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850/x70 S1 Articles How to's and step by step guides on a specific repair or modification to a Volvo 850/70 car.

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N/A PCV System Replacement

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Old Jun 17th, 2010, 08:23   #1
skinnny
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Last Online: Jan 17th, 2024 17:39
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: London
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Car

1994 Volvo 850 2.0 GLT 20v Auto
Chimps

Me and a friend. The most either of us had done before was fitting spark plugs!
Tools

  • Socket set
    • Ratchet handle
    • 18" (in total) extension
    • Universal joint
    • 8, 10, 12mm sockets
  • 10, 12mm closed spanners
  • 10, 12mm closed ratchet spanners
  • Torx screw driver
  • Torch
  • Hammer!
  • Coat hanger
Notable by it's absence is a torque wrench. We didn't have one. And I wasn't willing to spend £££ on one when I didn't even know if the car would start again after our hamfisted efforts. But it did start... so maybe it's worth getting one now!

Parts

  • PCV kit
    • Oil Trap
    • Breather hose
    • PCV hose
    • PCV valve
    • Large coupling piece
    • Small coupling piece
    • Flame shield
  • Inlet manifold gasket
  • About 10" of narrow hose
  • About 10 assorted hose clips
Steps

DISCLAIMER: This is what worked for me... prob not the "correct" way to do it.
  1. Remove fuel rail
    1. Remove cover Just pops off.
    2. Unplug injector power plugs Lost a rectangular seal from one of the plugs.
    3. Unclamp fuel pipes Undo 8mm bolt at back-left of engine.
    The left-most injector fell out of the rail which caused fuel to **** out of the hole it left... no biggee... apparently
  2. Remove throttle drum/IACV assembly and vacuum tree
    1. Remove cover
    2. Detach throttle cable from drum
    3. Detach ball joint linkage
    4. Unplug IACV power
    5. Undo 4x 10mm bolts
  3. Remove manifold
    • Remove manifold bolts
      • Remove 3x 10mm top bolts
      • Loosen 4x 10mm bottom bolts No need to completely remove these as the manifold can be lifted off them.
        Bottom-left bolt is a nightmare, managed it with about 10" of extension plus universal joint.
      • Remove 12mm dip-stick bolt Used 18" extension and came at it from underneath
      • Remove 12mm bracket bolt Used 18" extension and came at it from underneath
    • Detach pipes
      • Detach PCV breather pipe from cylinder head Need to remove spark plug cover
      • Remove fat air pipe that goes from air box to throttle body
  4. Remove oil trap
    • Remove 2x 10mm boltsLoosen bracket bolt and twist bracket out of the way to get at the right-hand bolt.
Reverse the steps, replacing old stuff with new stuff as and when. Notes

  • Our biggest problems were very-difficult-to-reach bolts, but persistence and trying different approaches paid off.
  • Re-aligning the bottom manifold bracket with the hole in the manifold took 5 or 6 (stressful) attempts.
  • Didn't fit the flame shield, as advised by various sources.
  • A couple of narrow hoses connected to the vacuum tree broke while we were removing it. We couldn't find exact matches so we used a slightly larger bore hose with hose clips.
  • We had one bolt left over at the end!!! :O
  • It took us 24 man-hours, spread over 2 days \o/
  • We used the hammer to knock the new oil trap in as far as we could.
  • We used the coat hanger to retrieve the myriad bits and pieces we dropped into the engine... and to clean out the gunged up holes going into the block after we removed the oil trap.
  • You may also want to have some new injector seats handy.

Last edited by Jod T5; Jun 19th, 2010 at 15:39.
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