Air Filter 740

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by bob12

... and guess what Skandix also 'do' the flexible tube between the exhaust manifold and the air diverter intake for my motor for Euro 7.90 (Volvo Pt no 9438274) .... so, if you buy a couple of air thermos + the tube you might well find the shipping is reasonable. Buy now be4 Brexit!!

http://www.skandix.de/en/spare-parts...00-mm/1019018/

Haven't checked a Main Dealer price but, that might be a worthwhile exercise.

Bob

Also worth checking the local independent motor factors (no, i don't mean Hellfruads, they're a chain!) for the corrugated ali tube, it's pretty much a generic part across a wide range of vehicles.

[Ian21401]

B200F engine, no AC.
Having read this thread a few times in the past, and remembering Bob’s description as to how to access the waxstat, I decided to examine mine further whilst I had the air filter box and air trunking off to clean the throttle body, IACV and PCV system.
The flap within the intake on mine is in the cold air intake position but could easily be moved across to the warm air intake position with light finger pressure, but when released it sprung back into the cold air intake position.
I put the whole assembly in the freezer for half an hour to see what happened. The flap stayed in the cold air in position.
Closer examination without dismantling anything revealed that there is a circular frame surrounding the flap, which seems to be connected to and operated by the stat and under the relevant circumstances will pull the flap into the hot air intake position. It was possible to move this device slightly so I lubricated as much of the mechanism as I could by spraying in WD40, then I put the whole assembly back in the freezer for a while. No change. Flap still in cold air intake position, so I assume that the waxstat has failed.
As I wanted to complete the engine servicing I did not follow Bob’s suggestion as to how to dismantle the air intake lest I damaged something beyond redemption. Had I had another spare unit available I may well have risked it as my OCD would like it to work.
However, as the flap is permanently in the cold air intake position and I understand that cold air in is preferable and the ambient air in my neck of the woods is rarely very cold I shall just leave it as it is.

Just as an extra, I am advised by my dealer that the Volvo airfilter ( VO1336397) is NLA but the air filter for particularly dusty environments is still available (VO9161033). It appears identical with the addition of a foam filter on it’s underside. Unfortunately it’s made in China, so I may be obtaining some other brand for next time.

[bob12]

Thanks, Ian. I wouldn't bother about a Volvo air filter. I haven't had one on the 745 since it was last serviced by Volvo in '96!

There are plenty of good filters from reputable manufacturers on the market.

I see that E/Parts have a Crosland for £3.37. I have used them in the past and they are fine. The foam on the underside came into use ages ago on many filters. I intitially treated them with some caution but, that's what you get these days.

I am still working my way through a large job lot of clearance filters of various makes that Dave put me on to for less that a tenner years ago!

Bob

[Ian21401]

Thanks Bob. I seem to remember Crosland from my dim and distant past. I still have for some filters in the garage from my Morris Marina days. Cooper and Champion. I haven’t yet found anyone who would be able to use them and I cannot bring myself to just bin them.

[Laird Scooby]

Like Bob, i'm working my way through a pile of air filters from a job lot. Still on the first after bypassing the thermostatic air intake as it was pulling oily air off the N/S exhaust manifold and throwing it straight onto the air filter!

Crosland are pretty good filters, fitted thousands of them over the years, Cooper also, not fitted many (if any) Champion filters on the grounds their plugs are useless and it put me off their other products.

Which Marinas did you have Ian? I know a few people on the Rover 800 forum that have 2.0 models and some used the same filters as some Marinas.

[bob12]

Originally Posted by Ian21401

Thanks Bob. .................... I still have for some filters in the garage from my Morris Marina days. Cooper and Champion. I haven’t yet found anyone who would be able to use them and I cannot bring myself to just bin them.

In the late 90's I inherited an M reg Marina 1.8 TC (MG B engine) 4 door saloon/black vinyl roof (!!) when my father died. Drove it home and never worked out how it ever got an MOT it was totally rusted out everywhere and patched with fibre glass and bad welding. So it just sat in the yard with a Morris Traveler in equally appalling condition until a bloke offered me a few hundred quid for the pair!!

Bob

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by bob12

In the late 90's I inherited an M reg Marina 1.8 TC (MG B engine) 4 door saloon/black vinyl roof (!!) when my father died. Drove it home and never worked out how it ever got an MOT it was totally rusted out everywhere and patched with fibre glass and bad welding. So it just sat in the yard with a Morris Traveler in equally appalling condition until a bloke offered me a few hundred quid for the pair!!

Bob

It's the B series engine i was thinking of Bob that morphed into the O series with an OHC head then the M series with a 16v DOHC head and then the T series that was a development of the M series. Likewise the L series diseasel was developed from the O series and (i believe) is still in production today as the Perkins Prima diesel.

Because the block on all those is primarily strengthened B series (BMC/BL strengthened the B series to turn it inot a diesel in the late 60s/early 70s then abandoned it until someone dropped an OHC head, carb and dizzy and created the O series petrol) the oil filter remained the same in most cases.

I think (but not sure) certain Volvos use the same filter - thinking OHV redblock mainly but i suspect the later red blocks may use the same filter as well.

As for that Marina TC and Moggy, had you kept them they would have been worth even more now and if you had restored them to better than their former glory then you'd have a small fortune now.

[bob12]

There comes a time when one looses heart and, it was lost at the time on those two motors Dave ..... unlike the 745 that still has no rust showing after nearly 33 years on the road.

Eventually, at the time, I was glad to get rid of them. Although the interior on the Marina was immaculate that may well have been all that was left sitting on the ground after another year!!

It took me ages to sweep up the residue after they were gone!! Somewhere I still have a large part of fibre glass and rust from a sill I picked up off the ground in amazment once it was gone.

Always remember popping the bonnet on the Marina and seeing the front suspension was the same as the Traveler. That was BMC progress!! It was the same on my first car a Standard 10 before they amalgamated with BMC.

Bob

[Laird Scooby]

I know what you mean about losing heart Bob, many cars i've owned in the past would be worth a fortune if i still had them and often i let them go cheaply or for scrap because of a relatively minor problem that i could have solved with internet searches except the internet didn't exist back then.

For example, Zephyr 6 Mk4 2.5 V6, immaculate except for a hole in the dash for a DIN E radio, just needed a track rod end for the MoT. Ford couldn't find one and a week after i traded it in against a Mk2 Escrot Van 1.1, i found several Mk4 Zephyrs in a scrapyard, all with new/near-new TREs on. Years later i discovered Ford USA had always had plenty in stock as they fitted all Mustangs from the first in the early 60s to the (then) present day and are probbly still in stock now. Also the US aftermarket places always had thousands available.

Had two Marinas when i was young, a 1.3 and later a 1.7 and always wanted the Ital 2.0HLS with the auto box and factory front telescopic dampers - yes they eventually updated the design to those just as the Ital was being phased out!

[Forrest]

Yes, YouTube, internet commerce and discussion boards such as this have been a real game changer when it comes to the amateur's ability to keep a classic car on the road.

Until the late 1990s folk tended to just take their local franchised garage's word on the availability of parts. Now you can seek out rare, new old stock parts from the other side of the world.

Also, cheap Chinese engineering means that specialist tools suitable for occasional hobbyist use are readily obtainable and affordable.

I think extensive rust is an allowable reason for admitting defeat. To fix it properly is a major, specialist and expensive job. It's tempting sometimes to feel the same when you've got multiple mechanical and electrical issues but they can generally be tackled methodically and once resolved you wonder why you ever thought about giving up.