Burping or bleeding coolant system

[fanvol]

thanks guys. will follow the advice given here. however my problem now seems to be that the temperature gauge when i position turn the key im possition 2 is in red overheathing. No message on the display anymore but that after living the car still for 1 and half hour. Last time i try to start the car there was a rattling noise so I switch it of.

[cheshired5]

Have you damaged the coolant temperature sensor wiring?

[fanvol]

Originally Posted by cheshired5

Have you damaged the coolant temperature sensor wiring?

How can i know? I haven't touch in any wiring as far i am aware of

[oragex]

From what I've seen, the coolant capacity on the non turbo petrol sits at about 5.8 liters. This is what I've measured, and also a Volvo tech confirmed (but again, Volvo techs can get it wrong on many occasions).

My understanding is that there's 5 liters in the block/radiator/reservoir that can be removed, plus an additional 0.8 liters inside the heater core that will stay in there (some may try to blow into the hoses to remove it but it won't work, most of it will still be trapped inside the heater core).

On the other side, the owners manual talks about some 7-8 liters, my guess is this a misprint (there was also a mistake with the power steering type so not unheard to have an error in the manual).

As someone else here, I'd warmly recommend genuine coolant concentrate (really not much more expensive that aftermarket ones) always mixed only with distilled water (see on pharmacies) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FbelwS03tX4

[cheshired5]

Do you have a workshop manual of any kind or are you just doing jobs and asking questions as you go?
Without a manual or an understanding of the area you're working on, you're going to come unstuck.

[fanvol]

the problem was the radiator hose that had a crack i have now replaced the hose. The issue now could be air pockets inside system.
I can see also coolant split over the alternator as the broken radiator hose is just above. Could that explain the overheath issue with the temperature gauge permanently on red even after the car has been parked for 3 hours?
What can I check for the temp gaunge?

[cheshired5]

Originally Posted by oragex;2430361[url

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FbelwS03tX4[/url]

I'm not sure of the point you're making in this video as water is actually better than coolant at absorbing and moving heat.
This is why you must never have too high a concentration of coolant as your engine would be in greater danger of overheating than with water on its own.

The problem with water is that it's too volatile for a cooling system because it will freeze at low temperatures, boil at high temperatures and corrode the internals of the engine and cooling system.

The job of coolant is to lower the freezing point, raise the boiling point and provide corrosion resistance.

[cheshired5]

Originally Posted by fanvol

the problem was the radiator hose that had a crack i have now replaced the hose. The issue now could be air pockets inside system.

It couldn't.
The only thing that would blow a radiator hose would be a stuck closed thermostat, an incorrectly fitted thermostat, a defective thermostat wobble pin, a physical blockage in the system, excess pressure from a faulty expansion cap, damage to the hose from contamination or cutting, etc.

Originally Posted by fanvol

I can see also coolant split over the alternator as the broken radiator hose is just above. Could that explain the overheath issue with the temperature gauge permanently on red even after the car has been parked for 3 hours?

No.

[fanvol]

Originally Posted by cheshired5

It couldn't.
The only thing that would blow a radiator hose would be a stuck closed thermostat, an incorrectly fitted thermostat, a defective thermostat wobble pin, a physical blockage in the system, excess pressure from a faulty expansion cap, damage to the hose from contamination or cutting, etc.


No.

OK. now we are getting somewhere. The rubber of the hose that was damaged to me look as it was in good condition. It seems to me that this hose was under excessive pressure and eventually failed. Why would the thermostat fail during the change of coolant ? I took from the advice that I wouldn't need to worry about trapped air in this car but I believe this may have been the cause of this issue.
Any other theory?

[cheshired5]

The advice you've had is tried tested and sound so any problem will be with the car or something you've done.
Diagnosing from distance isn't straightforward.