GOOD seals and gaskets. The secret to a good watertight seal is in setting the pump against the seal with the correct compression. If you look, the mounting holes are not round but are oval, this is to allow the pump to be positioned against the top seal with the correct amount of compression to form a good seal. Obviously you have to keep the retaining nuts loose whilst you position the pump, I normally use a piece of wood such as a short length of broom handle in the outlet of the pump to gently "lift" the pump against the top seal. Hold it in this position and "nip a couple of nuts up. This will allow you to remove the wood and carry on to tighten all the nuts up. I have changed several red block water pumps over the last 35 years or so and found this way always works. The trouble with using sealants etc is that if you get a little "over enthusiastic" with the sealant it can dislodge the seal when you tighten things up. This is not to say that there is no place for sealants as we all know there is.

Sep 25th, 2017, 13:12	#4
theoldmotorpartsman Junior Member Last Online: Feb 24th, 2024 04:20 Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Limousin region	Thanks for the advice, it is what I do save for not using genuine Volvo gasket, I think this could be the problem.It is a 75km drive to the nearest Volvo dealer, I will get genuine parts rather than fleabay ones.

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