Wheels/Tyres: V70 Front Wheel bearing

[Martin Cox]

When I did my reluctor rings, I tried to drop the control arm from the ball joint end as you are doing but it wasn't coming apart with any reasonable amount of force I could apply.

Instead I disconnected the track rod end from the steering knuckle, the anti-roll bar linkage from the shock absorber and removed the two bolts holding the shock absorber to the steering knuckle. The drive shaft then came out of the hub without difficulty and I was able to fit a new reluctor ring. You are supposed to renew these bolts when putting it all back together again

However I don't know for certain if this would help when replacing the wheel bearing.

Martin

[ITSv40]

Originally Posted by Martin Cox

Instead I disconnected the track rod end from the steering knuckle, the anti-roll bar linkage from the shock absorber and removed the two bolts holding the shock absorber to the steering knuckle. The drive shaft then came out of the hub without difficulty and I was able to fit a new reluctor ring. You are supposed to renew these bolts when putting it all back together again

That is the way I have always done it when replacing CV boots etc. I find trying to detach the suspension arm from the hub carrier usually results in a new arm being needed.

[Luxobarge]

Huge thanks for all the comments, they're really helpful.

OK, busy day today so only an hour to spend on this. First off was to drop the control arm, as suspected, having been taken apart by myself some time ago in fact it dropped out no problem with a bit of levering down with a long bar. And no, I didn't damage the ball joint boot as I was doing it, so the arm is all good.

Just a note to others doing this, the pinch bolt that clamps the ball joint stud into the steering knuckle (the bolt I struggled with yesterday!) slides into a slot milled into the ball joint stud about half way up. Therefore the bolt has to be completely removed for the stud to drop out, if you only slacken it, it will never some out!

Also as suspected, the axle pushed out of the bearing splines no problem, just wound the puller up with a ring spanner and out it came.

Next up was to undo the four star bolts holding the bearing in. This was more of a struggle, needed the trusty breaker bar in anger for this one, but out they came eventually, though I have to admit I was sweating pretty freely by the end. They were VERY stiff pretty much all the way, not so much through rust as to the copious amounts of thread lock used when they were assembled. I know this is used for safety, but I'd call that overkill!

Next needed to tap out the actual bearing - there's a handy "chisel slot" on the side, so a hefty whack with a chisel located in that slot gave me a slight sign of movement on that side, then used my 36mm hub nut socket in the back of the bearing as a driver and another few whacks with the club hammer and out it dropped.

Similarly, a few whacks with a fine chisel on the ABS ring and that popped off too.

So at last it's all apart!

Ran out of time, but next job will be to clean all the crud and rust off the steering knuckle and CV joint etc. probably most of it with a wire-brush-on-a-drill, and start re-assembly. First off will be the ABS ring I think, planning to use a bit of heat on that, but I'm told they usually pop on OK.

More anon...

Thanks all!

[Martin Cox]

Sounds like you've done all the difficult stuff. Putting it all back together should be straightforward by comparison. A good point about the pinch bolt that's worth remembering.

Martin

[ITSv40]

Originally Posted by Martin Cox

Sounds like you've done all the difficult stuff. Putting it all back together should be straightforward by comparison. A good point about the pinch bolt that's worth remembering.

Martin

Yes, a good place to reach when all the things that need to be undone are undone. In the spirit of Haynes: reassemly is a doddle.

[DaveNP]

Originally Posted by ITSv40

... In the spirit of Haynes: reassemly is a doddle.

LOL
I loved the way Haynes would give pages of detailed instructions of how to disassemble something and then conclude with the simple phrase 'Reassembly is the reverse of removal', yeah OK Mr Haynes

[Martin Cox]

..and those pages of detailed instructions were liberally illustrated with photographs of things that were obvious but the pictures you really needed to see were strangely absent.

Martin

[Luxobarge]

Update - I cleaned up the steering knuckle and CV joint as intended, gave it all a quick spray over with copper slip to try and keep the corrosion at bay. Then put it all back together - went very smoothly really, just as your comments above - re-assembly is the reversal of removal, except in this case much easier as I'm not fighting with extremely tight and rusty bolts.

Took it for a test drive and all's good - nice to cruise around without the constant whining/moaning of the worn wheel bearing, it's all silky smooth and quiet now.

However, while the car is off the road and in my garage I'm planning to replace the ABS ring on the other side next, and while I'm in there I thought I'd change the CV boot as they are a bit tired. Boots are on order, should be here in a couple of days. Doing this will be mostly repeating what I've just done, except for removing the actual CV joint. So, not having done this before on this car, can anyone tell me how the CV joint is held onto the drive shaft, and how to remove it? Please tell me it's easy????

Thanks to all as ever,

Cheers

[Dippydog]

Once again according to Haynes[as I've never done this job]you should remove the driveshaft-although whether this is strictly necessary I don't know-then you cut off the gaiter retaining clips and slide the gaiter down the shaft to expose the CV joint.Scoop out as much grease as possible from the joint then expand the joint internal circlip using a screwdriver between the circlip legs.At the same time tap the exposed face of the ball hub with a hammer and drift to separate the joint from the driveshaft.Then clean it all up to check for wear.Unfortunately this is as far as the Haynes manual goes[it's mainly to tell you how to renew the gaiters]as it says later "It is unclear at the time of writing whether the driveshaft joints are available separately or whether a complete driveshaft must be obtained".Once you have it apart you may be able to see how they're attached or others may give more detailed advice.

[ITSv40]

Originally Posted by Dippydog

Once again according to Haynes[as I've never done this job]you should remove the driveshaft-although whether this is strictly necessary I don't know-then you cut off the gaiter retaining clips and slide the gaiter down the shaft to expose the CV joint.Scoop out as much grease as possible from the joint then expand the joint internal circlip using a screwdriver between the circlip legs.At the same time tap the exposed face of the ball hub with a hammer and drift to separate the joint from the driveshaft.Then clean it all up to check for wear.Unfortunately this is as far as the Haynes manual goes[it's mainly to tell you how to renew the gaiters]as it says later "It is unclear at the time of writing whether the driveshaft joints are available separately or whether a complete driveshaft must be obtained".Once you have it apart you may be able to see how they're attached or others may give more detailed advice.

I haven't had to dismantle a X70 driveshaft, but have done several V40 shafts over the years. They are assembled exactly as per the Haynes description above, so no reason to doubt that X70 shafts are very similar.

The biggest issue I find is removing all the grease to actually see the circlip.

The two attachments show the internal circlip on the V40 - once the CVjoint had been cleaned of all grease - and the complete shaft with the new boot fitted. hopefully this will assist.